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Those look nice dude. i've been wanting to try a tire like that since my wheels are all cambered in. I guess the weird tread is supposed to increase tire life. i would definitely give them a shot they look great:)
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yeah, the wheels have different areas for different reasons. However, saying that, I dont think i would use these for drifting. I dont drift (well.. maybe once or twice a year... lol). These tires outside edge tread actually are slightly higher than the inside edge to give more support during cornering. Maybe they would work better? No idea.. :)
But overall, I like the look, and I've been using Good Year ever since my Uniroyals gave out on a corner in my 80 Celica (doing 80 in a 30 zone, met up with a hairpin curve... the tires didn't even squeak... the car however was a right-off). No seatbelts, just 2 young and foolish guys looking startled as the car went head on for a tree and a rock. Divine intervention wins the day! |
Okay, for anyone interested (and I would like yays or nays if you have any...:)), here is my list of what I'm gonna do. Incredible how fast everything adds up $$wise...
Body - Got a body shop that is going to do all my complaints (above the wheel wells, rebuild the inner wheel well driver side, front rust - of which I am going to replace the fender rather than just spot fixing)... just shy of 2000.00. Planning (hoping) to have that happen right before Christmas. Wheels - replacing with the tires I mentioned 2 or 3 posts ago.. but waiting until next spring (hoping price falls or new design comes out or.. maybe a sale!) Figuring at about 800.00 Interior - got all the parts I need and just doing it as time permits. This part is inexpensive as I have very little to do Glass - Going to tint all the glass (not the windshield). Doing 1 stage lighter than the darkest possible on the hatch, 2 stages lighter than darkest possible on the back windows, 1 stage darker than the lightest possible on driver and passenger side windows. Anyone ever seen louvres for an 88? No idea if they would look good, just can't recall ever seeing any... Brakes - Staying stock with these, as I dont see any reason yet to improve them. Just a normal maintenance issue... Stereo - just upgraded to a JVC AVX11 http://www2.visions.ca/catalogue/cat...&productId=960 can watch movies too! lol... Engine/Drivetrain Ahh.. here's where we really get funky... lol. - New rad! Now.. correct me if I'm wrong, but one of the true causes of BHG is overheating on the rear 2 cylinders... Doing this for that reason and because I find that the car likes running hot (temp gauge is steady, but feels hotter than a normal vehicle ... turbo I would guess) Koyo Racing Toyota K-Sport Aluminum Radiators - Exhaust upgrade - I may be listing these weird because I havent exactly figured out what goes where. Hopefully this is all that I need... it gets kind of confusing as I haven't done this "hands-on" yet, just read lots... - HKS Front pipe to remove front Cat pipe. (to reduce heat under the hood. (have yet to source this so I am not sure exactly how this goes on... just know I want it) I am presently assuming this removed the catalytic converter.. and also assuming that I am wrong. (I think you would have engine computer issues if you pop out the catalytic converter even though I think they are a BAD idea!) - Cat Back Exhaust system. NOTE: This is very hard to figure out. I have sourced a HKS system out, but haven't found if it is 2.5" or 3". My plan is to go full 3". I am assuming that Cat back means.. from the Catalytic converter to the back of the car... am I right? - Leaving the Header and muffler upgrades until i figger out everything else. - Engine Compartment - pretty well every hose (not the small vacuum lines if they look okay) is going to get replaced unless I can tell for sure it is in great condition. At this point, I have to research almost every hose I find (especially any that are attached to the turbo system) and see if I can upgrade/improve them. My engine runs pretty darn good right now, but I am thinking that I have some oil leakage via the hoses and the rest are probably at that point that they may start leaking... am I being paranoid? lol. I dont mind spending the money to do it right. - Intercooler - Decided no upgrade ... but I am going to replace almost all the rubber hoses with metal and pretty it up a bit. - Heads (area) - Pulling all the spark plugs and tossing em.. same with the wires. Simply because I have no idea about their history and I want to have control of whatever I can. All getting replaced with Iridium sparkplugs, but not decided yet on what kind of wires. I am also going to just double check the head bolt torque as I have to replace a head cover gasket anyway. At this point, I think I can adjust the valves. I thought they were auto adjusting, but have heard that they do need to be adjusted. Compression test at this time as well so I know where I'm at. - Already have a K&N Air filter, but the pipes leading to it are going to be upgraded. I believe a HKS SMF Intake Suction Kit would do it. - Transmission. As soon as I get all the engine done.. Im dropping the tranny and plan to rebuild it. I have rebuilt standard trannies in Celicas myself before, and I am hoping this will be about the same. There is no way I can race the car presently as I cannot shift from first to second quickly without grinding the gear. It takes a bit of force to go from first to second and back, and I have to fish a bit to get into reverse. 3rd, 4th and 5th seem to be relatively smooth. I think previous owner hammerd this tranny in speed shifting... I can live with it as is until everything else is done. I think that covers it all. The car performs adequately and is a blast to drive, however, it has the 20 year old issues. Like when I run it for about 2 hours and park it (leaving it run for about 2-3 minutes). When I get out.. I can smell burning oil on the engine. Not happy with that, although I dont seem to use oil (maybe a litre every 2 -4 fills). And regarding the money, I honestly dont plan on driving any other car for the next 10 years... so I dont mind the fact i will never pull what I put in this car out at any point. After all.. I could spend 20 grand on the car and after 10 years the car will be worth as much as the 30k car I could buy today... Any thoughts or assistance on what parts I may want to consider would be greatly appreciated. I still cannot source anywhere that has new fenders either metal or fibreglass for the mkIII. |
As for the louvers, I haven't seen any that are for the MKIII Supras. IMO, I think they'd look pretty cool on these cars, which is why at some point I want to make some for mine.
