rebulid complete. now more power

[Jay633]

okay so my 7MGTE motor is now rebuilt up to stock spec, it was bored .020 over though not sure if it makes a difference. i put the HKS Stopper Headgasket and arp studs. and it is being powered by Driftmotions 57 trim ct26.. all i need now is fuel injectors and lexus afm and i can boost all i want?? i want to reach anywhere from 350-500 to spank supercharged stangs..

[cre]

No you can't just boost all you want. The ECU cuts fuel once measured airflow passes a certain value. The reason the Lex AFM mod works is because the bypass channel (the section which lets a certain amount of air pass unmetered) is larger and so the ECU thinks less air is coming in than really is. You'll still be capped at the same volume of air. You'll still make better use of that air though with the cooler intake charge and will see some benefit there (you'd also benefit from an intercooler upgrade). Simply put though you'll be making the same power at 12psi with your setup as someone with a stock CT-26 running 16psi. Add a fuel controller and an adjustable FPR to the equation and you'll be able to squeeze even more out of it... you could forget the Lex AFM in that case as the fuel controller serves the same purpose but it will require tuning. Either way you should be north of 350 but with the Lex probably below 400.

[Jay633]

Okay. So exactly what do I need to be able to tune the car and any links on how to tune the car? Im lost with all the options or suggestions I.e . Piggyback, standalone, maps, Maft pro I am very lost please help

[Jay633]

okay ive been reading and new question, i plan on being 350-500 so what would best suit my car a standalone or piggyback?

[jdmman2011]

Originally Posted by Jay633

okay ive been reading and new question, i plan on being 350-500 so what would best suit my car a standalone or piggyback?

I have a stand alone and a fuel managment running pushed 690 to the rear wheels running large t5 plus a 150shot of nos to pass the spool.

[cre]

Originally Posted by jdmman2011

I have a stand alone and a fuel managment running pushed 690 to the rear wheels running large t5 plus a 150shot of nos to pass the spool.

Why on Earth would you run a stand alone EMS AND a fuel controller?





Jay, it depends on what you're looking for in the end. While a basic fuel controller will do what you need it doesn't offer the fine control over other functions such as ignition timing or boost control but most do however have a lot of support (DIY and via performance shops) and generally have a small learning curve.

I really like the complete control offered by stand alone EMS's but they have much steeper learning curves, you have to tweak most settings if you want to get the most out of it (a basic preprogrammed setup file from someone else's car won't be fine tuned for yours and you'll lose potential power) The hardware is much more expensive and it's typically more expensive if you end up having a shop tune it than a more basic fuel controller. An additional benefit is the ability to install a different type of air flow meter... something less restrictive like a large GM MAF or something with no restriction such as a MAP/IAT (aka speed/density) setup; The MAFT Pro does this as well.

The MAFT Pro is a nice middle ground between the two.... It offers an obscene amount of control but still piggybacks to the stock TCCS. It costs half of what you can expect to pay for a stand alone too... BUT it has a steep learning curve and getting it to play completely nice with the TCCS can be trying at times. It offers wide band controller integration and timing and boost control which bring it to the level of stand alone functionality. I don't however recommend this system for newbies and shop support is spotty at best in most areas. As mentioned previously this system also allows you to use different types of air flow metering setups.

If you're planning on doing it yourself and have no tuning experience I'd have to recommend starting with a SAFC II or Neo and later sell it off and upgrade after you've got more experience. Don't forget you'll also need a wide band O2 sensor; I recommend the Innovate Motorsports LC-1.

[jdmman2011]

Long story short 30,000 on a motor is not cheap i want to see what the car is doing all the time just with a stand alone wont cut it when u want to push 150 shot of nos.

[cre]

Why don't you share all the specifics with the rest of the class? That kind of was the point of Jay's post... Not just to give you somewhere to brag.





Must be summer...

[jdmman2011]

Originally Posted by cre

Why don't you share all the specifics with the rest of the class? That kind of was the point of Jay's post... Not just to give you somewhere to brag.





Must be summer...

i

I will i will have specs and pictures here soon to show everyone. Im not braging about it, everybody has there own setup, and does what they like to do. Just to let everyone know this is my 6th bulid and it took me a lot of research a 500hp motor to a 700hp motor is not the same everything changes to idle and fuel issues. One thing these motors after 500 if not bulit correctly they will crank walk or exploded due to these motors run hot. Theres a lot more but to keep a long story short im still learning ive been in the game since ive been 15.

[jdmman2011]

Sorry for the mess at the moment im parting the car out so its kinda like a mess.