what did you pay for your mk3?

[Doat91]

What do you guys think of a 91 mk3 turbo targa top 5spd everything in excellent condition, motor is fine, interior is great, tranny is fine, 80k original miles, only damage is the scuff and hole in the front bumper and a small ding behind the drive side door for $3,200?

[phat_toaster]

As long as there's no rust, the head gasket is not shot, clean title, and no major body damage, $3,200 sounds like a really good deal. Take it from somebody who was on the market for many months before buying one.

[Doat91]

Originally Posted by phat_toaster

As long as there's no rust, the head gasket is not shot, clean title, and no major body damage, $3,200 sounds like a really good deal. Take it from somebody who was on the market for many months before buying one.

Thanks I plan on setting up an appointment with a Toyota dealer near the area and have them check it out.

[Grandavi]

Originally Posted by Doat91

What do you guys think of a 91 mk3 turbo targa top 5spd everything in excellent condition, motor is fine, interior is great, tranny is fine, 80k original miles, only damage is the scuff and hole in the front bumper and a small ding behind the drive side door for $3,200?

I call that a super deal. Just get the engine looked at closely.. everything else is age/wear and tear. Plus.. it all depends on your plans for the car.

Make sure you put your hands down the rear quarter panels (there are access panels in the hatch area) and check the condition of the metal along the wheel wells and inside the quarter panels. Dirt+Water = rust holes which will eventually pop off the quarters if not given attention asap. Water can also come in via the brake light seals and hatch seal, but that usually lands up in the spare tire well (which you need to see WITHOUT the spare tire). A bit of blue from a cold engine start can mean a simple valve seal shrinkage which is common for the 7M engine.. and normally I wouldn't say this, but I have had 3 gas tanks leak so far, so it would be nice to see it with at least 65% fuel in the tank.

3200 is a good buy if the car is fairly straight and runs nice. Its repairs which can kill you financially depending on your level of expertise.

Good luck!

[Doat91]

Originally Posted by Grandavi

I call that a super deal. Just get the engine looked at closely.. everything else is age/wear and tear. Plus.. it all depends on your plans for the car.

Make sure you put your hands down the rear quarter panels (there are access panels in the hatch area) and check the condition of the metal along the wheel wells and inside the quarter panels. Dirt+Water = rust holes which will eventually pop off the quarters if not given attention asap. Water can also come in via the brake light seals and hatch seal, but that usually lands up in the spare tire well (which you need to see WITHOUT the spare tire). A bit of blue from a cold engine start can mean a simple valve seal shrinkage which is common for the 7M engine.. and normally I wouldn't say this, but I have had 3 gas tanks leak so far, so it would be nice to see it with at least 65% fuel in the tank.

3200 is a good buy if the car is fairly straight and runs nice. Its repairs which can kill you financially depending on your level of expertise.

Good luck!

Thanks for the tips I'll be sure to check that out, my friend has worked on this car and assures me it is solid I only want to change the head gasket to prevent it from blowing on me while driving somewhere. I plan on just getting the car to look clean and under 400hp so nothing crazy just simple mods that won't affect reliability too much but it seems that to reach about 400hp I'd need to get bigger injectors and an AFM since I would have to turn up the boost. I'd only turn up the boost for when I need it though otherwise it will be at stock level boost for just normal driving. I'll make a build thread and ask more technical questions in there about suspension and try to do the work myself but if I can't do it I know a guy who owns a shop that works on race motors and cars.

[Grandavi]

Originally Posted by Doat91

Thanks for the tips I'll be sure to check that out, my friend has worked on this car and assures me it is solid I only want to change the head gasket to prevent it from blowing on me while driving somewhere. I plan on just getting the car to look clean and under 400hp so nothing crazy just simple mods that won't affect reliability too much but it seems that to reach about 400hp I'd need to get bigger injectors and an AFM since I would have to turn up the boost. I'd only turn up the boost for when I need it though otherwise it will be at stock level boost for just normal driving. I'll make a build thread and ask more technical questions in there about suspension and try to do the work myself but if I can't do it I know a guy who owns a shop that works on race motors and cars.

I wouldnt do the head if it doesnt need it... Maintenance is better. Do a leak test (better than a simple compression test). Just because 7M's can blow headgaskets doesnt mean they will.. Proper torque, proper build = fine engine. Why fix something that isnt broken? : )

[Doat91]

Originally Posted by Grandavi

I wouldnt do the head if it doesnt need it... Maintenance is better. Do a leak test (better than a simple compression test). Just because 7M's can blow headgaskets doesnt mean they will.. Proper torque, proper build = fine engine. Why fix something that isnt broken? : )

Lol I get that but I want to change the gasket and get ARP bolts, I mean when the head gasket blows you won't know until it happens right? then you are screwed and have to tow the car home I just don't want to have to deal with that again because I am usually about half hour, all highway, at least from my house when I hang out with friends, damn Houston is so vast lol.

[Grandavi]

Originally Posted by Doat91

Lol I get that but I want to change the gasket and get ARP bolts, I mean when the head gasket blows you won't know until it happens right? then you are screwed and have to tow the car home I just don't want to have to deal with that again because I am usually about half hour, all highway, at least from my house when I hang out with friends, damn Houston is so vast lol.

Generally speaking, you cant simply pull the head and change the gasket (not like the American bigblocks.. ). If there are any small leakages already occuring, I would advise against putting a headgasket on without first prepping the block/head surfaces precisely.. otherwise.. your opening a can of worms you may not want to. (Of course.. I am not a true mechanic, but from all my discussions and readings, this part of the 7M is the one that has to be done right or prepare for failure. Done right = success and longevity)

[Doat91]

Originally Posted by Grandavi

Generally speaking, you cant simply pull the head and change the gasket (not like the American bigblocks.. ). If there are any small leakages already occuring, I would advise against putting a headgasket on without first prepping the block/head surfaces precisely.. otherwise.. your opening a can of worms you may not want to. (Of course.. I am not a true mechanic, but from all my discussions and readings, this part of the 7M is the one that has to be done right or prepare for failure. Done right = success and longevity)

Yea my mechanic would inspect the block and head and machine it to make it smooth and precise, which is another reason why I am thinking of just getting a metal head gasket since he will do all of that.

[Awyman18]

spent $6k on mine, kinda a bad deal but it was the only one i could find in ohio that was 1. turbo, 2. not modded out the yingyang 3. not rusty and 4. clean as fuuuuuuuuuuuuuh. Bought with about 96k on it, im the 3rd owner, first owner was an old man who bought it brand new, had it from 1990 to 2006, and only put 67k miles on it. 2nd owner was a stupid kid that is very ignorant. Garaged every winter (even if it was a lie, the sight of no rust or very minimal rust speaks for itself) and very clean. Ive put idk how much in it...lol