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Old 04-05-2011, 08:42 PM   #21
El_supracabra
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ouch.... LOL

anyways...

I dont ever remember saying "my cams dont line up"....because they do. perfectly. I triple checked my valve timing, AND my ignition timing.

I really dont appreciate "my88isgreat" implying that I didnt "read the book".
so.... not to mention that he said "gates racing is in on it too" does that mean they built your engine for you? cuz i built mine all by myself.

Thanks CRE for the useful information. I swapped out the fuel pump relay and resistor with another one and it didnt change anything. I also put a jumper wire on the TPS connector and checked my fuel cut. according to the TSRM (that i actually read ;-) my fuel cut should be at 1800 then return at 1200. My actual fuel cut is at about 2400 and returns at about 1900. This is actually the only thing i can find "wrong" with the car.

advice?

oh and how do you bypass the relay? by connecting a jumper between +B and PR on the fuel pump relay connector? thanks!!
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:25 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El_supracabra View Post
not to mention that he said "gates racing is in on it too" does that mean they built your engine for you?
Yes they did! thanks for asking!
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Old 06-04-2022, 05:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 907mge View Post
The 7mge is a non interferance motor to begin with, so no. The only thing it will do is raise the compression a bit.
Wrong...the cam timing will be retarded because the cam cog will be closer to the crank cog and will roll CCW a smidge. You can only mill an OHC about .02mm before you need to cut and use a "head saver" shim. these are usually .020" an allow a .020 cut on the head or block to preserve factory valve timing.
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Old 06-04-2022, 07:18 PM   #24
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Here are some photos of a uncut and a cut head. The more you cut a head the flatter that rounded part under the thermostat standpipe connection gets. It's something to look for when buying a head. I had my head and block resurfaced and ended up using an old school metal shim gasket under the Toyota factory gasket. I sprayed the bottom of the shim gasket That contacts the block with Prematex copper spray. After 7 years and 35K miles, I haven't had any issues. Alternatively, you could use a thicker stacked metal head gasket alone but you really need to prepare the surfaces first. Here is a link to a company that can supply most any thickness of shim gasket you want. I wouldn't go of more than 0.040" though. It's been discussed in other forums that a 0.020" cut is a small fraction of a degree out of timing. The Toyota manual allows 0.010 but doesn't say anything more than that.

Innovative machine & supply: https://innomach.com/cylinder-head-shims
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Last edited by Bru; 06-04-2022 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 06-06-2022, 03:03 AM   #25
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WOW! Resurrected after over 11 YEARS!?!
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