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-   -   My MKIII - My Project - Need a few answers (http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/12121-my-mkiii-my-project-need-a-few-answers.html)

Grandavi 08-28-2008 12:20 AM

My MKIII - My Project - Need a few answers
 
First of all, I put my initial questions in here:
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...questions.html

Now, I have pics too! :)

My new car...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/car1.jpg

http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/car2.jpg

http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/car3.jpg

http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/car4.jpg

http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/car5.jpg

Grandavi 08-28-2008 12:21 AM

The Interior...
(2 buttons bubbled on A/C)http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/interior1.jpg

http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/interior2.jpg

shortened shifter...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/interior3.jpg

No idea what the button on the far left does to the lights, I think the toggle on the right is for the driving lights...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/interior4.jpg
Didnt realise the steering wheel telescoped. The appraisal guy told me : )
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/interior5.jpg

http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/interior6.jpg

a close-up of the rim.. is this mfg by... LSR? (dont know make of rims).
I do have the stock rims as well, which I will have to repaint or recondition.. not sure what you do with the originals...http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/tire1.jpg

Grandavi 08-28-2008 12:22 AM

The Questions...

1. Anyone know what this is? The black "swing latch" on the door post...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/insidedoor1.jpg

2. Gotta replace the wipers... who would leave these on a nice car???
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/wipers1.jpg

3. Got a dent in the targa top (pass side). Dont know if this is an easy fix or even if I should bother fixing it...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/targadent1.jpg

4. First pic... a. shows the middle support for the rear spoiler. Second pic b. shows that the "bushing/gasket/whateveritscalled" is not aligned correctly. Think that I can ignore this as there doesnt seem to be any water leakage.

a.
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/rearspoiler1.jpg
b. overhead view looking down on front part of spoiler.
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/rearspoiler2.jpg

5. I want to either take these off and recondition them, or get new ones...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/sidewindowtrim1.jpg

6. Body work to do... (I think I may end up having to repaint the entire car if they cant match it properly... just to get it right... sigh)

a. Bondo... poor job... you can see the sanding scratches... poorly done!
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/rearwheelbody1.jpg

b. above was top of wheel well, rear pass. side. This one is worse... above driver side rear wheel compartment.
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/rearwheelbody2.jpg

c. Only rust spot on the outside. (*note - I said outside) Front of drivers side tire
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/frontrust1.jpg

d. 3 pics to show this... it never occured to me that I should open this door...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/insidehatchrust1.jpghttp://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/insidehatchrust2.jpg

Rust right thru the wheel well. YIKES! Gotta fix that before going thru puddles or on dusty roads. Anyone know a quick way to fix this? I can poke right through the metal here.. haven't checked other side, but would assume same issue.
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/insidehatchrust3.jpg

7. BOOM BOOM - sorry... these babies gotta go...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/boombox1.jpghttp://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/boombox2.jpg

8. Driver's seat repair.. minor. Anyone know of a way to fix a cigarette burn hole (shown below)
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/driverseat1.jpg

Motor compartment shots in a new message... thats my biggie concern. Going to shoot now.

mnewxv 08-28-2008 12:46 AM

ok lookin good. Really never liked the years before they changed the taillights but that color, those wheels and spoiler, wow its sexy. Ok, now onto the good stuff. Nice short throw shifter, must help a decent ammount. Theres a little stain on the passanger seat, id like rent a steam cleaner and just go over everthing. but yeah, switches from left to right: foglamps, cruise, rear defrost, and the one on the right is custom. I noticed in the next pic you can see a red and blue wire coming from behind there going into the engine bay, follow it, might be what it goes to.

for the wipers, id take the arms off and sand/paint them. the dent on the top doesnt look too bad. for the spoiler 'gasket' i would be a stickler and not be able to keep it that way, but if it doesnt bug you and doesnt leak it seems ok.

side of the window things, id jus repaint em.

sucks about the body, rust, and paint. good luck, this isnt my area!

yeah, mtx subs, lot of kids like em cause they arent too expensive and make a lot of noise, to the untrained ear. id lose em.

for the cigarette burn go to an upholterer an see what they say.

waiting for engine pics! :x:

edit: almost forgot! READ THE MANUAL! that should explain that door latch thing for you.

