7mge hp increase info

907mge · 10-23-2010, 11:27 PM

To do a p&p job you will have to remove the valves from the head. You can really get into it and remove alot of metal which you have to be careful with or you can just do a good clean and smooth it out job. You will find the exhaust ports to be lined with carbon and the intake ports lined with residue from the pcv. Actually the whole intake will be coated from the pcv. There are videos on youtube of p&p ing but most of them are on big v8s that have much bigger ports. On the 7m the ports are much smaller and harder to work on. On mine I tried to do it myself and got sick of it and had the guy at the machine shop do it for me. He spent about 4 hours grinding away as well as a valve job and reshiming for $500.

zby67 · 10-24-2010, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 907mge

To do a p&p job you will have to remove the valves from the head. You can really get into it and remove alot of metal which you have to be careful with or you can just do a good clean and smooth it out job. You will find the exhaust ports to be lined with carbon and the intake ports lined with residue from the pcv. Actually the whole intake will be coated from the pcv. There are videos on youtube of p&p ing but most of them are on big v8s that have much bigger ports. On the 7m the ports are much smaller and harder to work on. On mine I tried to do it myself and got sick of it and had the guy at the machine shop do it for me. He spent about 4 hours grinding away as well as a valve job and reshiming for $500.

how thats fairly cheep! but yeah ill be doing a complete overhaul of the engine so everything comes out and new gets put back in. easyer said then done plus i the work on the head and block. hope this goes smother then what im thinking it will lol. wont know till i try. and i will be asking questions cause the haynes repair manual i has gives more info in the 5M's and basicly skips over the 86.5 and 87's and then gos directly to the 89-92 7m-GTE witch are similar but still. ill be using Cygnus X1 witch as everyone has said the holy bible to the supra's! lol

907mge · 10-24-2010, 04:07 PM

Yeah for me the previous owner included a tsrm for me which is nice. Just remember the following for the head gasket:

A metal headgasket is way overkill for a na

Use copper spray by permatex on the gasket before install

Chase the threads to insure accurate torque readings

The factory head bolts can be reused but I went with arp headstuds for extra reasurance.

Retorquing after a few heat cycles never hurts to be sure

zby67 · 10-24-2010, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 907mge

Yeah for me the previous owner included a tsrm for me which is nice. Just remember the following for the head gasket:

A metal headgasket is way overkill for a na

Use copper spray by permatex on the gasket before install

Chase the threads to insure accurate torque readings

The factory head bolts can be reused but I went with arp headstuds for extra reasurance.

Retorquing after a few heat cycles never hurts to be sure

MHG comes with the rebuild kit! lol and ARP head bolts lol its like 500 but hey

spunkenhimer · 01-30-2011, 03:25 PM

a lot of good information on here thanks alot guys for posting that about the 7mge engine. I was gonna see if i could find a way to remove my egr and carbon canister its big and in the way but i guess i should keep it right?

907mge · 01-30-2011, 07:36 PM

The problem is that people see extras under the hood and instantly think there is a power gain from losing them . The egr is good and does not hurt performance and the canister allows for the buning of fumes from the gas tank that would just be vented into the air. And neither weighs much, so weight reduction is not a benefit.

El_supracabra · 02-04-2011, 08:37 AM

i am currently in the process of upgrading/rebuilding my 7MGE. I really wanted to keep some of that *area under the curve* power that you have with a Naturally aspirated engine. Some things that I did to improve the power on mine were small improvements. It took A LOT of elbow grease to do the p&p and gasket match. but I used a die grinder w some 60 grit flapwheels. (about 1" in diameter you can get them from NAPA autoparts) then i used a drill (with a 6" boring bar ext) and some 300 grit sandpaper (glued to the flapwheels) but i p&p'd the INTAKE MANIFOLD and the both sides of the CYLINDER HEAD. then i used some 800 grit by hand to finish. If you have the money you can just pay a performance shop to do it. You are not supposed to polish AFTER the injectors, so leave that section Rough to aid in fuel atomization. you will DEFINITELY want to completely disassemble the head before doing ANY sanding or cutting. THEN have it jet washed at a machine shop before reassembling. I would also recommend a 3 angle valve job while it is all tore down.

If you dont want to go through all that. i would def recommend having the head milled about .020" or more (but I wouldnt feel comfortable going over .040") just to increase the compression ratio. Also going w a thinner stronger gasket such as a cometic or hks stainless steel mls will raise compression (hp) and will last much longer than the graphite stock one. If you go with a SS hg then you def need to run ARP studs or at least New bolts.

Also another small improvement you can do is replace the old 23lb flywheel (if of course you have a standard) with a new lightweight flywheel. i went with a chrome-moly 12lb. That will free up some of the rotational mass that is "loading" the motor during acceleration. Good luck!

