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Old 01-25-2010, 12:22 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
You already have the valve covers off, so get a GOOD torque wrench and check the head bolt torque. IIRC, stock bolts should be good for ~72 ft. lb., far better than the original 58. Take a good look at a bolt head and see if it says SPS or ARP. Those are aftermarket bolts and will take a little more.

Are the head bolts the big 18mm hex bolts in the spark plug area??
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:03 AM   #42
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Are the head bolts the big 18mm hex bolts in the spark plug area??
No, they are 10 mm socket head "capscrews"--there are 14 of them. You can buy a 1/2" drive metric socket with a male 10mm section, or just buy a 1/2" 6 point metric socket in 10 mm and a 10 mm Allen wrench. Cut ~3/4"+ off the long end and use that piece.
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:09 AM   #43
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No, they are 10 mm socket head "capscrews"--there are 14 of them. You can buy a 1/2" drive metric socket with a male 10mm section, or just buy a 1/2" 6 point metric socket in 10 mm and a 10 mm Allen wrench. Cut ~3/4"+ off the long end and use that piece.
do i have to take the intake manifold off to do this?? i didn't look really closely but i didn't see any bolts or anything. if i can do it without taking the intake manifold off i would but that manifold looks like hell to get through and id rather not go through it right now lol
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:31 AM   #44
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do i have to take the intake manifold off to do this?? i didn't look really closely but i didn't see any bolts or anything. if i can do it without taking the intake manifold off i would but that manifold looks like hell to get through and id rather not go through it right now lol
No, but I think you have to pull the cams. They're easy, and you should install a new cam drive belt then too. Do a 'net search on how you have to line up the marks on the cam pulleys--it's no big deal.
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Old 01-25-2010, 03:51 PM   #45
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No, but I think you have to pull the cams. They're easy, and you should install a new cam drive belt then too. Do a 'net search on how you have to line up the marks on the cam pulleys--it's no big deal.
I may have to do that.. just more time I have to wait and more money to spend : ( I'm still in school andwork every day other than Sunday ill have to wait a few more weeks to get the cam belt and a torque wrench
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:28 PM   #46
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No, but I think you have to pull the cams. They're easy, and you should install a new cam drive belt then too. Do a 'net search on how you have to line up the marks on the cam pulleys--it's no big deal.
I may have to do that.. just more time I have to wait and more money to spend : ( I'm still in school andwork every day other than Sunday ill have to wait a few more weeks to get the cam belt and a torque wrench
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:08 PM   #47
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Depending on the size of the socket you may be able to tighten the head bolts without pulling the cams, you'll just need to turn them periodically to let the socket clear. I've done it a couple times.

When you torque the head bolts down remember to do it in multiple passes and also make sure to loosen any head bolts which are not already loose by backing them off 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:54 PM   #48
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Depending on the size of the socket you may be able to tighten the head bolts without pulling the cams, you'll just need to turn them periodically to let the socket clear. I've done it a couple times.

When you torque the head bolts down remember to do it in multiple passes and also make sure to loosen any head bolts which are not already loose by backing them off 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Ill have to take a look at them tonight I guess. You said to re torque them to 75 ft/lbs.

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Old 01-25-2010, 07:57 PM   #49
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Ohh I have another question. Is there a tool I need to get to install the new exhaust manifold studs to safely get them in without damaging the threads? Or should I just use the two nut method and try to torque them to 29 ft/lbs

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Old 01-25-2010, 09:58 PM   #50
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I've only ever replaced two studs... if you're going to have problems it will be with the threads themselves. Do your best to get the studs seated as well as possible, but don't worry about torquing the studs by themselves.
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