Grandavi 08-28-2008 02:03 AM

Woot.. this car is just too much fun. I hope that wears off after a while before I start killing the car by enjoying it.

Those wires you mentioned seem to be from the sub. I think he has it wired directly to the battery. Those go.. cause they bug me (the wires, amp and sub).

The wipers and side moldings by the windows definitely get painted. But I think I may hold off a bit to see if I repaint the car. If I do repaint the entire car, I will be going custom and I have a design for a monarch wing style side paint that I may use. (if i get the time, I will add it to the char via photoshop as that is what I do for a living... (digital imaging specialist).



And now.. the engine compartment (this is kinda the scary area)

First a little background. I am not sure if this is the original engine. Its hard to tell from the repair bills. In Jan. 04 he paid 5000+ for the engine replacement/rebuild and 5 months later paid 3000+ to rebuild that (they had to regrind the crank and redo the rods.. so I am assuming he ran it dry). At that time he also replaced the turbo. Following all those repairs, his dad found out about his tickets.. so from that point on, he was on his own. (therefore, couldnt afford to drive it).

The engine repairs were done 22k kms ago (not sure what that is in miles... 10k miles??). Who knows how much damage he did in that time. But I do know its seeping oil somewhere and it may be the turbo... ah well.. lets look at what I could show on camera as i try to plan upgrading/repairing it.

All the pictures come below the comments:

The engine compartment (my troubles seem to be mostly on this side)
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine1.jpg

Now.. what the heck is missing here???
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine2.jpg

http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine3.jpg

Now... I am assuming there is a trick to servicing this air filter (is that what it is?) Also, I read in other posts that this may not be the most efficient air filter to run, and if so, I would like to upgrade it. My main concern in this engine is longevity and fuel economy and power (in that order). (pic below)
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine4.jpg
Also, in the pic above... I have read about changing that pipe on the left side I think... but am not familiar enough with this engine yet. I understand downpipes and turbo cutoff valves etc... in my head, but when looking at the engine, I feel I have to identify each component/hose before I start anything. I remember seeing some diagrams of this engine so I will hunt those down. Any upgrade suggestions are appreciated!

Oil is below.. cant tell if its leaking or from someone missing when filling the engine with oil (this is the top of the motor towards the back of the engine compartment). Should I be concerned?
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine5.jpg
close up of above picture below:
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine6.jpg

YIKES... look at the engine pic below.. who could love their car and leave it like this??? (I plan to replace the hose, unless there is a nifty fix somewhere that is better than factory)
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine7.jpg

After an hour run with the car, smoke (not lots) was coming from the area that you see this wet hose at... Im not sure what the hose is for yet, but again.. how can people leave the hose alone when its that obvious? (pic is below)
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine8.jpg

close up of the above area in the picture below:
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine9.jpg

Oil Dipstick - now I see why that post is stickied... I have no idea how much oil is in the car!! (this dipstick is dry btw...)
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/dipstick1.jpg

Wet...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine10.jpg

Finally... there is some oil (I think) in here.. but may be spillage from filling the engine with oil.. hard to tell without ripping off everything on top of the motor...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/engine11.jpg

So, any suggestions will be considered seriously. I plan to perfect this car over a 1 year period.. step by step as I can afford. Overall, I want to keep the engine modifications/repairs under 4k.

Oh yeah... I have the original warranty book and drivers manual that came with the car in excellent condition. Was happy about that!

Thanks for reading!

Grandavi 08-28-2008 03:30 PM

I read the manual entirely, cover to cover and still cant find what that black swing thingy on the door post is...

http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/insidedoor1.jpg

I also was reading thru the "Drifting" area. lol! Why would anyone want to drift one of these, I mean... I believe it can be done easily (I did one "burn-out" to see how well it can do them... I would say... it does it very well) but the car is so damn heavy, if you get swung back its likely gonna go the other way.. :)

I also have a previous post here:http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...questions.html
as well my Show & Tell post was here: (just was my first post) http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ew-forums.html

mnewxv 08-28-2008 04:07 PM

not sure about the latch but we all have it.

