Manual transmission, INsTALL(jacking it up)
 

so i guess my old thread is old or no longer aactive...
i need help on jacking up my manual transmission and bolting it on...
what do i do first? ETC.....
please help out..
i need this car up and running by next week, i start college! :bouncy::eek2:

I tried doin mine on my 1j without pulling the motor and....... spent 3hrs getting no where so I spent the next 1.5 hrs pulling the motor then bolting it to the belhousing (after the ailment tool) then 2.5 to swap it back in. All in all. I wish I would of pulled the motor and trans in the first place would have been a hell of a lot easier and faster then messing around trying to do it with motor installed!

its in my garage, i dont have a cherry picker for the motor or even the knowledge to take the motor out.
i got it jacked up but the exhaust is in my way, and i cant unbolt it becuz its welded on there. any other way i can get it on without pulling the motor, and getting the front peice of the exhaust off? thankks

i was thinking of just taking off my whole exhaust off, (manifold and front half[first cat]) should i do that or is ther another way?

id say your easiest bet now is to remove the exhaust manifold and the piping at the next soonest point. cant remember how the exhaust routes on mk3's...its been too long since i had mine.

yeah im going to do that.. and maybe replace my first cat with a newer one

I agree with those guys. I had to drop my tranny a couple times to get my engine in and replace the flywheel and was a pain in the @$$! But if you dont have a cherry picker and dont want to learn how to remove your engine that's fine, better that way though.

Remove your exhaust, manifold to cat, so that it is not in the way of jacking up the tranny.
you will need to loosen the engine main bolts on the engine mounts to tilt the engine back so you can put the bolts on the tranny... mind you that it's a real pain in the @$$ since you will need 5-6 extensions and a 14mm long socket and feel and guess if the socket is on the bolt and tighten. Also you might scratch your flywheel a bit when jacking it up. you will need to jack up a bit then move forward and repeat til the bellhousing is on the back of the engine.

Like I said, it was a pain in the @$$! and that was with an extra set of hands.

got my tranny in, but i need to get some questions answered.. (NOTE THIS IS AN AUTO TO MANUAL TRANNY SWAP)
heres pics to help with my questions...
question 1 :
how do i know if my starter is on right?
idk how to put it back on basically...

question 2 :
where do i locate the neutral start switch?
and how do i bypass it?

question 3 :
the bolts on the left are my starter bolts, the one on the right is my bellhousing bolt, why is my bellhousing look so tiny? will this work?
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...um/photo-7.jpg

question 4 :
my automagic trans mount i used for the manual trans, and this is the only i could have bolted it up,
is this okay?
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo2-6.jpg
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo3-4.jpg

question 5 :
what golden washers are these? i assume there for my driveshaft, u bearing joint thingy, but idk forsure.http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo5-1.jpg
these are the bolts with the golden washers on them
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...um/photo-8.jpg

question 6 :where do i hook these lines up at? or do i even need them for my manual transmission?
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo4-1.jpg

oh and number 7 is how should the shifter be sitting inside my car, where the shifter goes its sticking out of the hole and im afraid that this is hold my engine tilted still.. i will post a pic in a bit on this question.

those are my questions, i really need them answered to the best of your abilities, thank you guys in advance...i appreciate all the help you guys gave me..
P.S my speedo cable. i was actually able to connect it which i thought was weird becuz i was told that it wouldnt work.

Ok here we go..... the speedo cable I have never had trouble hooking up and workin. All though they are technically different lengths.

They neutral switch some will recommends pulling the actual switch out and locking it in park. Myself I always Jus cut the switch wires ( don't quote me but I'm almost positive they are black with white and black with blue) I Jus cut and splice the two together so I don't have to hide that big switch. Never had any problems.

The starer really only goes in one way! Don't forget to hook up the little signal wore on top of starter.

The bolts you showed look to be proper length and size. The starer takes a lot of torque to turn the motor over.

and the gold washers I haven seen myself. but I would guess they are being used like you said on the driveline carrier bearing!

hope this helps!

Do you only have two of the golden washers?? They look like they go to the tranny-engine mounts but they could be the two bolts that hold up the drive shaft in the center.

