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Old 03-17-2010, 08:04 PM   #1
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Default Easy Way to Bypass Theft Deterrent System

Wife's '90 turbo Supra stranded her in a Home Depot parking lot. Wouldn't crank. Told her via phone to try locking/unlocking doors. No help. Told her to find and pull the "DOME" fuse from underhood fuse block, still no help.

I drive over, try everything I can think of including disconnecting battery for a while, no help. Left battery disconnected. Had car towed to local Toyota dealer--dropped off after they closed.

Next day Toyota mechanic hooks battery up, car fires right up. No charge, got free car wash too. But that is the LAST time this car is gonna pull that stunt. I don't need that complicated factory system-I have my own "jumper plug" that gets pulled out when the car is parked, and it won't start w/o the plug in place.

I've spend 2 days reading a lot of posts here on the TDS. If I simply jumper the wires together for the hood latch switch while the TDS is off, will that work as per a post from years ago? That is supposed to prevent the TDS from arming itself. Do I need to do anything more?
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Old 03-18-2010, 12:42 AM   #2
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AFAIK, it works fine... and no, it wouldn't have changed unless Toyota techs have gotten very guerrilla in their methodology. I've never tried it though, I have an aftermarket system which controls it... but it's easy enough to test.

Double check the diagram to be sure as to whether you jumper the two wires or sever them.
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Old 03-18-2010, 02:21 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cre View Post
Double check the diagram to be sure as to whether you jumper the two wires or sever them.
I cut the hood switch connector off and twisted the wires together. We'll see how that works. I can't tell by looking at the wiring diagrams if they're supposed to be twisted or separated in order to fool the computer into thinking the hood is always open and preventing it from arming the alarm.

The "security check" light never comes on--except when the key is first turned on, so the light bulb is good. But we have always locked the car using the inside door lock buttons--never from the outside key.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:20 PM   #4
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Tried twisting the hood switch together, worked OK for a week or so, then wife got stranded at a Costco. Took my 1-ton truck over, tried all the usual tricks-lock unlock everything many times, key on-off twice/three times--nothing worked. Disconnected battery for 30 min., no help.

Toyota dealer was only a few blocks away, so towed car over. Just as the service guy was about to start writing, told wife to try it one more time. Car fired right up!
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"You see, wire telegraph is like a very long cat. You pull his tail in New York and his head is meowing in Los Angeles. Do you understand this? Radio operates the same way: You send signals here, they receive them there. The only difference is there is no cat." A. Einstein

1988 and 1990 Turbo Supras

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Old 03-24-2010, 01:58 AM   #5
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I'm PMing you the details now.
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Old 03-25-2010, 03:07 AM   #6
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Thanks. Turns out I *think* the problem is the automatic trans. neutral starting switch!
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:25 AM   #7
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That'd do it.
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:49 AM   #8
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You know, if i'd thought it was an auto we were talking about thats the first thing i wouldve said as mine needs the selector wobbling a bit sometimes before itll crank!
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:34 AM   #9
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I was wrong--not the neutral switch. Believe it or not, wife got stranded again today! I'm lucky I got dinner tonight. Car has been starting fine ~8 times, then nothing. She tried shifting in and out of Park a few times, tried neutral, nothing.

Drive ~10 miles to tow her again, tell her to try it one more time. Car fires right up. This is with the hood switch wires twisted together, which is SUPPOSED to prevent the alarm from arming.

If it isn't the alarm computer, maybe it's the starter relay that's in the pass. side "kick panel". I took a look and it doesn't appear to be easy to get that panel off. I assume the kick panel is on the side at the floor, or is it the underside of the dash?

One thing's for sure, she won't drive this thing until I (we) solve it for good.
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"You see, wire telegraph is like a very long cat. You pull his tail in New York and his head is meowing in Los Angeles. Do you understand this? Radio operates the same way: You send signals here, they receive them there. The only difference is there is no cat." A. Einstein

1988 and 1990 Turbo Supras

Last edited by Benesesso; 03-26-2010 at 04:37 AM.
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:22 AM   #10
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Ahh just gets stranger. But if the car always seems to start after towing (hence movement) i'd be inclined to wonder about a loose connection, possibly at the starter signal wire (the small spade terminal) since repeated tries usually coax a dodgy relay into working, just jumps out as funny it never tries till just after towing...
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'89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks...

'83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks

'95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it
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