Chambers 08-28-2008 04:25 PM

I think the latch is for the seat belts, so they wind back up when the door is opened, the one on my car never worked, it was broken. I even replaced it and it broke again, so I find my self guiding the seat belt back up every time I leave my car.

You have a nice car there, rust and dents in all. If you plan to pull the door louvers you will have to pull some of the interior panels off to get the bolts holding them on, as for the rust in the rear, check under your spare tire as well, for now just get some WD-40 and hose every metal surface down in the rear, and in the valleys on the outside of the hatch weather stripping on the car side.

Good luck.

Grandavi 08-28-2008 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chambers (Post 62400)
I think the latch is for the seat belts, so they wind back up when the door is opened, the one on my car never worked, it was broken. I even replaced it and it broke again, so I find my self guiding the seat belt back up every time I leave my car.

You have a nice car there, rust and dents in all. If you plan to pull the door louvers you will have to pull some of the interior panels off to get the bolts holding them on, as for the rust in the rear, check under your spare tire as well, for now just get some WD-40 and hose every metal surface down in the rear, and in the valleys on the outside of the hatch weather stripping on the car side.

Good luck.

Yeah, I think you may be right about the latch being for the seat belts. It gets pushed sideways everytime the door closes. Probably just releases the seat belt lock.

Found no rust anywhere except that one wheelwell (other is perfectly fine) and the one small spot on the front of the driver's side fender. Hoping that the paint can get matched relatively close once that is repaired.

Really wound this baby out this afternoon... it sure can move... but afterwards I got that smell of burning oil. I got some repairs to do on this motor without a doubt, so I think its probably smart to start purchasing all the parts I will need before I start replacing them (do it all in one shot). I am definitely doing a turbo timer, and will probably mod that downpipe (still dont totally understand what's what under the hood, but I'll get it all down pat soon... ). Now I sit and ponder... did they just throw a 5th gear in this puppy just for those that want to attempt 200 MPH? lol. Im having trouble keeping it at 100kph (60 MPH) in 5th...

Scionguy 08-28-2008 08:50 PM

haha very nice. after i get my 89 n/a all restored im selling it and buying a turbo model instead lol. if you wd-40 those rust spots, make sure to tell the painter, or he'll hate you for it, i work at a piant shop, wd-40,wax,oil is not our friend lol. the more you spool that turbo, the warmer its guna be, so that lil bit of oil on things is just burning off, you prob stop smelling it soon or if their are leaks keep an eye on your oil level then, dont wana burn that turbo up lol. i hear that replacing that downpipe makes you spool quit a bit quicker and pull alot harder, if you do the downipe youll probably want a boost controller to prevent spike too, im sure someone will back this up or correct me lol.

Grandavi 08-28-2008 09:04 PM

The whole turbo issue is going to be a "Read/Get Advice/Plan/get plan approved/do" issue as this is my first ever turbo vehicle. This forum is an excellent resource, but actually having parts in your hand is the best teacher. Its just not the area I want to make a mistake in.

I think to do it properly, i need to change the downpipe, add(?) a wastegate and blowoff valve?, putting on a timer (regardless, that is my first thing to do), and I dont know anything regarding spikes. (think the timer solves that, but not sure)

Its a learning curve :)

Scionguy 08-28-2008 09:12 PM

a turbo timer keeps your ignition running even after you've turned off the key for a preset amount of time depending on driving time and style to allow the turbo to cool back to a normal level before ceasing oil flw to it. a blow off releases psi when the throttle plate is closed to reduce/prevent backspin compressor surge ( imagine throwing your trans from 4th to reverse.. lol) the wastegate regulates boost pressure and spike, boost spike is when the turbo boosts past a preset point becuase the Wastgate cant dump quickly enoug, i think his is one of the last terms im still fuzzy on. but a downpipe should be done with a diff exhuast, but that will reduce turbo lag, and increase your turbo's potential to a certain point. a boost controller helps works with a wastegate by telling it when to open, close, intsead of just the spring in the wastgate. that help? haha and ive never owned a turbo car, but ima own 3 sooner or later guna boost my xb, 2jz swap my ranchero, and get the turbo supra lmao.

