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Old 04-09-2010, 12:37 AM   #1
cre

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You mean the TPS, I presume? It's in the EFI section under Throttle Body and then Throttle Position Sensor.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:15 AM   #2
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The screws I was talking about are on the firewall side of the TP, opposite of the TPS. One is on the linkage and the other on a diaphragm attached to the TP. Some type of stop screw I think.
I cannot get pics today but if that is what is needed, I will. The guy told me he adjusted the idle using them. I believe that is not the correct so I wanted to set the screws back to spec?
Thanks
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Old 04-18-2010, 12:41 PM   #3
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I still have not gotten the car accelerate hard. It will go just feels like a 4 or 5 cyl most of the time.

Will a leak in the hose coming off the front of the valve cover, vent. hose #3, cause running issues?

I have read several places suggesting removing the egr and related lines. Is this a good idea? I have no emissions testing in my area.

The car seems to idle higher and better once it warms up.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:32 AM   #4
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Look,
I apologize for any incorrect "Forum" etiquette that may have caused any problems with my post. It seemed pretty lonely, so maybe I was just re-hashing things too much. Either way you guys helped and I appreciate it.

The car's biggest issue was the injectors being clogged due to sitting for over a year. (I may have failed to mention that). I read somewhere to run the injector additive, I used Lucas, and after 2 or 3 tanks the car runs much better. It stills runs a little rich below 3K and will not accept full throttle consistently, but it's getting better the more I drive.

If my check engine light is not flashing anymore and the EFI has been cleared, does that mean that I have no error codes? The light works fine, just wasn't sure what came first the flash or the jumper?

Thanks- I love this car.
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:55 PM   #5
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So I re-read your thread, and saw you mentioning your distributor adjustment.

I think, since the car is running a little better, that now would be a good time to check your timing. I know that if one of your camshafts is just a tooth off, it will run similarly to what you're describing.

Remove the plastic upper timing cover, and verify that when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke the 2 cam gear timing marks point straight up, inline with the raised line on the timing plate behind the cam gears. Also make sure your crank is pointed right at the 0 mark. If not, release the belt tension, slide the belt off the cam gears, and adjust as necessary.

Once that's all dialed in, replace your timing cover and idle the car up to operating temperature. You're gonna put a jumper wire in the diagnostic box (like you're checking for codes), hook up a timing light to the no.1 cylinder wire, and set your base ignition timing to 10? BTDC. Make your adjustments by loosening that dizzy bolt and turning it till it's set. Once dialed in, tighten the bolt, remove your jumper wire, disconnect the timing light, and go for a drive.


Let us know how it drives then


Oh, more detailed instructions on checking timing can be found in the TSRM
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:36 PM   #6
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Can a clogged CAT make the car stumble on hard acceleration? Not real hard, half throttle and up. I replaced plugs (NGK) and set the TP values(ohms). It runs better but has a rough idle and will not pull hard unless you gas it easy.

Appreciate your help. And hey if I am doing something wrong in my posts please let me know. First time forum user. Thanks
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