The bellhousing bolts barelymake it out of the bellhousing, maybe 4 or 5 threads..so idk

Where is the neutral start switch?! Lol,
and the starter, what do I hook up, you said not to forget to connect ???(sorry I'm doing this from my iPhone)

and what about my trans mount? Is that okay?

ok, well id be wary of that transmission mount, but i cant tell if you have a full crossmember or just an ear that bolts to a tranny ear. if thats the case, id be careful. that ear could break under load and be a real mess. get a proper mount front a junk yard or see about having one made.

the bellhousing/starter bolts look right, but they are different lengths. so its a good idea to keep them in order...as that hasnt been done, best thing to assume is the starter bolts will be longer cuz they have to go thru the bellhousing and the starter, and should have a nut on the back side. starter only fits one way too.

do you have a repair manual? u need to get one and read thru some of these sections, or read the tsrm thats posted on this site.

i was told that the auto matic transmission mount worked, unless my trans isnt sitting right..
ima pick up a new set of bellhousing bolts just to be safe...

heres a pic of the shifter part\
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...um/photo-9.jpg
i know this is sitting right, well its has to be but my worry is this

i was told that when i put this tranny in, i would have to cut out a piece of my car to shift into 2, 4 and reverse.. that being said i was also told that the automatic mount would work... idk, forsure... if the shifter is seated properly then i have to get the manual trans mount.. so is this proper or not?

well the shifter looks to be in the proper spot. install the shifter and row through the gears, that will tell you if you need to modify the trans tunnel.

the mount, like i said, i cant see clearly, and last time i was under a 7m powered car, i did it all by feel.

id make sure you have a pretty decent mount, cuz one bolt to an ear tab on the tranny doesnt seem like enough.

looks like im gonna go and get a new mount lol,
i dont wanna take any chances, my other things i need is the wiring for the neutral start switch? anyone? lol what to do there? or where its even at?

and the other, how do i bleed my clutch??

bleeding the clutch is fairly pain free. first fill the reservoir with fluid, then (this must be done with a buddy) pump the clutch 2-3 times and hold the peddle down. have someone or urself, whoevers under the car, open the bleeder nipple just for a second then quickly close. u want to have the fluid pressurized out of the line, but not completely lose pressure, otherwise you can suck air back into the line. also, dont take pressure off the peddle while the nipple is open, or air will go back in. do this several times, keepin the reservoir topped off, until you have no more air bubbles coming out of the bleeder nipple.

its takes a lil finesse, but its a fairly simple operation once you do it some.

ur on ur own with the switch unfortunately :/ i dont deal with auto conversions so i wouldnt know lol.

haha i know somebody in here knows where the switch is at and how to bypass it,
lol
i think there just annoyed with the question...
soo anyone else?

and yeah i need to get the bellhousing bolts, the right drive shaft cuz apparently mines from an mk2, and the right trans mount first before i start with the clutch, i really messed up with the driveshaft -.-
dayummm, car was gonna be running soon too.

The neutral start switch itself is on the automatic transmission on the passenger side. It is the big metal box with a bunch of wires running to it.

You can leave it plugged in with it set in "park" or "neutral" and secure it somewhere (the easy fix, IMO the least desirable)

You can remove the switch and place a jumper wire in the wiring harness electrical connector. I believe you just have to place a jumper between the 2 large wires (still an easy fix, probably the most common method)

You can remove the switch and run an extension from the harness to a clutch safety switch. I don't know if the factory 5 spd switch will work or not, but you would just need an on/off switch that you can attach to the clutch pedal. That way when you press the clutch, you create the "jumper" as mentioned above. The important (and safe) consideration is that when you let go of the clutch, you wouldn't be able to start the car (nobody accidentally starting in gear)

Oh, and I don't know if anyone posted about them yet; the 2 metal lines that used to connect to the automatic transmission, you can get rid of them. They connect to the radiator (they were the cooling lines for the transmission). Be careful when removing them, it's likely that there is still a bit of ATF in the lines and that stuff's real nasty if it gets on clothes or anything

good example of why you should bag your bolts with labels...

the washers should be for trans mount, to chassis.

the safty switch is located on the shifter of your auto, simply just disconnect it from the auto and plug it into your harness, and move it to the park position. i usually just cram it up with the clutch master cylinder.

and dam... if you got that tranny on without pulling the engine I AM impressed, because you have just reached a level of patience i will never get.

it is probly faster to pull the engine though, renting a cherry picker is not much, probly 30 bucks a day.

lol, agreed on the tranny removal. ive only dont that on a couple cars, and it was a pain most of the time. the camaro i had i could have the tranny out, new clutch and back in ready to drive in about 2 hours. did it three damn times...what can i say? i have a lead foot and oem clutches just dont suffice.

