what did you pay for your mk3?

[Grandavi]

Originally Posted by Doat91

Thanks for the tips I'll be sure to check that out, my friend has worked on this car and assures me it is solid I only want to change the head gasket to prevent it from blowing on me while driving somewhere. I plan on just getting the car to look clean and under 400hp so nothing crazy just simple mods that won't affect reliability too much but it seems that to reach about 400hp I'd need to get bigger injectors and an AFM since I would have to turn up the boost. I'd only turn up the boost for when I need it though otherwise it will be at stock level boost for just normal driving. I'll make a build thread and ask more technical questions in there about suspension and try to do the work myself but if I can't do it I know a guy who owns a shop that works on race motors and cars.

I wouldnt do the head if it doesnt need it... Maintenance is better. Do a leak test (better than a simple compression test). Just because 7M's can blow headgaskets doesnt mean they will.. Proper torque, proper build = fine engine. Why fix something that isnt broken? : )

[Doat91]

Originally Posted by Grandavi

I wouldnt do the head if it doesnt need it... Maintenance is better. Do a leak test (better than a simple compression test). Just because 7M's can blow headgaskets doesnt mean they will.. Proper torque, proper build = fine engine. Why fix something that isnt broken? : )

Lol I get that but I want to change the gasket and get ARP bolts, I mean when the head gasket blows you won't know until it happens right? then you are screwed and have to tow the car home I just don't want to have to deal with that again because I am usually about half hour, all highway, at least from my house when I hang out with friends, damn Houston is so vast lol.

[Grandavi]

Originally Posted by Doat91

Lol I get that but I want to change the gasket and get ARP bolts, I mean when the head gasket blows you won't know until it happens right? then you are screwed and have to tow the car home I just don't want to have to deal with that again because I am usually about half hour, all highway, at least from my house when I hang out with friends, damn Houston is so vast lol.

Generally speaking, you cant simply pull the head and change the gasket (not like the American bigblocks.. ). If there are any small leakages already occuring, I would advise against putting a headgasket on without first prepping the block/head surfaces precisely.. otherwise.. your opening a can of worms you may not want to. (Of course.. I am not a true mechanic, but from all my discussions and readings, this part of the 7M is the one that has to be done right or prepare for failure. Done right = success and longevity)

[Doat91]

Originally Posted by Grandavi

Generally speaking, you cant simply pull the head and change the gasket (not like the American bigblocks.. ). If there are any small leakages already occuring, I would advise against putting a headgasket on without first prepping the block/head surfaces precisely.. otherwise.. your opening a can of worms you may not want to. (Of course.. I am not a true mechanic, but from all my discussions and readings, this part of the 7M is the one that has to be done right or prepare for failure. Done right = success and longevity)

Yea my mechanic would inspect the block and head and machine it to make it smooth and precise, which is another reason why I am thinking of just getting a metal head gasket since he will do all of that.

[Grandavi]

Originally Posted by Doat91

Yea my mechanic would inspect the block and head and machine it to make it smooth and precise, which is another reason why I am thinking of just getting a metal head gasket since he will do all of that.

All good, just make sure you know the $$ involved prior to cracking it open. I dont know about there, but here it isn't cheap

[Doat91]

Originally Posted by Grandavi

All good, just make sure you know the $$ involved prior to cracking it open. I dont know about there, but here it isn't cheap

Yea my guy gave me a rough quote of $1500 plus parts

[Shore Guy]

Bought my 1988 N/A for $1500.00. It did not run well at first due to electrical issues. Spent winter tracing wires and it works perfect. Second year on the road and no issues to report. Car came from Florida has power everything, leather seats, Targa roof.
Guy I bought car from threw in parts car with a good engine and trans that works, body shot but all lights, mirrors, moldings good when I need a part. Very very very happy with ride and look forward to adding touches to make it mine.

[Awyman18]

spent $6k on mine, kinda a bad deal but it was the only one i could find in ohio that was 1. turbo, 2. not modded out the yingyang 3. not rusty and 4. clean as fuuuuuuuuuuuuuh. Bought with about 96k on it, im the 3rd owner, first owner was an old man who bought it brand new, had it from 1990 to 2006, and only put 67k miles on it. 2nd owner was a stupid kid that is very ignorant. Garaged every winter (even if it was a lie, the sight of no rust or very minimal rust speaks for itself) and very clean. Ive put idk how much in it...lol

[Crop]

$1000.00 for my 1987 7mgte targa.. with 54k on original motor..got it from a co worker who had to sell it..sittin on ugly 17" chromes with brand new tires, lowered all around with eibachs 1". strut tower brace all around. (tems removed).came with a (demon) fiberglass bumper with bracket and hell fog lights in box, 4 brembro crosssdrilled/slotted rotors (in boxes) new rear sway bar... 3" stainless exhaust no muffler, just cat (nasty sounding), ..flex-a-lite radiator/elec fan combo..k&n air filter, (rest of the motors stock with ct26 turbo). been fun working on this so far....im spending MUCH more than i thought id be...i was just going to flip it, but now im keeping her until i feel im rdy...shes just toooo much fun to play with.