Crank Pulley Removal . . . again

Paul_NJ · 03-18-2009, 03:15 AM

Has anyone ever made up their own SST to hold the crank pulley while breaking the nut? Seems like you could make up a steel disk, drill 2 holes to match the threaded holes in the pulley, and a larger hole in the center to pass thru the 17mm? socket to the crank nut, then weld a short stub of 2"? pipe to it, after milling a couple flats on the end of the stub. I've got a big old 2 inch combination wrench to hold the flats while passing a deep socket on a breaker bar thru to the pulley bolt. Probably wouldn't take more time to make it than getting that ^%#@* starter off and then back on.

Just wondering . . .

Bill UK · 03-18-2009, 08:11 PM

I think we need something like this Paul; a member on the UK Supra forum made this. I'm hoping to measure up my pulley this weekend to get a few dimensions to start fabricating one. I'll keep you posted as soon as I have some accurate dimensions, especially the 8mm threaded hole pitches.

Bill UK · 03-18-2009, 09:01 PM

This is one of the main dimensions I need to find out.

Paul_NJ · 03-18-2009, 09:52 PM

Bill

That's excellent, and much easier than I was thinking! Tomorrow I'll get a couple metric bolts and thread them into the holes on my crank pulley, and measure across them. Seems like one could measure across the bolts outside-outside and subtract, or inside-inside and add, the bolt diameter. If the drilled holes are a little oversize I don't think it would matter.

Probably need a tap also, as those holes are probably pretty crusty and need to be chased first. There's an industrial supply nearby that carries metric fasteners. My knowledge of metric fasteners is pretty shaky, I guess you're saying there are there different pitches? I'll go thru what bolts I've removed so far and see if anything matches. I'll let you know if I find the right bolts.

Thanks!

Paul

Bill UK · 03-18-2009, 10:32 PM

Sorry when I said pitch, I was referring to the hole location. The thread pitch I would guess is a bog standard 8mm metric, what ever that is. Although the UK went metric many years ago, I still think in imperial, Whitworth, BSP, BA, BSF are all threads with fond memories of the past when working in a machine shop. Jugging by the method you are going to calculate the hole positions, I would guess that you have some sort of mechanical experience or is that just commonsense.

Paul_NJ · 03-19-2009, 03:37 AM

Bill

I just looked up 8 mm threads, and they are either coarse (M8x1.25) or fine (M8x1). In non-metric terms, the coarse is about 20 threads per inch, and the fine is about 25 1/2 threads per inch. I think I can decide which using a U.S. 1/4-20 bolt. I'll let you know if I figure something out tomorrow. Geez, I had two people ask me today why I was spending so much time messing around with that old Toyota. The nerve!

All of those British sizes always mystified me. Of course I never could figure out pounds and shillings, and quid, and farthings, and crowns, and all of that either.

I have a good friend in Ulverston, up in the Lake District, and used to take my kids over there every couple of years. Beautiful country.

I just have a lot of unrelated information tucked away, I guess, which only once in a good while has some practical application. I worked as an engineer for alot of years in oil refineries and gas plants though, where you're always trying to figure the simplest way to do something.

After looking at your images more closely I realized I don't see how the long square rod holds the ring without getting in the way of the socket passing thru the center of the ring to the nut.

Paul_NJ · 03-19-2009, 04:42 PM

I've been studying the timing belt removal procedure in the TSM, and it seems like they remove the belt, then cam timing gears, then they reinstall the gears, and finally put the new belt on. Why remove the gears at all? Is it just to replace the seals? If the seals are OK, seems like it would be a lot easier to just switch belts.

I've got everything stripped down to the crank pulley, but I can't budge it with a long breaker bar, even without "blocking" the pulley. Thought I'd try the easiest way before making up a SST. Car's in 5th with the emergency brake on . . . and it's not moving yet. Maybe need to start dosing with penetrating oil and try again.

Starting to wonder again about making the other repairs and forgetting about changing the timing belt.

