Crank Pulley Removal . . . again
 

I'm on 135,000 miles with an original timing belt, so while I'll pulling things apart to replace the oil seals on top, I thought I'd break the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule.

I searched and found a helpful thread several years ago discussing how to get the crank pulley off, debating the pros and cons of the "starter bump method" vs the "block the flywheel" method. Neither excites me much. What I wish to avoid most is removing the starter. Unhappy memories.

I've got a pretty strong 3/4" drive air impact wrench. Has anyone had success getting the nut off that way? I'd rather pull the radiator, if necessairy, that that lousy starter.

Then again maybe I should stick to the "if it isn't broke . . ." rule.

you could use the 3/4 inch impact gun...some people like to used the electric 3/4 inch impact gun....but use what you have and start from there

If you remove it with your air tool, you will still need to block the flywheel in order to apply 195ft/lbs to the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

Hmmm, you're right of course. Hadn't thought that far ahead. Back to removing the starter. Gettin that one back bolt out is a nightmare.

Thanks

Err i just got a 3/4 socket, a power bar, put the car into 5th pulled handbrake on hard, applied brakes hard and heaved away. (someone else was in the car obviously)

Popped off like a cork.

also, with the rattle gun you wouldn't need to block the flywheel as they don't provide constant load rather a jolting action (think twisting left and right constantly) to crack nuts off.

NOTE: have a ceramic clutch so maybe a normal one would slip, but i doubt it.

getting the pulley off can be done , getting the pulley back on and tight better be done right or you'll wreck the key on the crank shaft over time with little warning . rut roh

there's really only 1 moving part in an electric motor . imagine that .

no BHG's

Has anyone ever made up their own SST to hold the crank pulley while breaking the nut? Seems like you could make up a steel disk, drill 2 holes to match the threaded holes in the pulley, and a larger hole in the center to pass thru the 17mm? socket to the crank nut, then weld a short stub of 2"? pipe to it, after milling a couple flats on the end of the stub. I've got a big old 2 inch combination wrench to hold the flats while passing a deep socket on a breaker bar thru to the pulley bolt. Probably wouldn't take more time to make it than getting that ^%#@* starter off and then back on.

Just wondering . . .

I think we need something like this Paul; a member on the UK Supra forum made this. I'm hoping to measure up my pulley this weekend to get a few dimensions to start fabricating one. I'll keep you posted as soon as I have some accurate dimensions, especially the 8mm threaded hole pitches.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...ToolUK2jpg.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...lleyToolUK.jpg

This is one of the main dimensions I need to find out.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...mensions-1.jpg