should work

thats what i said said, but when people say should there not so confident about it..
i just think that all bolts are heat treated so that wont be a problem there, the only thing is that its not a high grade of metall..

ok, heres a better answer. if you go to a hardware store to get bellhousing bolts, just make sure to get grade 8. no they wont be cheap, but they wont break either. you will strip out any threads long before they could break.

more reassuring? :bigthumb:

I didn't meen it to be rude or anything, I did get grade 8 becuz I knew it needed to be strong..
I'm getting my drive shaft cut and welded tomorrow, hopefully soon I can get it on the road, I just gotta get the top bellhousing bolts on and tightened(proally a dumb question, but do they really need to be on there?) haha Gotta get the driveshaft on the car and jump those wires!

I also got the tranny rebuilt, I'm going to put 40w oil in there for quite awhile, atleast 6 months..but how much do I put in of that? 2.5 quarts? Or is it more? And when should I actually put in 70 weight oil in? Like it's originally called for.. Thanks :P

no offense taken, just wanted to get my point across lol.

i wouldnt run a lightweight oil then switch to a higher weight. just run the standard and then change it out for fresh oil after about 5k miles. or if your rebuilder had a break-in plan to follow, go with that.

he didnt really have a break in plan.. im gonna go by what the manual says..
to jump the switch, i just cut the wires stripp them and put them together?

hmm, have to read up on that part in my haynes. never had a manual suggest different weight oils and change intervals like that. normally since theres no combustion cycle and deposits to soak into the oil, it doesnt need changing. i guess due to initial wear you could have a small amount of metal particulate, but not enough to cause a problem the magnetic drain plug cant contain. but whatever the manual says

as for the wires, yep that sounds right. makes a constant circtuit so the car thinks its in neutral and will idle when off throttle or while sitting.

i went to kragens today to check the prices on oil, they ran my car into the computer and said it was 70w
is this true? i would assume so but just double checking...

EDIT: i checked TEWD and i have no clue what wires to jump?? HELP i remember BTWILSON said it was blue and black or something... idk exactly..

80w90, i prefer either Valvoline full synthetic 75w90 gear oil or Royal Purple gear oil.

GL-4 or GL-5 rated is recommended.

these lines

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo4-1.jpg

connect to these hoses

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo-10.jpg

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo2-7.jpg

i dont need these lines like BTWILSON said but if i disconnect them, wouldnt coolant leak out of them continuously?
car running or not?

ok forsure.. i do want synthetic definately...

i got everything on and back together just gonna jump the wires tomorrow and take those hoses off (posted a pic i need help with that)
and then put oil in and should be on the road... :D

no. they run to a cooler inside the radiator that is sealed off from the rest of the radiator. if it worries you you can plug them, just get some pipe plugs from the hardware store.

but no, they are not necessary and they do not need to be plugged.

solved my worries haha
i can take the flexible tube off to right?

cant you get a jumper wire from autozone or radio shack with male connectors at both ends(or female idk) to jump the neutral switch?
or do i have to cut them and ssplice it together...
i know i ask this question alot but im just trying to get it done quickly and safely..

yes you can take the flexible lines off. get some vacuum plugs (kit at autozone is like 2 bux) if the rad doesnt have threaded holes, and just put them over the bungs if it worries you.

just get some lengths of wire and some connectors from autozone and crimp it together yourself. its pretty easy. youll prolly be into it for like 5 bux altogether at autozone or any other chain parts store.

see i knew i could do that haha.
saves me the trouble just not the money -.-
i swear all this work and if i blow this engine ima be pissed! haha

everything is running, but my clutch doesnt fully ingage...
and or disengage...
i understand theres air in the line but
something doesnt feel right
the spring pops the pedal back and forth
if i adjust the free play the pedal just falls to the floor..
idk what to do

get the clutch properly bled then come back and let us know what its doing. improperly bled clutches suck and they make everything feel wrong especially with air in the line.

i was talking to #btwilson and he asked if i bench bled the master cylinder
which i did not do,
the system when i would bleed it would have a full stream come out but for some reason it still happens...
ima bench bleed both my master and slave cylinder to see if that solves it..

i did bleed it properly just didnt know i needed to prime the master cylinder before i hooked it up and bled the system like normal

whats this?

