Electrical question

MikeMcSomething · 07-19-2005, 03:46 AM

Hey guys im new here and have a problem -
I recently started fixing up an 88 N/A that had a battery blow up and melt the fuse block, igniter, and parts of the wiring harness. I repaired the wires, put in a new igniter and fuse block, and replaced the dry-rotted intake hose and vacuum lines, and replaced the distributor. Now when i start the car, it runs great for about 3 seconds, and then dies on me. Has anyone had something like this happen to them?

MikeMcSomething · 07-19-2005, 03:50 AM

Fuel injectors are good, all sparks are good, timing is fine - the engine runs beautifully and then just quits, and I can start it immediately after it dies with no problems.

07-19-2005, 05:05 AM

Check fuel pressure, and possible fuel pump not getting voltage except in the 'start' mode.

MikeMcSomething · 07-19-2005, 08:05 AM

We jumpered the fuel pump so it gets a solid 12V constantly, fuel pressure seems fine as the car can be started as soon as it shuts off.

suprra_girl · 07-19-2005, 10:26 AM

have you tried a diagnostic yet?

that may tell you what area is malfunctioning

MikeMcSomething · 07-21-2005, 09:51 AM

Negative, haven't really been able to tow the thing to a dealership. I heard its possibly fuel, and that my cold start injector fires enough fuel for the vehicle to run for a few seconds and then the regular injectors can't pick up the slack, how does that sound?

suprra_girl · 07-21-2005, 11:06 AM

don't need a dealership for our cool cars

in the engine bay on the strut you should see

jump T & E1 or TE1 & E1

go turn the key on to Ignition and watch your check engine light

if it blinks quickly and constantly no codes

if it blinks in random fashion.. you have codes

eg. 21 = blink blink.... blink

34 = blink blink blink..... blink blink blink blink

let us know what codes ya come back with

MikeMcSomething · 07-22-2005, 08:02 AM

We tested that awhile ago and we dont get any codes when the car dies. When we jumper the diagnostic terminals the car actually runs for about 6-7 seconds instead of 2-3, its a consistent improvement in the run time kinda wierd.

suprra_girl · 07-22-2005, 09:40 AM

when you do a diagnostic you shouldn't have the car running, the key should be to the "on" position but not running

what does your check engine light do?

for the car to stall there must be a code that the ecu has stored

07-19-2005, 10:26 AM	#5
suprra_girl 7M POWAH! ;) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Zealand Posts: 2,312	have you tried a diagnostic yet? that may tell you what area is malfunctioning __________________ Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" Do a diagnostic first!

07-21-2005, 11:06 AM	#7
suprra_girl 7M POWAH! ;) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Zealand Posts: 2,312	don't need a dealership for our cool cars in the engine bay on the strut you should see jump T & E1 or TE1 & E1 go turn the key on to Ignition and watch your check engine light if it blinks quickly and constantly no codes if it blinks in random fashion.. you have codes eg. 21 = blink blink.... blink 34 = blink blink blink..... blink blink blink blink let us know what codes ya come back with __________________ Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" Do a diagnostic first!

07-22-2005, 09:40 AM	#9
suprra_girl 7M POWAH! ;) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Zealand Posts: 2,312	when you do a diagnostic you shouldn't have the car running, the key should be to the "on" position but not running what does your check engine light do? for the car to stall there must be a code that the ecu has stored __________________ Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" Do a diagnostic first!

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07-19-2005, 03:46 AM	#1
MikeMcSomething Stock Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 10	Hey guys im new here and have a problem - I recently started fixing up an 88 N/A that had a battery blow up and melt the fuse block, igniter, and parts of the wiring harness. I repaired the wires, put in a new igniter and fuse block, and replaced the dry-rotted intake hose and vacuum lines, and replaced the distributor. Now when i start the car, it runs great for about 3 seconds, and then dies on me. Has anyone had something like this happen to them?

07-19-2005, 03:50 AM	#2
MikeMcSomething Stock Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 10	Fuel injectors are good, all sparks are good, timing is fine - the engine runs beautifully and then just quits, and I can start it immediately after it dies with no problems.

07-19-2005, 05:05 AM	#3
Guest Guest Posts: n/a	Check fuel pressure, and possible fuel pump not getting voltage except in the 'start' mode.

07-19-2005, 08:05 AM	#4
MikeMcSomething Stock Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 10	We jumpered the fuel pump so it gets a solid 12V constantly, fuel pressure seems fine as the car can be started as soon as it shuts off.

07-21-2005, 09:51 AM	#6
MikeMcSomething Stock Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 10	Negative, haven't really been able to tow the thing to a dealership. I heard its possibly fuel, and that my cold start injector fires enough fuel for the vehicle to run for a few seconds and then the regular injectors can't pick up the slack, how does that sound?

07-22-2005, 08:02 AM	#8
MikeMcSomething Stock Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 10	We tested that awhile ago and we dont get any codes when the car dies. When we jumper the diagnostic terminals the car actually runs for about 6-7 seconds instead of 2-3, its a consistent improvement in the run time kinda wierd.