Grandavi 08-28-2008 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scionguy (Post 62421)
a turbo timer keeps your ignition running even after you've turned off the key for a preset amount of time depending on driving time and style to allow the turbo to cool back to a normal level before ceasing oil flw to it. a blow off releases psi when the throttle plate is closed to reduce/prevent backspin compressor surge ( imagine throwing your trans from 4th to reverse.. lol) the wastegate regulates boost pressure and spike, boost spike is when the turbo boosts past a preset point becuase the Wastgate cant dump quickly enoug, i think his is one of the last terms im still fuzzy on. but a downpipe should be done with a diff exhuast, but that will reduce turbo lag, and increase your turbo's potential to a certain point. a boost controller helps works with a wastegate by telling it when to open, close, intsead of just the spring in the wastgate. that help? haha and ive never owned a turbo car, but ima own 3 sooner or later guna boost my xb, 2jz swap my ranchero, and get the turbo supra lmao.

Starting to think I should plan on doing turbo and exhaust at the same time. If I do the exhaust, I may be able to get rid of the catalytic converter.. but that would lead down a whole new path as I think all the emmission controls have to be fiddled with if that happens. Of course I wont know until I map it all out. Currently searching thru forums for diagrams or links to for the turbo and exhaust.

Going to swap out the current wet air filter for this one (unless someone screams DONT!). I just ran out to the car and checked.. currently it has a K&N filter (the wet one). The only thing I dont like about it is that it uses the oil and cleaner (think its 10 bucks per refill) and I would rather have the higher performing "zero maintenance" apexi... if your gonna do it.. get the best... lol. However.. saying that... is it worth going from K&N to Apexi?
http://www.autosportz.com/airintake_...upra_apexi.htm
If you look at the engine compartment pics... (earlier in this area), my K&N is inside the stock air filter housing. Is that okay?

Also, I have noticed that bar that is sometimes seen going across the top of the motor from strut to strut. What is that bar. I see it, but no info on it (not knowing what its called makes it hard to search out)

And... this may be a stupid question... but what does the hose that comes from the "3000 pipe" and goes into the pass side engine compartment wall for?

Looked at changing the intercooler from stock to HKS.. but at 1000.00... gonna be happy with what I got. Besides.. this is my daily driver, I wont be racing it after I get the newness out of my system (i jumped out of a 1996 Ford Taurus into this... lol)

MK3PIMP 08-28-2008 10:34 PM

get a 3'' downpipe with a full 3'' exhaust with a 3'' high flow cat and get a intake ngk plugs wires boost gauge boost controller 2.5 hard intercooler pipes with bov and turbo timer set boost to 10-12psi and have a lil fun.

the hose from the 3000pipe is the intercooler hoses /pipes and u can fond intercooler kit just for mk3 on ebay for like 300-400 or make your own . all that should get u going

MK3PIMP 08-28-2008 10:41 PM

oh yea ebay is your friend and if u cant get it on ebay this is the place

Grandavi 08-28-2008 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MK3PIMP (Post 62424)
get a 3'' downpipe with a full 3'' exhaust with a 3'' high flow cat and get a intake ngk plugs wires boost gauge boost controller 2.5 hard intercooler pipes with bov and turbo timer set boost to 10-12psi and have a lil fun.

the hose from the 3000pipe is the intercooler hoses /pipes and u can fond intercooler kit just for mk3 on ebay for like 300-400 or make your own . all that should get u going

3" downpipe with a full 3" exhaust - sounds good! I take it the 3" high flow cat is part of the full 3" exhaust. Gotta price this out... that would also require a 3" header Im guessing.

Intake? Not sure what you mean by that. What would be the benefit? Ahhh.. more research needed! :D

The plugs and wires will be replaced after I deal with the oil leaks (hunting those down.. so far I just suspect the oil lines going into the turbo...) Will be using triple plat spark plugs or ngk iridiums, not sure about the wires yet.

Boost gauge and boost controller... wouldn't the stock boost gauge be sufficient? I am planning to install a Turbo timer, but the boost controller is a bit new to me. Gonna read up about that one, as it wasn't in my plans yet.

The 2.5 hard intercooler pipes with bov, I've read a little about, and that could be a possibility. I haven't truly been under that car yet, so I will probably leave thinking about that until after the stuff above. I think thats just to make the turbo cool more efficiently if I understand it correctly.