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo3-5.jpg

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo-11.jpg

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo2-8.jpg

lol i over filled my trans mostlikely cuz i wasnt exact on the amount
5.2 pints, 2.6 quarts

so i put three quarts in thinking it may have been wrong info...
car wasnt all to level but it was level enough to get a reading..

so i went and bled my clutch and got pissed at the free play that i had so i decided to test drive it,
it was alil hard to get into first and second but the rest were smooth sailing..
then i park in my drive way and trans started leaking at the tail shaft out of the driveshaft (tail shaft right?)
(this is where i knew i over filled it) so yada and whatever car runs fine but gott tweak the clutch...
i went to my gf house, clutch was still alil soft and kinda hard to shift but i got there and parked, but transmission started leaking again... soo
i just let it leak, becuz i knew i put to much in. before i drove home i pulled my carpet back and was able to use the clutch correctly( still gotta tweak it, i cant drive around with my carpet back...any ideas of to whats wrong?) i get home and park, and it started leaking again, but not as much as at my gfs house.. so i pull into my garage to where its level and the trans is fine, no leaking but just dripping the excess off the mount..
now im sitting down thinking..
the part in the pics, my mechanic said i dont need it and that if i wanted to i can put it in to be safe... it goes in wear my driveshaft goes, im starting to think that it is needed OR somewhat needed... i have no clue what it is..
i just know its a retainer of some sort...
now that you know my story of what happen today about my car, can you give me some insight of what this is and if its needed?
IM STARTING TO THINK IT IS! :(

ok. i hate to be mean, but you need to stop driving your car with just base knowledge slammed at it. the seal you have in your pics is prolly a rear tranny seal, and from the sound of it youve been puking fluid out of it. you obviously overfilled it, and thats where all the leaks have been coming from..

just slow down and stop jumping the gun. you need to give us all more info on whats goin on than what youve been doing, cuz were only getting half the story.

so, u over filled..what else. just take it slow and explain whats happening.

i put transmission fluid in.
tried bleeding it and didnt work..
then tried a "Bench bleed" on my master cylinder and it worked alil just gotta adjust it and get it perfectly bled..i did that so i can shift to get it to my shop(a mile up the street)
tomorrow regardless, im taking it to the shop to have my mechanic properly bleed my system...
like i just said when i pulled back my carpet i was able to used the clutch properly because it fully disengaged, SO I NEED TO ADJUST IT, SO ITS LIKE ITS SPOSE TO BE.

so back to the tranny, i put 3 quarts in, i know that is an over fill... so that goes to why im leaking...
i need to know if that "seal" is needed in my trans and if i can drive without it, to get my clutch bled properly..or even drive without it or what the heck it is and for. i dont mind going back under the car and replacing it but i need to know what it is, and if its needed or not.


and like i said, it only leaks after driving it..
idk why(besides overfill)

" i hate to be mean, but you need to stop driving your car with just base knowledge slammed at it"
what do you meen by that?

i mean stop trying to drive it till u have gone through a basic mechanical checklist of things that need to be fixed. otherwise youll ruin something and have to do this all over again.

i.e.-your clutch system needs a proper bleed.

you also need to trim your carpet or trans tunnel some to get full shifter travel, as that sounds like whats stopping you from getting it into gear properly.

you also probably need to replace the output shaft seal on the tranny if its constantly puking fluid out after driving. its building up pressure inside the tranny and forcing fluid out.

my question is, why did you overfill the tranny to begin with?

so. get the clutch system figured out. theres only a few parts to it that can go bad. master cyl, slave cyl, hydraulic line. check any and all for leaks, and if it comes down to it, replace them. slave cyls go out all the time, so check there if its not new. master cyls are less common but ive had them go too.

next, put a new rear seal on the tranny and take the fill plug out of the side of the tranny and let it drain till the fluid is leveled off (be on a flat, level piece of ground for this).

adjust/trim your carpet/trans tunnel so you get proper shifter throw.

after youve done all that, check back.

