7MGE Engine rebuild

[oregonjoe]

Ran into my first major mistake on the reassembly so far. I thought I could fit this U shape water pipe around the block and firewall with the head ON – NOPE! CAN”T BE DONE.



I am not going to take the head off after the 4+ hours in getting it on.

SO I cut the pipe in part that fits behind the head and put a piece of hose and clamps. Still pretty hard to secure the clamps behind the head but was only 30 minutes and not a head removal.



I point this out so anyone can know – install the water pipe before the head - it will be a lot easier.

[Blackdog]

oh wow thats a valuble tip right there haha well it all looks great so far. Hope it turns out good. Still can't get over how clean your block and head look!!



STICKY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[oregonjoe]

Putting together the Water manifold was straight forward. The various temp senders could only go in one location. Be careful to start both connection hoses before you slide the housing on the studs or you will not get them on afterwards and have to take it off and start over.



Used RTV on all the hose connections after cleaning with Brake Cleaner

[oregonjoe]

Spent a week working on the drivers side wires and hoses. It was mess to figure out so I have documented my findings so they be of assistance in the future.



The key problem is that several lines have to be run though the intake runners before the manifold is installed. Also, there are several things to connect before the manifold is placed.



First off is the Block ground from the battery. It is singly attached to the block next to the lower Air Compressor bracket mount.

Next is the bracket for the Fuel Return hose which is attached to the block in the hole for the old fuel pump. Then mount the Vacuum canister with VAC Switch.



Before installing the Intake runner, you will need to route several lines through the runners BEFORE placing the intake on the head. Run the supply and return fuel lines, IAC Hose from the manifold, and water bypass hose through the runner.

[oregonjoe]

Before installing the Intake runner, you will need to route several lines through the runners BEFORE placing the intake on the head. Run the supply and return fuel lines, IAC Hose from the manifold, and water bypass hose through the runner.



The IAC Hose was tricky – it is an L shaped hose that connects to a nipple on the bottom of the Intake Manifold and runs up to the IAC. You can’t see the nipple once the manifold is installed so its much easier to locate and install it first.

[oregonjoe]

Once the Intake is in place you can place the main wire harness on top and run the connections for the Starter, VAC switches, Transmission Switch, Knock Sensor, and EGR temp down through the runners.



The connectors are color coded so it’s not too hard to match them up. You can reach under and attach the Knock sensor and VAC Can connection under the runners.

[oregonjoe]

A few more connectors



The knock sensor is under the intake manifold. The IAC hose connects to a nipple on the underside of the intake

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

Once the Intake is in place you can place the main wire harness on top and run the connections for the Starter, VAC switches, Transmission Switch, Knock Sensor, and EGR temp down through the runners.

Attachment 2369 Attachment 2370

The connectors are color coded so it’s not too hard to match them up. You can reach under and attach the Knock sensor and VAC Can connection under the runners.

Attachment 2371 Attachment 2372 Attachment 2373

is this the same wire? and where does it go?