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-   -   Transmission rant, help! Need advice or anything, asap (http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/18708-transmission-rant-help-need-advice-or-anything-asap.html)

ochowdero 03-14-2011 05:38 AM

hers the pics
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo3-1.jpg
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo2-2.jpg

ochowdero 03-25-2011 06:52 AM

i didnt wanna make a new thread.
 
hey everyone.
im here to let you know im almost read to do the swap

im picking up my last parts tomorrow:
clutch fork
shifter
pedals
driveshaft

here is all the parts i have and need:
parts i already have:
w58
clutch master
slave cylinder
hard and soft lines
clutch kit
flywheel
flywheel bolts
clutch fork
drive shaft
shifter
and pedals

needed:
shift bushing
oil plug

if anything is missing please notify me, thanks :P

okay now on to my questions.
the pilot bushing?
where does it go? on the tsrm it shows a diagram of it going in between the flywheel and clutch disk.
but from talking to a mechanic and common sense, doesnt it go into the engine where the input shaft goes? then after that you put the flywheel, bolt it down and then the clutch assembly? am i mistaken? if so please correct me lol

the other question is what do i need to do EXACTLY to the neutral start switch?

thanks in advance :x:

btwilson86 03-25-2011 07:28 AM

Pilot bushing goes into the small opening in the crankshaft flange (the part the flywheel bolts to). So it does sit slightly ahead of the flywheel, but it doesn't get in the way of any flywheel/clutch operations as it is smaller than the center hole in the flywheel.

ochowdero 03-25-2011 07:36 AM

ahh that makes sense.
haha

what wires do i connect for the neutral start switch?

would i still need to push down the clutch to start the car?

btwilson86 03-25-2011 07:39 AM

Neutral start switch.... I'm not sure what you need to do to bypass that. Hopefully someone else on here can help you with that

ochowdero 03-25-2011 09:08 AM

hey BT, the only thing missing on the transmission was the oil plugg right?

CanadianBak'inSupra 03-25-2011 03:13 PM

there is a sensor that looks like a 1/4 piece of pie, and the shifter for your automatic runs right through it.
remove it and plug it back in with it in the P ark position. or wire this into your new clutch pedal!
think you gotta wire in reverse lights also.

CanadianBak'inSupra 03-25-2011 03:18 PM

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...ft-Bushing-Kit

you can buy the bushings for your w58 shifter and i think r154
mk2 and 3 both use the w58

i am still new to celicasupra.com but BillyM has been at the site since mar2003 or at least that is when the site got remade
he is reliable.

installation instructions:
http://forums.celicasupra.com/showth...868#post412868

btwilson86 03-25-2011 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ochowdero (Post 93673)
hey BT, the only thing missing on the transmission was the oil plugg right?

Yeah, that should be it

ochowdero 03-26-2011 09:40 AM

okay i got it.
is there anyother drive shaft that i can take from another car that is a direct fit for the w58 trans/supra?
or can i use my auto one?

same thing for the shifter too

ochowdero 03-26-2011 11:07 PM

what are all of these?
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo3-2.jpg

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo2-3.jpg

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...um/photo-3.jpg

Travis89Turbo 03-27-2011 12:00 AM

The plug is your reverse switch. and the other threaded hole on pass. Side by the tail piece is for the speedo

crazysuprafinatic18 03-28-2011 03:30 AM

Idk if you have already decided to do whatever it is you were going to do. I think the easiest thing to do is to get the car up on four jack stands, makes things a lot simpler. Then get the jack under the tranny and take the bolts off and the couple connections and that's about it for taking it off.

crazysuprafinatic18 03-28-2011 03:31 AM

Ooops maybe should have kept going through the post. Sorry I was a little late aha

ochowdero 03-28-2011 04:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo (Post 93709)
The plug is your reverse switch. and the other threaded hole on pass. Side by the tail piece is for the speedo

so when i do the swap the speedo cable screws on and the reverse lights are the only to things i need for the swap? is there any other cables or plugs?

cre 03-28-2011 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazysuprafinatic18 (Post 93745)
Idk if you have already decided to do whatever it is you were going to do. I think the easiest thing to do is to get the car up on four jack stands, makes things a lot simpler.