MasteR cylinder is brand new as well as the slave, the lines however aren't, should I replace the hardlines?

if they are leaking. if not then dont worry bout them. the soft line that goes from the hardline to the slave would be a good idea to replace.

im using a supra soft line and a cressida hardline...
ima swap the both out for the right ones(NEW SLAVE LINE)
i cut my carpet back so i can shift like im spose to lol
it fully disengages so it was like i didnt have enough room...

i went ahead and put the seal in the tranny for precaution, and im still leaking..
so i think i did overfill ALOT!
any ideas on what to do?
i was thinking of draining alil bit of oil out(checking the level before i do that..)
good idea?
anything else

my turn signals dont work either!
help i need those lol
tired of sticking my dam hand out the window!

Yeah. Just do it how 87hilux7mge said.


As for your turn signals, check fuses and make sure your hazard light switch is hooked up

What did he say to do?
Replace te seal?
I'll check the forums again lol

and my hazards work, but my turn signals don't

the retainer or seal,
i need to replace it
i checked the tsrm and dont know where to look..
anyone have the proper name for this and the product number?
i need to replace asap
and also
how to replace it?
please and thank you

(if you can point me to the how to on the tsrm then thatll be ok to)

i bought the seal... how do i replace it ?

If u over filled it and the seals were working right and the shaft was in right It would not leak

i replaced the seal... fixed
the turn signals...fixed
clutch... fixed

now the reverse lights,
can anyone confirm the wires i gotta splice into to get my reverse lights working?
i rthink its orange and blue?

The 2 wire colors (at least for an 89) are Yellow and Red/Black. EDIT: I just looked at the harness I have for an 87 N/A Auto, and it's the same colors. You can't just splice the wires together, otherwise your reverse lights will always be on. The page for the TEWD is here.

You need to extend these wires from the engine wiring harness so that they will reach the backup light switch on the manual transmission. If I'm reading the TEWD correctly, the plug on the wiring harness that feeds the signal to the transmission should be connector "A" (located at the bottom of the page linked). The plug that receives the signal from the transmission on your wiring harness is connector "B". The yellow wire is pin 5 in connector A (referred to as A5), red/black wire is B1.

On your manual transmission is a small 2-pin connector (labeled as "C" on the TEWD). You want to connect A5 with C2, and B1 with C1. Once again, the TEWD shows which pin is which at the bottom of the linked page.

After doing this, your backup lights should work as designed.




Now I just hope all that makes sense lol

this all makes perfect sense haha

quick question..
i know my rpms are gonna be all messed up but.. how will my gas mileage be affected?
will it get worse? seems like gas is being killed haha

also, on the freeway i normally would cruise at 80mph but my car is going 80mph @3500 rpms so now i cruise at 75mph @3000 rpms
is that normal for these cars.?
again i know the rpms will be off... and if thats way off how can i correct it?

also the shifting feels weird..
like its rough sometimes..
lol
idk how to explain im just thinking its alil hard to get through gears becuz its a rebuilt trans..
is that it?

That sounds right for a N/A 5 speed. That's about where mine is at anyway

your shifter bushings may just be worn out, or non existant.
check out on celicasupra.com or at a toyota dealer for new bushings

bushings like this?
http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmi...t-lever-socket

and this

http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmi...ver-ball-seats

Yeah, those are the ones that you needed to get for that tranny and your shifter.

Here are the Toyota part numbers:

Shift lever seat bushing:
33505-35020

Shift lever bushing:
33548-31010

You can buy them direct from Toyota, or there are a number of websites you can buy genuine parts for less, such as toyotapartscheap.com

can probly get the bushings cheaper from celicasupra.com

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...ft-Bushing-Kit