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Old 01-26-2012, 01:51 AM   #1
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It's going to be loud as hell, but pull off the cat and take it for a quick spin around the block.
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:29 AM   #2
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Default Converter Removal

When I separate the header, a road test may not be necessary. If there is a backup, the relieved pressure may very well allow me to do Wide Open Throttle WOT test without the cut back to idle. If it does then I will have solved a months long mystery. Keeping my fingers crossed. I will post what I find out.
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:30 AM   #3
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Default Over Rich and Dropping of at 2200 rpm.

Dropped the header just enough to ease out the gasket. Did not seem to be crushed.. Starter the car and let it warm a few minutes.
The engine did not start instantly. It required about four tries. Each time I move the switch back to off and waited a second. Each time the attempt to start was better until it kicked off.
It immediately went into warmup mode and after a few minutes dropped back to the normal idle position.
Each time I would accelerate through about 2200 rpm the engine would stop and allow rpm to drop about half before increasing again. Holding the accelerator at the same position would cause the increase and stop again and again.
Very rich condition exist with huge amounts of black smoke coming out the header. I do not believe that there is anything wrong with the exhaust system.
I do wonder about the gasket thickness in that it does not seem to be able to keep the tube from the down pipe sealed when it is bolted up against the header. Just wonder is there is one slightly thicker to stop the leakage. However, the one just removed was installed new at the last install.
Would the be considered a fail safe mode? If so what conditions exist to cause the computer to create this condition.
Would the transmission inputs cause this?
What about the fuel pressure regulation?
Am quite frustrated with not being able to determine what is causing this issue.
Finally I have a slight amount antifreeze dripping down the back side of the block. Just wonder how to make sure the hoses are tight enough.

Any help is appreciated.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:11 AM   #4
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Put the car in diagnostic mode and run it. Watch for any codes (other than 51 which you'll set from pressing the throttle). It does sound quite a bit like limp mode. I can't think of anything pertaining to the transmission that would cause the car to respond like this, especially while stopped. It requires a significant problem for the ECU to enter limp mode... knock sensor fault, significant knock detected, sudden loss of oil pressure signal, faulty ECT, damaged wire harness and so on.

Fuel pressure is a possibility but I don't believe it is very likely... It won't hurt to check the pressure though.

Have you checked the mechanical timing and timing belt already?

I'll look back over this this weekend and see if/what I've missed and let you know if I can think of anything to check next. Worst case scenarios we start back at the top and work through the list.

No, Toyota does not make various thicknesses of exhaust gaskets. The gasket will compress somewhat after initial installation but nothing significant. The exhaust may just be hanging up on the studs in which case releasing the hangers may help.

How to make sure the hoses are tight enough.... hmm... No easy answer I'm afraid. If they're the right size you would just need to be sure the nipple is clean of buildup, corrosion and pitting and then use the proper constant tension clamp that Toyota put on at the factory. If you think the CT clamp has lost some of its elasticity then get another from Toyota. If you've switched to a worm gear hose clamp... well, just tighten until it stops. If it feels like it's too tight and is going to come apart, well, it probably is and there is something wrong with the nipple or the hose.

I know how you feel situations like this suck. You just need to make an actual list of how and what to check and in what order, set aside a few hours on Sat and Sun and hammer through it (TSRM in hand).
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:58 PM   #5
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Default Fuel pump relay resistor is not to spec.

The relay check OK as per the manual... Decide to check values on the fuel pump resistor.... should be 0.70 ohms. Resistance is 1.4 on the 200 scale. Thinking this may be my problem, as it will not allow the pump to spool up as rpm increases.
Is there a method for direct wiring the pump relay to bypass the resistor in order to determine if this is causing the engine problems I am experiencing?
When sourcing a replacement resistor. Is the turbo GTE unit different that of the GE engine type.

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Old 01-28-2012, 02:50 AM   #6
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The resistor is employed at LOWER RPM and load... not where you're experiencing the problems and it's not bypassed by the relay until around 4K at a medium or higher load, IIRC.... Besides, with higher resistance on it you'd be running lean, not rich. Do keep in mind that resistance varies depending on temperature too... but yes, that is a good deal higher than it should be.

You can bypass both relay and resistor by unplugging the large, round, yellow connector and jumpering the Blue wire with black stripe and the black wire with red stripe. Use heavy gauge wire.

The GTE and GE resistor packs should interchange just fine.
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Old 01-28-2012, 05:57 AM   #7
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Default TPS Throttle Position Sensor check..

I ohm ed out the TPS. The throttle stop screw is not touching the rocker and there is about 1/16 inch of distance between the two in the completely closed position. The stop screw is seated against what I believe is the dash-pot diaphragm though.
The value is within speck in the completely closed but I was unable to set the feeler gauge for the two lower settings.
However the WOT Wide Open Throttle position has two reading and one is way out of scale.
I am wondering if this may be a contributing factor.
I expect at this point it would be OK to reinstall the header gasket to be able to operate the engine to establish another code set. I cleared the codes by pulling the DOME 20 fuse.
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