Also, I couldn't tell if you were already changing this, but I noticed you said you have a K&N Filter? I'd say you should replace that for a dry filter... I believe AEM has some good dry filters. I've been told that the oil from the filters can gum up sensors in the intake. |
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I had louvres on my 1981 Celica hatchback and they looked great and really helped keep the heat down inside the car, however, they did rattle. I'm trying to visualize it on mine.. lol. If I could find custom louvres, I would probably forgo the tinting. (providing it didnt make the car look silly) |
Yeah, the oiling gap is a bit extreme. I have a K&N FIPKII on my 00 Sonoma, and I re-oil it about every 10-15K miles. It gets gray and dirty fairly quick.
I've always pictured Louvers looking fairly cool on the Supras... A while ago I decided that I wanted to build up a N/A MKIII like a muscle car, keeping the car's factory styling with a few muscle car twists. One thing I've liked about some of the older muscle cars (namely the 69 Mustang Mach I) is the combination of the Louvers and small wing on the liftback, and I made a few rough sketches of how it could look and it's pretty cool. But louvers aren't for everyone, it seems you either like them or you don't. |
I can't find a schematic of the turbo hoses anywhere.. lol. Does anyone know of a link to one? I'm looking for both directions from the turbo so I can hunt down and get the best parts to replace the lines/hoses/pipes. I also want to do any additions/improvements but dont know what is on the car as compared to what I have to change, etc...
Would be easier if I took it apart first, but to me, thats putting the cart before the horse.. :) Also.. to any of you "experts"... does this look like a good buy? MK1 HARDPIPE KIT WITH BLOW OFF VALVE 86-92 SUPRA MK3 - (eBay.ca item 120304665686 end time 18-Sep-08 23:40:24 EDT) and.. just to add to that.. considering this... just to pretty it up a bit. (would take care of my worry regarding old cracked vacuum hoses anyway... Toyota Supra Mark III TURBO silicone Vac Hose Kit BLACK - (eBay.ca item 380063034122 end time 25-Sep-08 13:00:00 EDT) and some more... do Turbo MKIII's already have a wastegate or is that an add-on to improve performance. If we have one, or dont.. is there special sizing that should be considered? They dont look expensive... This is what I am talking about... 40mm Turbo Wastegate Exhaust Dump Tube Pipe Supra Rx-7 - (eBay.ca item 140268301613 end time 25-Sep-08 11:05:10 EDT) (if you notice they are ebay stuff.. its where I start my search... I dont generally plan to purchase from there, but it does have good pics of the parts) and.. as I keep going... this is the catback system I am looking at (or similar to it). I think this one would work as it is 3". Catback Exhaust Supra MKIII Turbo NA 7MGTE 7MGE 86-92 - (eBay.ca item 200255659410 end time 28-Sep-08 12:06:48 EDT) Just from reading about it, looks like the catalytic converter gets trashed (not really because it is extremely hazardous.. so I will take it to the metal recycler place...) which concerns me as I thought the ECU monitors the cat. If I understand this correctly, I need to get a 3" downpipe and that would run from the exhaust manifold (hope to get a header) to the catback system.. or am I doing something twice? Lol.. I think the down pipe comes from the turbo.. not sure how it connects (remember.. I have no schematic, haven't been under my car and can't see the exhaust system except from above and in front of the engine). All this is so damn new to me.. but I will be an expert in the end.. :) Is there a forum post somewhere that says... "This is your exhaust system... the *pipe comes from the manifold and goes to the *pipe... this connects to the *pipe and has the *sensor inside..." Then us dummies would know it all : ) - Hope i'm not being annoying.. but the terminology is new to a first time turbo owner... This is what I am looking at (not this specific one, but it shows it) for upgraded exhaust manifold (header) Toyota Supra 7MGTE MA70 Turbo Manifold 1986-1992 MKIII - (eBay.ca item 150295873715 end time 24-Sep-08 18:54:18 EDT) This one has a port for the wastegate.. so I am assuming that the Supra has one, and if I remember right, its not built well. It says that it is 40 mm or 50 mm.. but I think for a true 3" exhaust.. I would need something 80mm... not sure if that exists though. Or if its actually necessary to have at 3"? And.. upon looking further.. I will have to be careful I think... because some of these manifolds wont allow you to keep your A/C. (Not sure if this is true...) And finally... for today... the boost controller and blow off valve... RS BLOW OFF BOV+BOOST CONTROLLER SUPRA MR2 CELICA RSX G - (eBay.ca item 110290679240 end time 24-Sep-08 22:05:46 EDT) Good picture of it here. I plan to add this (or one similar), however, with a stock turbo and a 3" catback exhaust and upgraded air suction, is this a "want" or a "need". The car seems to control itself quite fine as is, but once upgraded, is this necessary? I don't plan on doing anything more than "fun" driving and perhaps do a 1/4 mile time test (hoping to do a before and after, but the person i talk to regarding track time hasnt responded yet - wtf is a holiday??). Other than that, I'm not into serious performance or I would be upping everything (lol.. basically redoing the entire drivetrain). The linked BOV is universal and quite frankly.. I dont like that. |
coming along nicely man. mines at the my friends for a tranny and rad flush and then she comes back for paint! you better have pics of your install btw.