The additional room is very nice but this can be a lethal suggestion unless additional efforts are in place. I recommend placing the car's wheels or another different under the frame and floorboard if you don't have wheels to use then put each on top of two parallel pieces of 2x4. Try to get them tall enough to leave only and in or two of clearance on top.

ochowdero 03-28-2011 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre (Post 93752)
The additional room is very nice but this can be a lethal suggestion unless additional efforts are in place. I recommend placing the car's wheels or another different under the frame and floorboard if you don't have wheels to use then put each on top of two parallel pieces of 2x4. Try to get them tall enough to leave only and in or two of clearance on top.

i use cinder blocks :P

Travis89Turbo 03-28-2011 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ochowdero (Post 93748)
so when i do the swap the speedo cable screws on and the reverse lights are the only to things i need for the swap? is there any other cables or plugs?

Other then bypassing the park switch that's it!

ochowdero 03-28-2011 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo (Post 93760)
Other then bypassing the park switch that's it!

how do i bypass?
and when i do, do i still step on the clutch to start it?

cre 03-29-2011 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ochowdero (Post 93753)
i use cinder blocks :P

Rims are less likely to tip.... or crumble. :P With out a lift I'm paranoid. ;)

ochowdero 03-31-2011 09:20 PM

yeah definately. ima try to get old rims for that...
anyway i got a question

since im doing the swap...
for the clutch pedal assembly, what do i need to make it work?
have it bolted to the clutch master.. then from the clutch master to the slave right? and itll work?

cause from where i got the pedal set the didnt give me all the bolts. and there is a wire on the pedal set and i dont know where that goes...
thanks for the help,,

ochowdero 04-01-2011 05:49 AM

also the dim wods tried ripping me off.
so now im thinking of getting my auto drive shaft cut down to fit the manual.
what are the pros and cons for doing that?

and if it is ok what are the specs of the manual drive shaft so i can print it out and give it to thhe machanic when i get it cut down..
thanks in advance

cre 04-01-2011 06:19 AM

I don't know that you could still use it. You need to find the diameter of the output shaft on each and how many splines are on them first.

ochowdero 04-01-2011 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre (Post 93936)
I don't know that you could still use it. You need to find the diameter of the output shaft on each and how many splines are on them first.

i thought you could?
hmmmm, damm idkkkk now

cre 04-01-2011 07:24 AM

I don't remember all the differences; It may work and I told you what you need to check.

ochowdero 04-01-2011 07:59 AM

ok i will,
other than that option, is there any other drive shafts i can use?

cre 04-01-2011 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ochowdero (Post 93942)
ok i will,
other than that option, is there any other drive shafts i can use?

No. The only other option would be finding a drive shaft with a compatible yoke so a drive shaft shop could cut that off and use it to build a new one.... they can probably get a new yoke anyway though so it's not worth the trouble of finding a used one (and thus a used U joint). The yoke from another W series transmission such as the common W54 may fit too.

Have you tried local salvage yards? Generally the N/A MKIII isn't very uncommon and the drive shaft is a low demand used part from it.

ochowdero 04-02-2011 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre (Post 93951)
No. The only other option would be finding a drive shaft with a compatible yoke so a drive shaft shop could cut that off and use it to build a new one.... they can probably get a new yoke anyway though so it's not worth the trouble of finding a used one (and thus a used U joint). The yoke from another W series transmission such as the common W54 may fit too.

