Transmission rant, help! Need advice or anything, asap
 

well recently, i went to go change my transmission fluid,
did all the work to change it. drove it home and about an hour later there was transmission fluid all over the ground..
so immediately i squeeazed my way under the car and found out that a bolt broke off and 2 bolts were loose. my bad right? didnt check them all close enough:mad:
the next day i take it back to the shop and put it on the hoist, the mechanic told me that i need to tap it out. (i told him i should reverse tap it cuz it would be easier, and he said no it wont work....so i didnt argue and just did it his way)
so i started drilling into the bolt so i can tap it out, the mechanic came back to check on what i was doing and he said i drilled crooked so now he had to widen the hole to tap it and widen it to get another bolt in... he does that, puts the pan back on and i tighten all the bolts and lower the hoist. i start my car and transmission fluid is spraying out, (like it was connected to a pressure hose) so i leave it on the hoist and let it go. i talk to him on the phone and ask why oil is spraying everywhere and he says i drilled into the transmission. a month later i tow it home. and at this point im wondering why its leaking, like i get into depth and search for the spot its leaking from. immediately when i get under the car and i look above the new bolt that he tapped and put in, and i see a hole right above it.. i look closely and see that its bigger than the drill i was using to drill out the bolt in the first place. me and my friend(the mechanics son) are trying to figure out why this hole is so big.... it turns out, by further looking into it, when the mechanic widen the hole and threaded it to make a bolt fit he drilled into the transmission:rant: when the car starts the fluid just sprays out of that hole.. theres is my story on my transmission......:weak:

the reason i told you that is becuz it helps me explain why im asking this question....

im to the point where i need to get my car running i got school, work and college are coming very quick, and there are threee daily driver for one car..when this problem first happened i wanted to do a manual swap.. well idk if thats gonna happen becuz i dont know a single thing about taking an auto trans out and putting the clutch kit in a new manual trans, and then bolting the manual one back up to the engine...

my question is this...
i dont know much about how to take the transmission off, how do i go about doing that?
second, how do i go about installing a new clutch kit in a manual trans and bolting that up?
can i do it at home in my garage... well i know i can but the real question is
can a person with no transmission replacment experience do this?
thanks in advance and thanks for listening to my rant also :rofl:

PS please dont tell me that i need to look in the forums for a how to do on this stuff..i did and nothin comes up on it, none like a in depth or a how to.. just some things like "...you gotta unbolt the bolts fromt the engine.." i know theres more to that... please im in a deep situation and i really need your guys' help. please help me out the best you can.
thanks to all..

and if you think i should take another route, please advise on that,
some pics of the hole

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...lbum/photo.jpg

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...bum/photo2.jpg

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...bum/photo3.jpg

the pics are as best as i can get...

before anyone yells at me i found a post with it
uhm question

is it still the same or basically the same for an auto trans?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=MT&P=4

and someone with no experience for installing a clutch kit ain a manual trans can it be possible for me too?

still didnt find a removal for automatic, only manualll

Here is the how to for the auto and to do the 5speed swap you need.
•master
•slave
•lines between the master and slave
•clutch pedal
•shifter
•Transmission
•front part of drive shaft
•flywheel
•clutch and pressure plate
And a few other parts that I can't think of.

Also if you do a R154 swap get all the part that match That transmission and the same if u do the w58.

You also need to replace your wiring harness since your's is an auto you will need a manual, unless you like to bypass and splice a shit ton of wires. but easier to replace the harness for a manual. also get the same year as your car.

you're also better putting it up on a lift to get under it and take the 8 bolts off. personal experience of being under a car and taking it off was a pain.

not sure what tranny you're going to put it, but whatever one you get get the flywheel and clutch for that tranny, they have different bolts holes and wont match if you get two different ones. like if you get a w58 flywheel wont work with the R154, not sure if you didnt know that.

Get Redline tranny fluid, heard it was the best but I'm using Royal Purple and works pretty well for me, shifts like butter =]

im assuming its plausible for me to do it on my own.
with no experience,
i located all the parts just not sure if i wanna do it yet, plus i only have 550 $

If you have the money might as well get the parts that you already found and have for them. getting the wiring harness and transmission are hard to find. The other stuff are easy though.

