I just got a supra turbo i need help please!!! - Page 13

bradenman1 · 02-28-2010, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

Nah, you'd just be crying and sweating with bloody knuckles by the time you do get it off... But there are reasons auto makers (not just Toyota) prefer studs.

well i have a numatic impact so maybe not the bloody knuckles lol. i would be really pissed if the threads backed out of the turbow like the exhaust manifold studs did.

what exhaust system would you guys prefer? i know a full 3" is recomended i may be able to have a straight pipe exhaust made for me depending on the cost. If i did this just straight pipe exhaust would it harm anything with the engine? and how much more power would it provide than a normal name brand cat back with a DP and high flow cat?

im still just browsing options for upgrades, i made a thread to get some opinions but it is failing pretty bad so far lol

im for sure getting an apexi intake and if my raidator doesnt clean out well enough after i have it flushed ill be investing in some type of aluminum radiator, but i have no idea which brands to trust, or brands that actually provide a considerable upgrade in cooling vs. the stock one.

cre · 03-02-2010, 01:58 AM

That'd be pneumatic.

And you're going to have a hell of a time reaching any of the studs with the engine in the car with it.

For my exhaust I just bought a Borla muffler and had a local shop make and hang the pipe and weld the muffler on. I think I spent $200 on the muffler and about $300 on the piping and welding.

I've been running a Koyo Aluminum racing rad for a 1JZ. You have to make a couple braces out of some aluminum stock and trim the lower bushings by a bit, but it's probably the least expensive option out there if you shop around and it works very well.

bradenman1 · 03-02-2010, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

That'd be pneumatic.

And you're going to have a hell of a time reaching any of the studs with the engine in the car with it.

For my exhaust I just bought a Borla muffler and had a local shop make and hang the pipe and weld the muffler on. I think I spent $200 on the muffler and about $300 on the piping and welding.

I've been running a Koyo Aluminum racing rad for a 1JZ. You have to make a couple braces out of some aluminum stock and trim the lower bushings by a bit, but it's probably the least expensive option out there if you shop around and it works very well.

Iv heard some bad things about minike around here and iv seen the welding their welder does. Its pretty shitty he left 3 holes in a buddy of mines exhaust all he did was hit it with a mig a few times and he's like there ya go. Leaving a crack arouns the muffler inlet wide open .

Hmm I may have to look into that. I was looking at the fluidlyne or what ever its called stock duel row replacement. Not sure about it though its pretty expensive lol

I was thinking about going maybe 1jz, or 2jz after this engine goes out (hopefully not anytime with thew next 6 months) but I have no clue where to get one and what all is needed to do a swap succesfully the first time lol

Speaking of rechasing threads I'm having powerfab rechase the threads on the turbo that I messed up. They got me boltsa I couldn't get ahold of them eareley enough this morning due to school, but ill see how they work. Ohh and I got my exhaust manifold : ) I'm going to have powerfab send it to therew ceramic coating people and have it coated before I install it. Ill keep you up todate with some pics soon. I have the valve coversa back on and replaced that 90 degree bend hose that goews around thew back of the block (pain in the ass!!) Hopefully it will work it looks a little cremped but not too much.

cre · 03-02-2010, 04:13 AM

I asked around and went to a small, privately owned shop for my exhaust.... look around, I'm sure there are plenty of options in your area. If you want to step things up a good bit more then insist on mandrel bends... it'll raise the price a good amount but the pipe is bent without and crushing along the inner curve so it flows even better. On 3" I don't really worry about it as long as they've got a GOOD pipe bender.

Yeah, Fluidyne's a good brand, also there's PWR. The Koyo is a single row, but it does an excellent job and, like I said, it's very affordable.

bradenman1 · 03-02-2010, 03:00 PM

I have also been looking at this exhaust system

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...flers-amp-Cats

Its made in canada and they sell a re routed divorced downpipe also that looks really good. its got a nice sound with a modified magnaflow muffler.

heres a sound clip I found on you tube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2etxwvMAis

im pretty sure im going to get it just waiting for a reply from the owner of the store.

