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that sits inside under the shift bushing? or is that the bushing?
and thanks btwilson, much needed help and for the lines that goes to the clutch fork, is it soft or a hardline? i only have the one that goes from the clutch master to the slave cylinder |
i searched the faqs and couldnt find the post about the fasteners?
am i looking in the wrong spot? lol:whateva: |
As cre pointed out, there is no line connecting the clutch fork to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder houses a piston. The piston directly makes contact with the clutch fork. So.... slave cylinder pushes clutch fork directly.
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Have you gone out to Ecology like you were talking about doing? Because when you do, you will be able to actually see how this is all connected instead of having us describe it to you.
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yeah i did,
i went out there and pulled the slave off, i didnt see a line and god forbid didnt pull the fork out either -.- i just figured someone grabbed the line before i got there... thanks tho. |
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no i didnt order it i pulled it off a car.. like i posted back to btwilson, when i looked at the slave i just figured someone pulled the line before i did.. that good to know, i just hope i get all the parts needed, even the small ones.. im hoping to do the swap next weekish... |
Looks like this only covers the engine... :(
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...tener-kit.html If you look at the front of each section it'll show you the fasteners used in the exploded view and gives the torque values (look at the bottom of the page for the legend). It'll look like 400 (30, 40) These are different standards of torque measurement. Use the one which matches the wrench you're using. As for the measurements of each of the fasteners, I don't know what to tell ya. Wait until you get everything installed as best you can and call a dealership with the part numbers from the EPC... if they can't look up the measurements I'm sure they'll be happy to sell you the ones you know will fit anyway. |
omg thanks haha,
that saves my life, you know how many bolts and pluggs i lost holding on the moldings of the car? haha |
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just brake lights and that safety switch.... and for some reason after i was done with an 86 the dash lights went out???? not sure if that was my doing or just it being a "supra" |
Blame the car... always works well for me. ;)
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haha,
i blame the car all the time.. |
I still blame mine and I sold it.... MKIII's get into your head; They're a special kind of psychological warfare.
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and thats no joke,
i got this car and its nothing but problems, but i cant get away from them. i probly wouldnt be myself if i didnt have a mk3 or mk2 soo btw, i received my flywheel ima post a pic up tomorrow becuz for some reason it doesnt look right, but idk haha or maybe you can answer right now... THERES A BIG ASS HOLE, like you know how the center of the clutch disk and pressure plate is a small hole? well this is a hole almost as big as the flywheel itself, is that normal? (i never seen a flywheel before) |
WTF? I'm going to need a picture of this. The hole in the center is only a few inches in diameter. Is this a new flywheel or used? Aftermarket or OEM?
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its aftermarket, but oem replacement
its not the original, but its built to toyota specs and built stronger..definately not lighter, i think this thing is 13.7 pounds or something heres the pics.. front: http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo2-1.jpg back: http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...um/photo-1.jpg |
i put it against the clutch disk and p-plate and it doesnt look right..
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That is not the right flywheel. I dunno how the hell that thing would work at all on anything.?
I'll post a pic of my flywheel in a half hr! |
No idea what the hell that might belong to...
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1 Attachment(s)
Here it is! This is a OEM 1JZ R154 flywheel but yours will look exaclty like it.
Attachment 3820 |
Yeah thats not the right part. I wonder what that is for and how it even bolts to a crankshaft?
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ill answer the question of what this thing belongs tooo
a frikin volkswagen -.- the auto place sent me this, i cal back and argue that i order the flywheel along with my clutch kit for my 87 supra, and they say no we dont even carry the 87 supra flywheels! i was like wTF? |
Yeah, that would make sense. VW's are all back asswards.