I've also read about wastegates... is this something I should also be considering?

Also, I read this
Quote:

The reason for blowing head gaskets was due to Toyota only torquing the head gasket from the factory to 56-58 ft lbs. This torque spec would have been more than adequate for the asbestos HG that was originally intended for the engine. Since Toyota did not switch the torque spec to roughly 72 ft lbs when switching HG material, every 7M-GE that is left untouched is doomed to a fate of a 'BHG', usually between 125,000 miles and 175,000 miles. A correctly torqued OEM HG will last as long as the engine will.
so am thinking maybe I should be checking torque on the headbolts.

Bear in mind.. Im not building racecar.. just a daily driver that is fun (and a bit impressive...). ;D


Doing research/parts sourcing... noticed this.. any thoughts on it? Its a chip...
eBay Motors: TOYOTA CAMRY CELICA SUPRA Performance CHIP /Gas/SAVER (item 260279384924 end time Aug-28-08 18:30:00 PDT)

Scionguy 08-29-2008 12:06 AM

ya i think apexi is a good filter. being inside the airbox is fine, it keeps hot air away from the filter, colder air=denser air=more power. if you can find hard pipes for the intercooler i probably would, your lag will drop alittle and youll have a little more consistent power i think. all these things your doing are going to make you have a bit of power tho, you think its fast now, wait for that full 3" exhuast upgrade :eek3:

Scionguy 08-29-2008 12:14 AM

ya the cat is part of that 3" youll want a resonator, and a good muffler or itll rasp. turbo's dont need headers. technicaly thats your downpipe, if you replace the header, its guna be to use a bigger turbo. i would buy arp head bolts to torque down your head, your stock ones may already be strecthed, if you wana do it right, replace the head gasket or go metal head gasket, but thats pricy and needs some head work. that oil in their is probably from spill, and those really big allen bolts ya know, they go right to the head, you pull one out and you can see oil and all that stuff, thats where mine leaked, your valve cover gaskets may be leaking too, just loose or cracked. o, no power chips lol, piggybacks yes, chips no.
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...valvecover.jpg this is what it looks like without valve covers, and this is wha a blown head gasket looks like
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ars/gasket.jpg

changing that gasket isnt easy, but it isnt hard either, mine was a bout 2 days of work total, and ive never done it before, but im pretty mechanically inclined.

mnewxv 08-29-2008 12:28 AM

heres the deal. You get the header, a pipe takes that to the cat, and rest is just called the catback. This would have a big hp boost of you did it all, im guessing 10 for header, cat prob adds 3-5, and catback another 5-10. so about 20-25hp is my guess. maybe 30. Intake, a clean, non restrictive intake is a good thing. you have a K&N filter right? I like K&N, but is it just a filter in the stock box. An aftermarket intake will get rid of the box and expose the filter, letting it breath much better. expect 8-10hp over stock. boost controller does exactly that, controls your boost. you can up the boost, which gives more hp, but also more strain on the turbo, so good idea to get intercooler/turbo timer to keep that in good shape. good luck!

Grandavi 08-29-2008 02:06 AM

Ty for the responses so far! :)

So, basically, I've been listening to my motor and I think my valves may need to be adjusted .. it sounds like a couple are tapping... I think these are manually adjusted, will have to look into that. So, at the same time, I can redo the headbolts. Now, if I use the ARP ones, can I get away with just pulling and retorquing each bolt individually? Or is it gonna need a bit more prep than that?

At the same time, (because I got the top kinda cleaned off anyway) I may as well be prepped to replace some of the hoses I showed with oil on them as I think they are leaking somehow. And, because Im there... I may as well do the upgraded intake at the same time. Bad part is, Im gonna have to find the cold air intake without the filter, as I already have that part.

Thinking K&N for the intake.

Quote:

Designed to increase horsepower and acceleration. Engineered to specific vehicle. Replaces restrictive factory air filter housing with K&N high flow element and necessary components. Works with O.E. computer and emission control systems. C.A.R.B. Exempt. Maximizes performance while adding value with the washable and reusable K&N high flow FILTERCHARGER element. All K&N filters are designed to meet a filtration efficiency of 97-98% while achieving maximum airflow..
Depending on how long it takes me to amass the parts I need, I may have to wait on the exhaust (if I can hold off until November.. then I can do all at once, but I dont think I can wait that long as the leaking oil annoys me, because until I fix the hoses, I wont know if anything else is leaking...

