7MGE Engine rebuild

[oregonjoe]

Now I can finally get to the valve covers and head bolts. Sent wife down to parts store to get the special HEX socket to remove head bolts. Yes – it does need to be 3/8” to fit into the recess and past the CAM shafts. I decided to leave the cams in place and not remove them from the head so the machine shop can have the whole assembly to look it. No bearings on the CAMS so wanted them to check tolerances when doing the valves.

Head came off easy after following the correct loosing sequence. Put all the bolts in postal flat rate box with holes punched so I would not mix them up. But have since realized that was unnecessary since I was going to need new bolts anyway.

On that topic, as I was removing the bolts most were tight but number 5 came undone almost without any torque. Mighty suspicious ! The number 2 bolt came out hard and when I looked at it - was not clean and dry like all the rest but showed signs of corrosion.

After removing head noticed coolant in the number 2 head bolt hole – not good. After cleaning the hole further looks like a crack in the threads of the hole to the water jacket. Going to have to remove engine and take block to machine shop to have it checked. I am thinking of going to studs and sealant in the bolt hole may work.

The Number 6 cylinder defiantly had a leak between the water ports and cylinder. The valves were reddish brown while all the other cylinders were whitish tan. The other cylinders were clean an shiny while number 6 has been burning water for a while. The head gasket has a significant oval shape extending to the water jacket – YUP BLOWN GASKET.

I was surprised to see how clean the other cylinders looked after 20 years. I will have the shop check out the block but looks like all it need is some cleaning an a hone to be good as new.

[oregonjoe]

Well, since the block has to come out – in comes the hoist. I put a jack under the oil pan and transmission and unbolted the bell housing and engine mounts. I bolted the chains to the engine mount holes since I did not want to use the head bolt holes if one of them was already cracked. Balanced just fine and lifted right out by my self. This engine lift is a rally great tool you only get to use a few time in your life but it really works.



Now I get to look at the clutch and flywheel. Going to need some resurfacing and the clutch disk was worn to the bone – time to replace along with the throw out bearing and pilot bearing



Got the engine on the stand and upside down to remove the oil pump. After unbolting one bolt it would not budge so I removed the pump drive shaft still not budge. Figured was a pressure fit so used a screw driver on the block to pry it off.



Next it was time to pop the pistons. The cylinders had no ridges so they came out really easy. Bagged each one in numbered bags. The rod bearings looked a little worn but were very even with no hat spots. The crank looked very good too so hopefully it can be reused. I am going to take it to the shop in the block to have them check tolerances and we will see what the verdict is on the head bolt hole crack and crank. Cross my fingers.



A week of nights and two cases later