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#1 |
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Stock
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tucson/Phoenix
Posts: 12
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no the vibration only happens when i am accelerating, and it is really bad. i looked at the cvs, and they seem to be fine no warpage or bending or anything. its starting to get really bad though, like EVERYTHING vibrates no matter what gear or speed... VERY VERY annoying. so i am thinking it is that prop shaft bearing like dieing or somthing... please let me know if you have more thoughts!
i do not actually know anyone with any equipment like you were listing above. sucks. oh and my exhaust is just kind of hanging there after the first muffler... anyone has stock exhaust they are trying to get rid of let me knoW! |
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#2 |
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12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
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There could well be your vibration, that exhaust. I've had a few cars where after fitting a new 'zorst the pipes have been a bit close to the tunnel & touched on acceleration creating a huge noise & vibration through the floor of the car. Now you've mentioned you have that loose it's first job. (at least try and secure it with old bungees or something so it can't hit the body & test it again.)
__________________
'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!
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#3 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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I missed the vibration issue before... There are several possibilities but the list gets smaller when you say that it is speed and not gear specific.
The first thing I would check is (as MA suggested) the wheels, have them balanced and checked to make sure the wheels aren't warped. Get the alignment checked too. Even if the car goes straight it doesn't mean everything is aligned well. Next, check the carrier bearing in the canter of the drive shaft for excessive play... I don't what's acceptable play in this bearing, mine had over 1/2" of play so I completely ditched it and got a one piece drive shaft. The carrier bearing seems to be one of the more common causes of speed related vibration. If this is fine try to see if there's much play in the output shaft of the transmission (a hard to test this conclusively with the transmission still assembled, but it's worth trying to check). Then, check for play in all of the suspension and steering related ball joints and check all the other suspension bushings. |
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#4 |
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Stock
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tucson/Phoenix
Posts: 12
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ALL IS WELL!
i replaced the center drive shaft and got another differential... I had an LSD in a non turbo supra wich means someone put it there and didnt know what the hell they were doing. it was missing shims and the u joint had like a inch of play. I FIXED IT OMG YAY! ![]()
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#5 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Actually, the N/A had a LSD available as an option. All N/A diffs were 4.30:1. As long as that ratio is the same as what you've got, it's a N/A diff.
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#6 |
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12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
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Glad you found your driveline problem, how's the engine coming?
__________________
'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!
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#7 |
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Stock
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tucson/Phoenix
Posts: 12
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i flushed all of the coolant out and put dexcool in it becuase it has the same properties at the toyota stuff just missing a few things, and its cheaper... there seems to be no more sludgy stuff in the coolant which means no BHG!
replaced both clutch and brake master cylinders, the clutch exploded in the car and the brake in the engine bay but all is well except for the paint and carpet where the brake fluid got. all seems to be well when i am speaking to you now... gonna detail it and give it a good cleaning this weekend and see what other problems i behold. ACTUALLY! none of the cabin lighting is turning on, chekced all the fuses and battery connections... sometimes it used to work and now it jsut does even turn on. the door lights work and the foot well lighting, no ciggarette lighter or dome lights though... |
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#8 |
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3" Exhaust
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 152
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Sounds like wiring, get a wiring diagram for the lights that aren't working and use a DMM or vantage to find the voltage drop from each connection, could be a wire or faulty connection, damn cars are wired like an ant farm.
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