I am planning to steamclean the engine compartment after the hoses so that I can find the leakages better as well as clean the undercarriage as much as I can as well. That will give me a much better picture of what is currently leaking and what is from past.. as now I am looking at both.. :)

No header needed, but make sure the mod'ed exhaust has a resonator and good muffler? I think my son-in-law has something lined up for me already on that point... : ). Header is not needed unless I install a bigger turbo (which I wont be doing).

I think I'm starting to get a good map going of what to do, and it looks all fairly affordable.

With the Turbo timer, I think I have to also get a new harness. I haven't found anything really on boost control yet, and the intercooler looks pretty straight forward.

mnewxv 08-29-2008 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandavi (Post 62455)
Ty for the responses so far! :)

So, basically, I've been listening to my motor and I think my valves may need to be adjusted .. it sounds like a couple are tapping... I think these are manually adjusted, will have to look into that. So, at the same time, I can redo the headbolts. Now, if I use the ARP ones, can I get away with just pulling and retorquing each bolt individually? Or is it gonna need a bit more prep than that?

At the same time, (because I got the top kinda cleaned off anyway) I may as well be prepped to replace some of the hoses I showed with oil on them as I think they are leaking somehow. And, because Im there... I may as well do the upgraded intake at the same time. Bad part is, Im gonna have to find the cold air intake without the filter, as I already have that part.

Thinking K&N for the intake.



Depending on how long it takes me to amass the parts I need, I may have to wait on the exhaust (if I can hold off until November.. then I can do all at once, but I dont think I can wait that long as the leaking oil annoys me, because until I fix the hoses, I wont know if anything else is leaking...

I am planning to steamclean the engine compartment after the hoses so that I can find the leakages better as well as clean the undercarriage as much as I can as well. That will give me a much better picture of what is currently leaking and what is from past.. as now I am looking at both.. :)

No header needed, but make sure the mod'ed exhaust has a resonator and good muffler? I think my son-in-law has something lined up for me already on that point... : ). Header is not needed unless I install a bigger turbo (which I wont be doing).

I think I'm starting to get a good map going of what to do, and it looks all fairly affordable.

With the Turbo timer, I think I have to also get a new harness. I haven't found anything really on boost control yet, and the intercooler looks pretty straight forward.

you shouldnt need a new harness with a turbo timer.

edit: maybe you do, but its avail here. not sure if its cheap or not compared to other stores.

GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timer

Grandavi 08-29-2008 04:06 AM

Regarding the Turbo timer in a stock MKIII... does anyone here know if I need to order the harness? Its only 10.00 so no biggie if I get it and dont need it.

Also, does everyone put it on top of the steering column? Im thinking of embedding it in the dash somehow. Maybe make a faceplate and put it in the ashtray slot.. hmm...

Has anyone used this or think its worthy of consideration? (my car is going to remain mainly stock and not raced too much)
DNA Manual Boost Controller - No Boost Spike

Also, I may have mentioned this before, but our max Octane level at the pumps is generally 91... Just for normal driving, it seems to be okay, but would octane boost help the car (from a longevity standpoint, not just speed)

Found out what the toggle to the left of the steering wheel is for. It used to be to lock the TEMS into 3rd position. When the engine was repaired (it is original block and heads I found out), they disconnected the wires. Luckily the previous owner misses the car and doesn't mind telling me its history.

Scionguy 08-29-2008 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandavi (Post 62460)
Regarding the Turbo timer in a stock MKIII... does anyone here know if I need to order the harness? Its only 10.00 so no biggie if I get it and dont need it.

Also, does everyone put it on top of the steering column? Im thinking of embedding it in the dash somehow. Maybe make a faceplate and put it in the ashtray slot.. hmm...