turbophil · 03-03-2010, 05:59 AM

Hi the screws dont need to be that tight, thats why they have those heads ,the gaskets have gone hard from from age and need replaceing, If the engine as a exhaust leak it wont make boost also the cat could be blocked fix the leak then run it with the front pipe off the rest of the system and see if it goes better Phil

cre · 03-04-2010, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbophil

Hi the screws dont need to be that tight, thats why they have those heads ,the gaskets have gone hard from from age and need replaceing,

Indeed, and over tightening can ruin a good seal. The torque spec is 23 INCH lbs... NOT ft lbs. Hand tight is pretty much it; Hence the philips screws versus bolts.

bradenman1 · 03-04-2010, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

Indeed, and over tightening can ruin a good seal. The torque spec is 23 INCH lbs... NOT ft lbs. Hand tight is pretty much it; Hence the philips screws versus bolts.

Well I tightened them down as tight as I could by hand. I got up in the engine bay to make it easier. Do you think I may have over tightened the valve covers

cre · 03-05-2010, 02:18 AM

Well, it's hard to crush new seals by overtighteing by hand with a screwdriver... How old are the seals? They may have cracked or they may be compressed from age (they may still be very flexible in this case, that doesn't mean they're still good).

bradenman1 · 03-05-2010, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

Well, it's hard to crush new seals by overtighteing by hand with a screwdriver... How old are the seals? They may have cracked or they may be compressed from age (they may still be very flexible in this case, that doesn't mean they're still good).

ohh i just bought the seals lol i bought valve cove seals exhaust manifold gasket and all the gaskets for the turbo oil/water/exhaust lines.

i need to buy a new accordian hose lol ill search for the hose on the site i remember reading about where to get one cheap from somewhere

03-02-2010, 01:58 AM	#122
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	That'd be pneumatic. And you're going to have a hell of a time reaching any of the studs with the engine in the car with it. For my exhaust I just bought a Borla muffler and had a local shop make and hang the pipe and weld the muffler on. I think I spent $200 on the muffler and about $300 on the piping and welding. I've been running a Koyo Aluminum racing rad for a 1JZ. You have to make a couple braces out of some aluminum stock and trim the lower bushings by a bit, but it's probably the least expensive option out there if you shop around and it works very well. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

03-02-2010, 04:13 AM	#124
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I asked around and went to a small, privately owned shop for my exhaust.... look around, I'm sure there are plenty of options in your area. If you want to step things up a good bit more then insist on mandrel bends... it'll raise the price a good amount but the pipe is bent without and crushing along the inner curve so it flows even better. On 3" I don't really worry about it as long as they've got a GOOD pipe bender. Yeah, Fluidyne's a good brand, also there's PWR. The Koyo is a single row, but it does an excellent job and, like I said, it's very affordable. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

03-02-2010, 03:00 PM	#125
bradenman1 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: texas Posts: 105	I have also been looking at this exhaust system http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...flers-amp-Cats Its made in canada and they sell a re routed divorced downpipe also that looks really good. its got a nice sound with a modified magnaflow muffler. heres a sound clip I found on you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2etxwvMAis im pretty sure im going to get it just waiting for a reply from the owner of the store. __________________ Cars: 1995 NIssan altima with 2 year old pant on black Drag DR-8 17x7 Wheels with brand new Goodyear Eagle GT's Custom Blue Parking lights with White silverstar head lights JDM Ebay Catback Exhaust. K&N air filter. (Totaled Due To An Idiot) bone stock (for now) 1990 Supra Turbo With a brand new CT-26 Turbo And New Exhaust Manifold. Now With A Brand New Blown Head Gasket Now driving a 99 Nissan Maxima 5spd with the passanger side bashed in from passing out at the wheel nice cars ehh??

03-03-2010, 05:59 AM	#126
turbophil Stock Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: New Zealand Posts: 10	Oil leaks and no power Hi the screws dont need to be that tight, thats why they have those heads ,the gaskets have gone hard from from age and need replaceing, If the engine as a exhaust leak it wont make boost also the cat could be blocked fix the leak then run it with the front pipe off the rest of the system and see if it goes better Phil

03-05-2010, 02:18 AM	#129
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Well, it's hard to crush new seals by overtighteing by hand with a screwdriver... How old are the seals? They may have cracked or they may be compressed from age (they may still be very flexible in this case, that doesn't mean they're still good). __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

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