Have you tried local salvage yards? Generally the N/A MKIII isn't very uncommon and the drive shaft is a low demand used part from it.

my local pick a part charges 2$ to get in, its not much but i dont like spending that and not finding the parts needed..

also cre, can you look at my clutch pedal?
the first: is up where its spose to be at, but im holding it cause it will just fall back to the floor..
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo2-4.jpg

the second: this is when its back to the floor.
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...um/photo-4.jpg

i just installed it..
the problem is when i install it, it doesnt stay up like its spose to.. it just goes back as far as it can and then pops down to the floor..
theres no fluid in the clutch master and not hook up to the slave..
its like the pedal isnt adjusted right... and even if i adjusted it to where it would stay where its spose to it will just pop back down to the floor and stay there.. its like theres no tension or something.. idk please help.

ochowdero 04-03-2011 02:53 AM

for the clutch pedal, i just figured it will be okay and correct it self when i get the lines hooked up and bleed it..

for my pressure plate bolts, there aftermart (APR OR ARP) and it didnt come with a torque spec, can i just torque them to the standard torque setting for the oe?

cre 04-03-2011 05:03 AM

The spring is supposed to assist in returning the pedal but get the master and slave in place before you worry about it.

Yes, the stock spec for the pressure plate is correct.

ochowdero 04-03-2011 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre (Post 94012)
The spring is supposed to assist in returning the pedal but get the master and slave in place before you worry about it.

Yes, the stock spec for the pressure plate is correct.

okay thanks,
the pilot bushing is flush with the crank input on the engine.. whatever that spot is called..
and the flywheel is on...

i dont have money for a transmission jack..
can i use the floor jack to jack up my transmission?
if so how?

btwilson86 04-03-2011 05:20 PM

I've done that. Since it's not an automatic, you don't have to worry about crushing a pan or anything.

I've just balanced the transmission on the jack cup, kept a hand on it to stabilize it, and jacked it up.

I know that some places sell transmission jack adapters, they're supposed to go on a standard floor jack instead of the original cup

ochowdero 04-03-2011 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by btwilson86 (Post 94021)
I've done that. Since it's not an automatic, you don't have to worry about crushing a pan or anything.

I've just balanced the transmission on the jack cup, kept a hand on it to stabilize it, and jacked it up.

I know that some places sell transmission jack adapters, they're supposed to go on a standard floor jack instead of the original cup

i meant for the manual trans since its round and not a square pan..

cre 04-03-2011 10:26 PM

Just use a 1' x 1' x 1/2" piece of plywood (NOT MDF or particle board!) and nail a couple scraps along two parallel sides as a guide leaving enough room to roll the tranny about 1/2" to either side. Then, use some metal strapping to attach it to the cup if there's not way to remove the cup and use a bolt through the board into the jack's head.

ochowdero 04-03-2011 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre (Post 94031)
Just use a 1' x 1' x 1/2" piece of plywood (NOT MDF or particle board!) and nail a couple scraps along two parallel sides as a guide leaving enough room to roll the tranny about 1/2" to either side. Then, use some metal strapping to attach it to the cup if there's not way to remove the cup and use a bolt through the board into the jack's head.

haha quick and simple, i like it..

can i bolt up the starter after i install the transmission? or before?

cre 04-04-2011 01:27 AM

Do it after. I can't remember for sure but I believe one if not both of the bolts run into or through the bell housing.

ochowdero 04-04-2011 04:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre (Post 94037)
Do it after. I can't remember for sure but I believe one if not both of the bolts run into or through the bell housing.

my mechanic said after..
which makes sense cuz one of the brackets for the bellhousing is connect through the starter...

i got my clutch disk and my pressure plate on.. bolts on the PP and there alil less then hand tight..
ima torque em but before i do, is there anything i should be careful about? or do before i torque them?
(the alignment tool is still inside it BTW)

ochowdero 04-11-2011 10:49 PM

hey every9one...
i need to know how to bleed the clutch lines for the mk3 non turbo...
and i reallyy need a pcture of what the clutch pedal assembly looks like...
i feel something is wrong with mine.. so i need your help


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