Also if you have a buddy or two to help it will make things a lot easier. The 4 top bolts are a pain in the @$$ since you have to unbolt the tranny and let it tilt all the way down and use 5-6 extensions to be able to turn them a lot.

The wire harness requires very little modification, not at all worth trying to find a good m/t harness IMHO.

i need help making a decision...

i need my car in about week and a half.

should i just replace the auto tranny with a used one(auto)?
or should i go ahead and do the manual swap? (i really want it manual)
i just dont wanna screw my self over


i have a transmission(w58) at a yard that was in a wreck and can get a oem clutch kit for 120.00
that together is around 420.00 and i have around 520.00

money wise the swap looks feasible.. im just afraid im going to ruin my manual trans, or my car..
and also
im doing this in my garage,
where do i jack up my car at?
where i have it now gives me lil room to work.. and how high?

thanks.. cre i didnt think i needed a M/T wiring harness... also what do i modd on it? or what do you mean by that?

I'm not going to tell you what you should or shouldn't do.... that's a matter of preference.

The wiring is minimal, I'll have to go over the diagrams but from what I recall you simply wire the NSW wiring to the clutch switch and I think you may have to change one wire at the circuit opening relay or the EFI main relay.

Pulling the transmission without a pit or lift SUCKS. You'll want a transmission jack and the car up at least 2' all the way around. Plan on loosening the motor mounts disconnecting some of the stuff running to the engine so you can tip it for easier access to the bolts at the top of the bell housing.

yeah i figured, well im eventually gonna swap it,
as for right now, i put jb weld on it and hopefully itll hold.. till i get the time to do the swap

Any chance of some better pictures of the damage that needs to be repaired? There's probably a couple MUCH better fixes available. Id the hole in the pan itself?

i dont have a camera and the first gen iphone has a peice o sh** camera..

i put jb weld on it.. and let it dry overnight.. today i put tranny fluid in and jump the car,
no tranny fluid spraying! the real test is tomorrow when i drive it and let the tranny heat up a bit to see if it blows the weld!:uh:

good so far,
one quick question.. i was talking to #btwilson86 when i bought a tranny from him.
i asked about what clutch kit to get.. oem or like a stage 1 or 2
he said oem and i agree since its cheaper, but what do you guys think?

If it's accessible enough to get JB weld on it couldn't you get someone to weld it? Is the hole in the pan or the housing? Aluminum or steel?

The stock clutch will get you pretty far, for mild builds a new OEM (not OEM spec generic crap though) will hold up fine. If you want to step things up from there a bit a higher load pressure plate will help a lot. In a W58 I wouldn't bother with anything more.

The reason I jb welded it was becuz I didn't want to take the tranny out, I drove it today abd the tranny still leaked so it's coming out to get fixed soon..I want it manual sooo I'm swapping it, I don't know what clutch kit to get, and where to find the fly wheel bolts...
Can you test a transmission? To see if it's usable?

All you can do without pulling it is to test for play at the shifter and at the input and output shafts, both axial and radial... you'll need a special gauge for this. Also making sure it rotates in an all gears and inspect the transmission fluid.... Best bet is to tear it down though.

Just get the fasteners from Toyota, they're cheap enough.

If your power goals are under 350-400 (which with a W58 they better be) I'd just buy a stock clutch disc, get the flywheel resurfaced (an absolute MUST) or get a lightweight flywheel, and a higher pressure pressure plate from somewhere like HPF.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...31-84046.html\

this is the one i found..
it doesnt come with the flywheel.

i need the fly wheel and clutch fork..

where do i get all this in a kit?
i only have 450 and i still need the drive shaft, hard lines and soft lines, and shift linkage? all this aside of the clutch kit
i need this car up and rolling quickkkkkkk,

parts i already have:
w58
clutch master
slave cylinder

needed:
drive shaft
hard and soft lines
clutch kit,
flywheel
clutch fork
shift linkage?
flywheel bolts
and the shifter
-.-

another one...
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...e&apwidmIbxWjk

Clutch kits will rarely include the flywheel and fork. Those will have to be purchased separately. There is no external shift linkage, so cross that off your list. Once you get a shifter, and the bushing that goes in there (from Toyota, it's cheap), that's done. As cre said, get the fasteners from Toyota. Everything else you have on the list can be removed from a parts car or a junkyard car, shouldn't really cost much either.