LONG LIVE NA POWER!! lol

CanadianBak'inSupra · 02-04-2011, 02:38 PM

i vote sticky or FAQ!!!!!

907mge · 02-05-2011, 02:38 AM

All I can say about porting and polishing is that it is very intensive. I gave up after a few hours and had the guy at the machine shop do it since he has much more experience. I'm not trying to scare anyone but if you are not patient don't start P&P ing. I unfortunatly did not take any pictures of my head but here are good pics of a 7m that is:

http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/...adporting.html

02-04-2011, 08:37 AM	#7
El_supracabra Intake Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: South of Columbus, Ohio Posts: 45	i am currently in the process of upgrading/rebuilding my 7MGE. I really wanted to keep some of that area under the curve power that you have with a Naturally aspirated engine. Some things that I did to improve the power on mine were small improvements. It took A LOT of elbow grease to do the p&p and gasket match. but I used a die grinder w some 60 grit flapwheels. (about 1" in diameter you can get them from NAPA autoparts) then i used a drill (with a 6" boring bar ext) and some 300 grit sandpaper (glued to the flapwheels) but i p&p'd the INTAKE MANIFOLD and the both sides of the CYLINDER HEAD. then i used some 800 grit by hand to finish. If you have the money you can just pay a performance shop to do it. You are not supposed to polish AFTER the injectors, so leave that section Rough to aid in fuel atomization. you will DEFINITELY want to completely disassemble the head before doing ANY sanding or cutting. THEN have it jet washed at a machine shop before reassembling. I would also recommend a 3 angle valve job while it is all tore down. If you dont want to go through all that. i would def recommend having the head milled about .020" or more (but I wouldnt feel comfortable going over .040") just to increase the compression ratio. Also going w a thinner stronger gasket such as a cometic or hks stainless steel mls will raise compression (hp) and will last much longer than the graphite stock one. If you go with a SS hg then you def need to run ARP studs or at least New bolts. Also another small improvement you can do is replace the old 23lb flywheel (if of course you have a standard) with a new lightweight flywheel. i went with a chrome-moly 12lb. That will free up some of the rotational mass that is "loading" the motor during acceleration. Good luck! LONG LIVE NA POWER!! lol __________________ 86.5 Supra NA: milled head .020, decked block .007, .5mm+ pistons, port & polished intake manifold and cyl head,OBX header, 3-angle, cold air intake, Cometic MLS HG. ALL NATURAL! CHEVROLET- Cracked Heads, Every Valve Rattles, Oil Leaks Every Time FORD- Flipped Over, Rebuilt Dodge DODGE- Dirty Old Dust Gathering Engine I'd rather drive a Toyota, than push a ford.

02-04-2011, 02:38 PM	#8
CanadianBak'inSupra Official hall monitor / search nazi - NO SOUP FOR YOU! Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Canada, BC Posts: 837	i vote sticky or FAQ!!!!! __________________ 1984 supra - 1uzfe - w58 - 4.10 - 1 piece aluminum shaft.

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10-23-2010, 11:27 PM	#1
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	To do a p&p job you will have to remove the valves from the head. You can really get into it and remove alot of metal which you have to be careful with or you can just do a good clean and smooth it out job. You will find the exhaust ports to be lined with carbon and the intake ports lined with residue from the pcv. Actually the whole intake will be coated from the pcv. There are videos on youtube of p&p ing but most of them are on big v8s that have much bigger ports. On the 7m the ports are much smaller and harder to work on. On mine I tried to do it myself and got sick of it and had the guy at the machine shop do it for me. He spent about 4 hours grinding away as well as a valve job and reshiming for $500.

10-24-2010, 04:07 PM	#3
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	Yeah for me the previous owner included a tsrm for me which is nice. Just remember the following for the head gasket: A metal headgasket is way overkill for a na Use copper spray by permatex on the gasket before install Chase the threads to insure accurate torque readings The factory head bolts can be reused but I went with arp headstuds for extra reasurance. Retorquing after a few heat cycles never hurts to be sure

01-30-2011, 03:25 PM	#5
spunkenhimer Intake Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Pikeville NC. Posts: 49	a lot of good information on here thanks alot guys for posting that about the 7mge engine. I was gonna see if i could find a way to remove my egr and carbon canister its big and in the way but i guess i should keep it right?

01-30-2011, 07:36 PM	#6
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	The problem is that people see extras under the hood and instantly think there is a power gain from losing them . The egr is good and does not hurt performance and the canister allows for the buning of fumes from the gas tank that would just be vented into the air. And neither weighs much, so weight reduction is not a benefit.

02-05-2011, 02:38 AM	#9
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	All I can say about porting and polishing is that it is very intensive. I gave up after a few hours and had the guy at the machine shop do it since he has much more experience. I'm not trying to scare anyone but if you are not patient don't start P&P ing. I unfortunatly did not take any pictures of my head but here are good pics of a 7m that is: http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/...adporting.html