Advice would be welcomed.

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03-18-2009, 03:15 AM	#1
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	Has anyone ever made up their own SST to hold the crank pulley while breaking the nut? Seems like you could make up a steel disk, drill 2 holes to match the threaded holes in the pulley, and a larger hole in the center to pass thru the 17mm? socket to the crank nut, then weld a short stub of 2"? pipe to it, after milling a couple flats on the end of the stub. I've got a big old 2 inch combination wrench to hold the flats while passing a deep socket on a breaker bar thru to the pulley bolt. Probably wouldn't take more time to make it than getting that ^%#@* starter off and then back on. Just wondering . . .

03-18-2009, 08:11 PM	#2
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	I think we need something like this Paul; a member on the UK Supra forum made this. I'm hoping to measure up my pulley this weekend to get a few dimensions to start fabricating one. I'll keep you posted as soon as I have some accurate dimensions, especially the 8mm threaded hole pitches.

03-18-2009, 09:01 PM	#3
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	This is one of the main dimensions I need to find out.

03-18-2009, 09:52 PM	#4
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	Bill That's excellent, and much easier than I was thinking! Tomorrow I'll get a couple metric bolts and thread them into the holes on my crank pulley, and measure across them. Seems like one could measure across the bolts outside-outside and subtract, or inside-inside and add, the bolt diameter. If the drilled holes are a little oversize I don't think it would matter. Probably need a tap also, as those holes are probably pretty crusty and need to be chased first. There's an industrial supply nearby that carries metric fasteners. My knowledge of metric fasteners is pretty shaky, I guess you're saying there are there different pitches? I'll go thru what bolts I've removed so far and see if anything matches. I'll let you know if I find the right bolts. Thanks! Paul

03-18-2009, 10:32 PM	#5
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	Sorry when I said pitch, I was referring to the hole location. The thread pitch I would guess is a bog standard 8mm metric, what ever that is. Although the UK went metric many years ago, I still think in imperial, Whitworth, BSP, BA, BSF are all threads with fond memories of the past when working in a machine shop. Jugging by the method you are going to calculate the hole positions, I would guess that you have some sort of mechanical experience or is that just commonsense.

03-19-2009, 03:37 AM	#6
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	Bill I just looked up 8 mm threads, and they are either coarse (M8x1.25) or fine (M8x1). In non-metric terms, the coarse is about 20 threads per inch, and the fine is about 25 1/2 threads per inch. I think I can decide which using a U.S. 1/4-20 bolt. I'll let you know if I figure something out tomorrow. Geez, I had two people ask me today why I was spending so much time messing around with that old Toyota. The nerve! All of those British sizes always mystified me. Of course I never could figure out pounds and shillings, and quid, and farthings, and crowns, and all of that either. I have a good friend in Ulverston, up in the Lake District, and used to take my kids over there every couple of years. Beautiful country. I just have a lot of unrelated information tucked away, I guess, which only once in a good while has some practical application. I worked as an engineer for alot of years in oil refineries and gas plants though, where you're always trying to figure the simplest way to do something. After looking at your images more closely I realized I don't see how the long square rod holds the ring without getting in the way of the socket passing thru the center of the ring to the nut.

03-19-2009, 04:42 PM	#7
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	I've been studying the timing belt removal procedure in the TSM, and it seems like they remove the belt, then cam timing gears, then they reinstall the gears, and finally put the new belt on. Why remove the gears at all? Is it just to replace the seals? If the seals are OK, seems like it would be a lot easier to just switch belts. I've got everything stripped down to the crank pulley, but I can't budge it with a long breaker bar, even without "blocking" the pulley. Thought I'd try the easiest way before making up a SST. Car's in 5th with the emergency brake on . . . and it's not moving yet. Maybe need to start dosing with penetrating oil and try again. Starting to wonder again about making the other repairs and forgetting about changing the timing belt. Advice would be welcomed.