7MGE Engine rebuild

[Bill UK]

Looks like the non-turbo engine has a dipstick tube that screw into the bock with no support bracket.

[oregonjoe]

Originally Posted by Bill UK

Looks like the non-turbo engine has a dipstick tube that screw into the bock with no support bracket.

Thanks for the hekp Bill UK

I agree, the turbo dipstick is different then the NA. The turbo appears to come in 2 parts and is press fit into Block? With a bracket to keep it from moving in or out so all you need is a O ring?

However, from this close-up of my NA dipstick –



it does not have any threads and does not have any way to be secured. It inserts to the second level but still fits pretty loose and moves around even with a good amount of RTV. So I am wondering is there is some other type of adhesive I should be using here as RTV alone can not keep it secured.



When I pulled it out - it was in there very tight.

[oregonjoe]

Ran into my first major mistake on the reassembly so far. I thought I could fit this U shape water pipe around the block and firewall with the head ON – NOPE! CAN”T BE DONE.



I am not going to take the head off after the 4+ hours in getting it on.

SO I cut the pipe in part that fits behind the head and put a piece of hose and clamps. Still pretty hard to secure the clamps behind the head but was only 30 minutes and not a head removal.



I point this out so anyone can know – install the water pipe before the head - it will be a lot easier.

[Blackdog]

oh wow thats a valuble tip right there haha well it all looks great so far. Hope it turns out good. Still can't get over how clean your block and head look!!



STICKY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[oregonjoe]

Putting together the Water manifold was straight forward. The various temp senders could only go in one location. Be careful to start both connection hoses before you slide the housing on the studs or you will not get them on afterwards and have to take it off and start over.



Used RTV on all the hose connections after cleaning with Brake Cleaner

[oregonjoe]

Spent a week working on the drivers side wires and hoses. It was mess to figure out so I have documented my findings so they be of assistance in the future.



The key problem is that several lines have to be run though the intake runners before the manifold is installed. Also, there are several things to connect before the manifold is placed.



First off is the Block ground from the battery. It is singly attached to the block next to the lower Air Compressor bracket mount.

Next is the bracket for the Fuel Return hose which is attached to the block in the hole for the old fuel pump. Then mount the Vacuum canister with VAC Switch.



Before installing the Intake runner, you will need to route several lines through the runners BEFORE placing the intake on the head. Run the supply and return fuel lines, IAC Hose from the manifold, and water bypass hose through the runner.

[oregonjoe]

Before installing the Intake runner, you will need to route several lines through the runners BEFORE placing the intake on the head. Run the supply and return fuel lines, IAC Hose from the manifold, and water bypass hose through the runner.



The IAC Hose was tricky – it is an L shaped hose that connects to a nipple on the bottom of the Intake Manifold and runs up to the IAC. You can’t see the nipple once the manifold is installed so its much easier to locate and install it first.