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Old 01-26-2010, 02:26 AM   #51
bradenman1
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Quote:
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I've only ever replaced two studs... if you're going to have problems it will be with the threads themselves. Do your best to get the studs seated as well as possible, but don't worry about torquing the studs by themselves.
Ok cool that makes me a little more at ease. I was just woundering because the onesthat were on there either backed them selves out of the head or were not seateds properly
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Old 01-26-2010, 02:44 AM   #52
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If they haven't backed out and the gasket hasn't disintegrated then you may have a problem. When the studs pull free (which, sadly, isn't too uncommon) it's the threads in the head which go... not the studs. It'd be great if it were simply a matter of replacing the studs as with the head you have to drill and install helicoils.
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Old 01-26-2010, 03:59 AM   #53
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Quote:
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If they haven't backed out and the gasket hasn't disintegrated then you may have a problem. When the studs pull free (which, sadly, isn't too uncommon) it's the threads in the head which go... not the studs. It'd be great if it were simply a matter of replacing the studs as with the head you have to drill and install helicoils.
luckely only one came out with the threads i think. i looked ast them and i ran another stud through it to see if the threads were still going to work and it tightened right in maybe i wont have to drill. whats your opinion on this matter. only one didn't come out with the nut and its the one that looks like it striped out a bit on the inside all the others are good and intact

WOOOT i should get most of my parts tomorrow from toyota

oh and the gasket was pretty decenigrated/melted on the side that was really loose
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:32 AM   #54
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I wouldn't count on the stud where the threads pulled out holding... You're best off helicoiling it while you've got things apart... helicoiling with the head already install sucks though. Which stud? Rear, center or front area? You can try just installing it and holing for the best, but don't be surprised if it fails.

Disintegrated gaskets cause a fair number of people to believe that the threads have given up when it's just that there's no longer any pressure against the nut when they remove them... that's the only reason I asked.
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Old 01-26-2010, 02:03 PM   #55
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Quote:
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I wouldn't count on the stud where the threads pulled out holding... You're best off helicoiling it while you've got things apart... helicoiling with the head already install sucks though. Which stud? Rear, center or front area? You can try just installing it and holing for the best, but don't be surprised if it fails.

Disintegrated gaskets cause a fair number of people to believe that the threads have given up when it's just that there's no longer any pressure against the nut when they remove them... that's the only reason I asked.
Its the 2nd top bolt from the back. Ill take pictures tonight. The bolts backed out and the nuts were seased to the studs. I guess I should have left that stud alone and replaced the other 6.

When I'm re torquing the head bolts is there a coolant drane plug I need to pull out on the block to drane the water jackets? And also I only had trouble getting to one stud but if I have to turn the cams how do I do it
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:10 PM   #56
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Its the 2nd top bolt from the back. Ill take pictures tonight. The bolts backed out and the nuts were seased to the studs. I guess I should have left that stud alone and replaced the other 6.
I find that the ones in the back are hell to helicoil with the head in... I've done it and I hate it. Some people don't have as much trouble. A 90? drill adapter may make the job easier, otherwise, pull the charcoal canister out and I hope you don't have ABS. Just take it nice and slow. Make sure all of the sizes are right too and use a stop on the drill bit.

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When I'm re torquing the head bolts is there a coolant drane plug I need to pull out on the block to drane the water jackets? And also I only had trouble getting to one stud but if I have to turn the cams how do I do it
Nah, draining won't accomplish anything really. If there's coolant between the HG and the mating surfaces it's not going to drain out.

Pull the EFI fuse (which you should have already done, remove the fan, put a breaker bar with socket on the bolt for the harmonic balancer (the main pulley) and turn.... I'm assuming you haven't pulled the timing belt.
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:24 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cre View Post
I find that the ones in the back are hell to helicoil with the head in... I've done it and I hate it. Some people don't have as much trouble. A 90? drill adapter may make the job easier, otherwise, pull the charcoal canister out and I hope you don't have ABS. Just take it nice and slow. Make sure all of the sizes are right too and use a stop on the drill bit.



Nah, draining won't accomplish anything really. If there's coolant between the HG and the mating surfaces it's not going to drain out.

Pull the EFI fuse (which you should have already done, remove the fan, put a breaker bar with socket on the bolt for the harmonic balancer (the main pulley) and turn.... I'm assuming you haven't pulled the timing belt.
No I havnt pilled the fuse or the timing belt out I wasn't planning on taking it out. I may just leave it as is if its going to take that much more time and money. I'm planing on having it rebuilt within a year or 2 any way it should last. I'm staying stock boost untill I have money for a replacement 7mgte
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:39 PM   #58
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I was saying that's how you do it if the timing belt is still installed... pull the EFI fuse and then rotate the crank manually. It's cake... no reason not to do it.

ALWAYS pull the EFI fuse (if not the positive battery cable) when you work on the engine!
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Old 01-26-2010, 07:44 PM   #59
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Quote:
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I was saying that's how you do it if the timing belt is still installed... pull the EFI fuse and then rotate the crank manually. It's cake... no reason not to do it.

ALWAYS pull the EFI fuse (if not the positive battery cable) when you work on the engine!
Well iv had the cable undone sence I started working on the car. Ill look tonight and see if I can turn it with the fan in. I have some swivil saockets that may work but I don't have a brakerbar. Could I use a wratchet and the socket that fits it?

So I need a 10mill hex socket and probably hex wrench, a torque wrench, and a brakerbar

Edit: I just got a call from power fab and my turbo is in!!!! Ill be over to pick it up tonight hopefully and I believe that toyota is suposed to have my parts als : )

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Old 01-27-2010, 03:05 AM   #60
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I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.
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