You can get the Flywheel bolts and folk at driftmotion.com. And you might want to replace the front and rear seals of the tranny. I got both my new motor and clutch all in and come to find out they where both old, dried up and leaking on my w58.

The rear seal on the engine. As far as the clutch side goes you need: flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing.... just trying to help prevent you from forgetting something.

seal?
what you mean ?
i know what a seal is, but i dont know exactly what your talking about tho.

i also have the hardline that goes from the master to the slave cylinder, and the soft line from the slave connecting to the hardline..
is that it or did i miss something?

I'm talking about the seal for the out put shaft and the seal where The drive shaft goes they r cheap and easy to replace.

is it in the tsrm so i can read more about it?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=MT&P=34
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=MT&P=33

sweet thanks,

btw im taking my automatic shifter out and theres a green plugg that doesnt disconnect... how do i get it off?

this plug connects to the power button and somewhere on the tranny

my list is in my signature,
what else do i need?

the u-joint?
and what else?

hey cre, im getting all the miscellaneous parts together,
in a previous post you mentioned fasteners from toyota..
what fasteners so i can get em while i look for stick shift and pedals

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...sc300gs300.php
will this work? on my w58 for a 7m?

Bump! bump....

No it isn't the same... for some reason there is a different part number for the pre89 and the 89+ models... I've no idea what, never heard of anyone seeing a compatibility issue.

This wasn't with the tranny?

You're starting to get into an area where you're just going to have to see what's missing while you're doing it. You've got all the major stuff already covered in this thread.

All of the fasteners you're safe getting from a hardware store... just get hardened bolts according to the info in the fastener PDF which is somewhere in the FAQ. A fairly safe rule is that any fastener requires the same penetration as it's width at a minimum, 1.5x the diameter for hardened fasteners... hasn't failed me yet, but I generally try to get the fastener new from Toyota or match it up directly to the original.

i need the fasteners, driveshaft, shifter and bushing, and the clutch fork..
and no the clutch fork didnt come with the tranny.
and i honestly cant find it anywhere..
anyway the car is coming together reall nice..

hopefully this will happen sooner then a month from now cuz i need my car back..
i just purchased flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts,
i just received my clutch kit and should get my flywheel monday:drool:

I don't know the difference with that clutch fork, I'm assuming the bell housing and slave cylinder are different. You can use a clutch fork from a Cressida which may be easier to find in a salvage yard.

yeah i found a cressida with the pedals and fork with the boot soo i hoping monday its still there...
dang you werent lying that this was a hard task hahaha

theres also a line that goes from the slave to the clutch fork and throw out bearing..
is that a soft line or a hardline.?

Huh? From the slave to the fork? The slave it directly in contact with the fork... there's no hose there. It's a simple hydraulic, the only hose runs from the master cylinder (whose piston is connected to the clutch pedal arm) to the slave cylinder which is bolted to the bell housing (whose piston pushes the fork). The line runs from the master as a hard line which then connects to a soft line for the run from the firewall to the slave cylinder... So it's half and half. :P

I thought you had already ordered the hose?

Hey ochowdero, here's the pn for the bushing that you need to replace on that tranny where the shifter goes: 33505-35020. Should be a few bucks from Toyota, just give them the number

Might as well replace the seat too and inspect the actuator's metal sleeve which the tip of the shifter sits in for wear of the rubber damper. Many like the nylon bushing and seat from Marlin Crawler; I like them on the W58, on the R154 they make the notchiness of the transmission more noticeable.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmi...ver-ball-seats
http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmi...t-lever-socket

With the seats I think you need the red one, but I'd send them an email to make sure.