Has anyone used this or think its worthy of consideration? (my car is going to remain mainly stock and not raced too much)
DNA Manual Boost Controller - No Boost Spike

Also, I may have mentioned this before, but our max Octane level at the pumps is generally 91... Just for normal driving, it seems to be okay, but would octane boost help the car (from a longevity standpoint, not just speed)

Found out what the toggle to the left of the steering wheel is for. It used to be to lock the TEMS into 3rd position. When the engine was repaired (it is original block and heads I found out), they disconnected the wires. Luckily the previous owner misses the car and doesn't mind telling me its history.


well if you mean like the little autostore or gas station octane boosters, dont bother, their only raising octane in small amounts from 91 to like 91.8 or so lol. boost contrlloers come in manual or electronic, AEM makes a good BC that is also a boost guage, try Boost Controllers thats a whole page of diff BC's so you get an idea, i really like AEM's tru boost, or you get spend the money for one of the best, the blitz sbc i color, but at close to 600, thats for someone looking for the most power they can get, and will need to be tuned by someone knowledgable, the aem is, ooo what does this button do? *push* raises or lowers boost and thats it lol.

Grandavi 08-29-2008 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scionguy (Post 62469)
the aem is, ooo what does this button do? *push* raises or lowers boost and thats it lol.

At this point, I think the aem sounds best :yum:

mnewxv 08-29-2008 05:54 PM

well its good to get a fresh tune for just about any upgrade you do, whether it be a full exhaust, ANY turbo boost controller if your raising the boost even 1-2 pounds, new turbo, new heads, etc etc. Turbo timer doesnt of course since it isnt so much an upgrade to performance but one to longevity.

as for the octane booster, 91 should be fine unless your like pushing 400WHP or more. how much is a gallon of 91 octane up there? most stations here have 93, with some every now and then having 94. but with the prices mine doesnt seem to mind 87 (manufacturers spec)

Scionguy 08-29-2008 06:35 PM

well a boost controller doesnt need a tune technicaly, it just gets dialed to whatyou want. but youll probabaly want fuel management once you upgrade the exhaust, boost level and what not i dont think the ecu make sup for very much on these, theirs multiple threads on what youll need tho.
man all this take makes me want a turbo car so bad now lol.

Grandavi 08-30-2008 06:55 AM

Just adding a fyi :)

Got my appraisal back. It came in at $6000.00.
I paid $6000.00 :)

Nice feeling to be insured on a 20+ year old car for what you paid for it...

(now if someone runs into me.. I can pick up that sweet low mileage white 85.5, lol)

And I still cant seem to drive this car under 120 KPH... (think thats about 75 MPH) Gonna have to get new tires for this car as well now, The front pair doesn't match the back pair (size same, tread and make different) plus they have some cracking showing up on the edges of the tread due to age and sitting so long. I believe the tires are about 4 years old. Thinking of doing a "smoking" photoshoot prior to replacing them. Burn the old one's a bit for a nice shot :dance:

Scionguy 08-30-2008 07:24 PM

wow 6k? what did that involve? haha a smoke shoot would be sick, my tires are the smae way, so once i get the 2 last sensors wired up, ima try the same thing hahaha.

suprakid91 08-31-2008 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scionguy (Post 62419)
haha very nice. after i get my 89 n/a all restored im selling it and buying a turbo model instead lol. if you wd-40 those rust spots, make sure to tell the painter, or he'll hate you for it, i work at a piant shop, wd-40,wax,oil is not our friend lol. the more you spool that turbo, the warmer its guna be, so that lil bit of oil on things is just burning off, you prob stop smelling it soon or if their are leaks keep an eye on your oil level then, dont wana burn that turbo up lol. i hear that replacing that downpipe makes you spool quit a bit quicker and pull alot harder, if you do the downipe youll probably want a boost controller to prevent spike too, im sure someone will back this up or correct me lol.

yes scionguy, i back you up. haha. get the controller to prevent spike cuz you will probably hit fuel cut if it spikes too high.