Attachment 3900
this is the switch
hope it helps

lol takin out the 7m ait that bad, it just looks liek this haha

Attachment 3902

it was a lot of BS! and three days of cussing...
but yeah that piling of crap is in and ready to run..

@btwilson, the nuetral start switch, alll i do is take it off and connect the wires, put it in park and put it somewhere an it will run?
i dont need to connect anything to it or "bypass" anything?

wait wait wait,
i take that off and i do what?! lol
im really lost:rolleyes2

i would have but i didnt take out the tranny, a shop did it for me for free, so im peicing it together..

will the bellhousing bolts for the automatic work with the manual or are they to short?

If you take the neutral safety switch off the car, you just put a jumper wire in the electrical plug (on the wiring harness, not the switch side). You'll need to find out for sure which 2 wires get connected by the jumper wire, but I believe it's the 2 large ones (should be on their own connector). Since the switch is no longer connected to the car, you don't have to do anything else with it.

Doing this method will tell the ECU that you are in Park all the time, so you will be able to start in gear. SO be careful.


EDIT: If I'm reading the TEWD correctly, it looks like the 2 wires that you connect with the jumper are a Black/White wire with a Black/Blue wire

i get the jumping the wire part, but is that on the car? or on the switch it self?
the switch is on the auto tranny right now.. i put thaT in park then take off the switch right? and i connect the wires together like as if it was on the auto tranny still? then i place the switch somewhere so its not in the way...?
i get what your saying kinda.... i got alot on my mind... i gotta find this driveshaft in 2 days and get this car running by next week, im starting college... so bare with me....

can someone help me with a driveshaft?
whether you have one(87 w58 transmission)
or know what i can do to get one..
i have 50$ left and need this,(igot one from an 84 celica supra and its too short :stickpoke)
so anyone can you helpp?

bump...
and the best way to and how to do the nuetral switch

can you guys help me?......

the help has been posted already. the switch wires that need to be jumped are on the car, part of the wiring harness itself. driveshaft, check the local pick n pull yards, or you may have to pay some coin to have one made. usually 80-100 bux to have one shortened and balanced by a machinist.

except it needs to be longer, the automagic, is longer than the w58, so the drive shaft for a auto is shorter. the dshaft for the w58 is longer.

thanks canadian, so with that info, it will have to be longer. same case then, go to the pick n pull, and find a long driveshafter from a pickup, preferably a full size pickup, with a diesel and in the 90s if you can find it.

then you can get a nice aluminum shaft thats stronger than stock and lighter, freeing up a couple hp. and it wont rust to hell. plus, most machinist rates are cheaper when dealing with aluminum, at least around here.

my DS for my camaro cost me 95 bux to have shortened, welded and balanced, it was from a 99 f350 superduty, 3.5 inch aluminum. weighed like 6 lbs or so, i cant remember but it was waaaay lighter than the stock steel one.:bigthumb:

thank you for that.. i might do that to the drive shaft..
but my question for the switch is, do i even need to take the nuetral switch off the automagic or can i just jump the wires on the harness and do nothing at all with the switch???
thats what i really needed to know and beg for help... the driveshaft maybe ok.
my transmission isnt sitting right so when i get it right it may acually workk

i would say you can take the switch out and jump the wires themselves. or leave the switch in and jump them. as long as they are jumped.

see thats what confuses me...
im not jumping the wires on the switch, or am i on the car?

and guys im still looking for the driveshaft, i ONLY have like 65$ left,
is there any driveshafts that are link up?
like an automagic cressida? manual CRessida, and so what year?
things like that

Have you even talked to a driveshaft company? Have you confirmed that the front half of your MKII driveshaft with the rear half of your MKIII driveshaft won't work?

What junkyards have you tried? It's a bit of a drive, but the Pick a Part in Chula Vista has always had a couple of 5 spd MKIII's when I've gone there, and they charge $35 (plus $5 core) for 2-piece driveshafts.


Take the neutral switch off of the transmission. Disconnect the switch (and it's ~2' worth of wiring) from the engine wiring harness. Place the switch in a box. Tape the box up. Mail it to Hong Kong. You don't need it. Place your jumper wire in the engine wiring harness connector that your neutral switch USED TO connect to.

hahaha thank you, ima make a kill switch...
as for the drive shaft i got, i need to modify the back flange as it doesnt bolt directly to the end peice or floor board... after that im back on the dam road...
also my mechanic said tht i can go to ace hardware and buy londer bolts for the bellhousing instead of spending more money for (sturdier more "reliable" and expensive bellhousing bolts) do you think thats ok?