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Old 01-02-2010, 07:42 PM   #31
oregonjoe
3" Exhaust
 
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Location: Southern Oregon Coast
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Default Startup tips

When I started mine after the rebuild - I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked the engine to get oil pumped into all the berings. The OIL gauge will not move while cranking. It is a really a good idea to remove the plugs but I know that is hard to do.

Then put fuse back in and key on to be sure check engine light goes off while crank.

I used straight 30 weight OIL non detergent for break-in

Once engine fired - quickly turn off to check for coolant and fuel leaks. I know after all the work you want to fire it up and hard rev but don't do that. It takes a while for that 30 weight oil to get heated up so it can get back into the dry berings.

The real trick is to very gradually heat it up. So start and idle for a minute. Then Turn off. Wait for 5 minutes and repeat several times till you start to smell the new paint on the engine. Then idel long enough for the T-Stat to open to check for more leaks.

Most important - DO NOT IDLE FOR LONG IN THE GARAGE. You reallay want to load up rings by driving in shory hard burst so the OIL doen not glaze onto the cylinder walls. Long idles do not push the rings against the cylinders to scrape the oil off before it glazes the walls.

Let us know if you still have questions - good luck
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