Grandavi 09-01-2008 12:34 AM

The appraisal was just a long question/answer period followed by a intense inspection and photo shoot, followed by researching replacing the vehicle. There are about 3 pages of itemizations with conditions listed and a car history/summarization at the end. Then, a cost that reflects replacement cost. I was thinking more like 4900 (its CDN dollars btw), but it came out at 6k. Hard to find a decent 88 in Canada right now unless its right hand drive. Even then... its tough. (those are usually "pimped" and cost over 10k... I only found one that I would even consider driving)

As for the downpipe and booster, I am sourcing all the parts now. Going to up the exhaust to a 3" catback system, boost control, boost timer, retrofitting the A/C (just to get rid of that little headache and I don't like playing with A/C systems). I am also going to upgrade the air intake system, but I am having difficulty sourcing the parts for that. I already have a K&N filter, but from what I have read, upgrading will allow the engine to have a "smoother" and more controlled air intake. As well, when the exhaust gets put on, Im going to slap hard-pipes on the intercooler. I looked at upgrading the intercooler, but for under 300hp (which the car will probably remain) I dont think its worth it.

After logging about 10 hours driving it, I am finding it fun to drive, scary to take above 110 mph with current rubber, and frustrating when people wont get out of the way! : )

Busted Knuckles 09-01-2008 12:37 AM

FWIW, that black lever inside the door frame actuates a restrictor on the seat belt reel, that makes the retractor seem softer when the door is closed, and will allow for the belt to retract quickly when the door opens.

Grandavi 09-01-2008 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles (Post 62566)
FWIW, that black lever inside the door frame actuates a restrictor on the seat belt reel, that makes the retractor seem softer when the door is closed, and will allow for the belt to retract quickly when the door opens.

My seatbelts dont reel in quickly either way, but that does seem to be exactly what that is for are for.

Grandavi 09-02-2008 09:50 PM

Woot.. first problem. (btw... I have a map of work to be done and costs that I will post up here in a couple days after I finish research)

Today I go out and start the Supra and... whoops... only like 1 inch of clutch. So.. I look at the clutch reservoir. What do I find? nada... the rubber float is sitting on the bottom.

So, I fill it, and everything is good.

Okay.. now where the hell did the fluid go??? There is no sign of any under the car and so far I cant detect any leaks. It was like the whole reservoir was emptied over night! Puzzling...

Anyone ever have this happen?

Scionguy 09-03-2008 05:17 PM

hmm thats wierd about the fluid but mines an auto so cant help, lol. good luck on this build, itll fun after the exhuast upgrade tho im sure. :)

Micahwc 09-03-2008 06:10 PM

I had to fill my clutch fluid today as well. Mine leaked gradually I believe because the clutch slowly got closer and closer to the floor before it would engage. It took a couple of months for me to search for it on the forum.

Look under the carpet near the clutch pedal for the leak. That's what everyone suggested today when I searched.

Grandavi 09-03-2008 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Micahwc (Post 62672)
I had to fill my clutch fluid today as well. Mine leaked gradually I believe because the clutch slowly got closer and closer to the floor before it would engage. It took a couple of months for me to search for it on the forum.

Look under the carpet near the clutch pedal for the leak. That's what everyone suggested today when I searched.

Yeah, that's the first place I looked.. its weird, because mine wasn't gradual.. it was sort of a overnight thing. If I had a mad ex-wife, I would guess she took a turkey baster and sucked it all out.. just to confuse me...

lol

mnewxv 09-03-2008 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandavi (Post 62673)
Yeah, that's the first place I looked.. its weird, because mine wasn't gradual.. it was sort of a overnight thing. If I had a mad ex-wife, I would guess she took a turkey baster and sucked it all out.. just to confuse me...

lol


you hiding something from us? :whateva:

Grandavi 09-03-2008 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mnewxv (Post 62674)
you hiding something from us? :whateva:

lol.. no.. but the car may be... :)

Just for those who are interested.. this guy is going to be doing some work on my car in the very near future... and he did a write-up (you may have seen him and/or his car on the net already. Just thought that for those who plan to upgrade your cars, he has a pretty decent write-up regarding how to convert our Supras

Sonic Tech Supra MK2 GTE Tech Note

Stupra 09-10-2008 07:32 PM

Looks good man! It's a really clean car I love the color.

Grandavi 09-10-2008 09:14 PM

Thanks! Now I just gotta get the engine compartment prettied up. Going to be slapping these tires on it:

Goodyear Tires | Eagle | Eagle F1 Asymmetric | Features & Benefits

unless someone recommends a better one. Remember.. I live in an area that has snow in winter from time to time (used to be all winter.. that's changed). I dont intend on driving the car in winter, but you can get surprised out here.


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