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good news is that i dont have to pay the return fee but only the restock fee, which is still bulshit but only 5$ so im not arguing that... |
what is the bolt on the front piece of the exhaust?
is it a hex bolt, or a regular mm? i cant find the right size...or bolt... |
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sorry it was late last night...
you know right next to the tranny, the front peice of the exhaust that goes up to the exhaust manifold? ok well this peice connects to the downpipes, and it has about 4 bolts and i think 2 screws and i cant get em loose.. if this didnt help let me know and ill take a pic when i cann.. thanks |
so the three(maybe four) bolt thats hold the front half of the exhaust pipe to the manifold are tight as hell, and i cant get them loose...
how can i loosen them up to take it off? oh and one is stripped due to rust, or someone else trying to get them off, but now i have that to deal with.. how do i go about taking these bolts off? and also do i even need to take the front peice of the exhaust off to drop the transmission? |
Lots of penetrating fluid like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. Soak it all night, maybe all day too. If that doesn't work I've heard that you sometimes will have luck if you heat the nuts up first with a torch, although I've never had to resort to this.
When I dropped an A340e, I believe I did drop most of the exhaust (actually, I think it was everything from the manifold back). You won't have to drop it all like I did, I just did it because it was simple enough and that kept it all in one piece. |
yeah its better i take it off,
i gotta replace the gasket on the downpipe, smells bad when i start it up haha gonna soak them up soon, hopefully this is gonna be smoother then im expecting right now |
so i sprayed liquid wrench on those bolts, they look like there coming off, just gotta wait...
as for the stripped bolt? what do i doooo!? |
They sell socket sets that are made to grip stripped bolts/nuts. I think they are called easy outs.
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An easyout is generally used for removing a broken off bolt. But the sockets he talks of are an option. I've used vice grips before if there is enough room for them. But soaking a bolt is a very good idea, although it may take a few days to really do the job. Also when you are removing a stuborn bolt or nut remember that a 6 point wrench or socket is farless likely to strip then a 12 point.
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:rant::rant::rant::rant:
yea i stripped the bolt that holds on my crank pully for my 1.6L with a 12 point. USE 6 point |
Agreed, use a 6 point whenever you're working with a 6 point head.
You really want to try to avoid using easy outs unless they're the last option. In a case like this, if I can get at it, I go in with an angle grinder or a dremel and grind two sides to give me a good solid surface to get a wrench on with a VERY firm fit. Yes, a lot of penetrating oil too... spray, wait 20 minutes, respray, wait 20, respray. If no good there then hit it with a torch right before you try the wrench. |
theres is no room to use vise grips at all,
i sprayed it with a bunch of penetrating oil, and im actually gonna go out and try to get them off, as for the stripped one, what do you think would be the easiest to get it off? i dont have a torch, vise grips are out of the option, and well i like the idea of the easy out,,, if the 6 point doesnt work, i was just gonna hammer on a smaller socket(13mm since the original is a 14mm) around the nut and try to get it off from there |
Usually an ISO socket is easier to get on.
For torch work just a burns-o-matic Oxygen/Mapp gas torch works fine and they're cheap... more than hot enough to get the bolt/nut cherry red. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...BL._SL110_.jpg They're pretty expensive on Amazon... I bought one quite a while ago and it was very cheap. Might look locally if you decide to get one. Can you even get a drill in there to use an easy out? You need to drill it dead center and, more importantly, straight to use an easy out. |
there is lil to no room,
right at the bottom of the exhaust manifold, right where the downpipe starts, theres three bolts hold the downpipe to the manifold. thats where there at. |
So the three that hold the elbow and downpipe together? The one between the exhaust and the engine? You're screwed... okay, not really, but it sucks. I've dealt with that one on MKIIIs before and it's no joy. If you can get the elbow disconnected from the turbo, then disconnect all the exhaust hangers you can drop the whole exhaust to give you room to work on it more intimately.
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i dont hane turbo,
ill post a pic in about five mins of what im dealing with |
Then you're talking about the collector union. Disconnecting the manifold at the head will still give you extra room (if needed). I remember there was something annoying with the hanger right by that spot too, but I can't recall specifically what.
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