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What color you going with? Original? |
Did this pic for kicks...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/757c_20louvers.jpg after looking at it, I think you would remove the rear wiper if you could ever have a proper one built. It would be nice to have a gloss black metal one providing it didnt rattle too much. :) |
To me, that pic just looks....
SWEET |
that was just playing.. was hard to find a pic on the net of any louvres.. until I spelled it louver.... lol.
Here is something that a lot of you with MKIII's may find interesting. My steering wheel is "chafed", but the center and horn and cruise are all perfect. So.. I was hunting for a new one.. and found this: Dallas Custom Steering Wheel He will recover the steering wheel in the original color leather (I am assuming its going to be a very close match) for about 215.00. This is a far cry from any of the "new" ones that I could source but not find. (found prices above 500.00... only entire steering wheel though). I thought it was quite reasonable pricewise and the pics I see are really good work. Will be doing that in early 09 for my car anyway... just thought I would share that. I plan to go grey and black on mine (stay away from true original... not like this will ever be a "collector" car) and I noticed they do the ebrake and shifter boot! woot! (btw.. I am just gonna keep growing this post.. it will have all my photo-journals and any "finds" i come across) This is another link you may find useful... I was searching for a Chilton's Manual for my 88... and came across this. Will be signing up on Monday and will let you know how well it functions: https://www.alldatadiy.com/ Electronic manuals as well as all recall and tech reports for your car... seems to have every car there... |
man i love photoshop, it looks like a delorian like that haha, its pretty sweet. my steering wheel is the same way, it makes my hands all nasty after i drive, does yours?
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And now.. the "bad boy" story... lol. Just had to share this with you... A new(er) Mustang pulls up along me and my son driving to pick up my other boy and my son says... he's gonna race you. Which ... the mustang tries.. Isn't it awesome how we can stay in 3rd gear until a Mustang reaches 5th? lol. dont know if he was a bad driver, but after 140 kph (think thats 90 mph) he was about 6 car lengths behind me and I threw it in 5th and idled down to speed. Nice feeling... to have a 4k-6k$ car beat a 20k-30k$ car. Now.. no more racing!! After all my hunting.. I finally found it (again)... a TSRM page! I think its stickied in the forums somewhere.. but now I can map things out. Woohoo! MK3 TSRM On-Line I started a new post... to get confirmation on parts... : ) (the ones I decided on) FINAL PART LIST HERE http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...html#post63330 |
haha, awesome story lol. this is why i love imports, american cars may have more muscle, but thats just to compensate for their fat a$$es lol, their heavy, so is the supra, but usually not as much. boost owns NA:dance:
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And to continue... lol...
Here I am driving around my sporty little Supra, enjoying it lots and because I just bought it about a month or so ago, Im thinking... lets give the dealership a shot. So, I put it in for a major "inspection", asking that they go bumper to bumper with it to tell me what they find wrong. (Amazingly in the end, this only costs me $289.00 but that includes a compression test and engine shampoo which now I am glad I did). So... I have all these plans and timings etc, and what do they find under the hood? Engine is in really good condition, however... the spark plugs are immersed in oil! I read about that here and am going back to read again. They are asking 900.00 to fix that issue and I told em, gonna have to wait because I cant afford that currently (true, because I pay everything cash). Here's the little tidbits that I found from my 289.00 test (money I think was very well spent because the mechanic that was working on the car absolutely loves mine and has an 84 Supra with an engine in it out of my car. : ) His brother has a 89 with a 500 HP engine in it.. nice to have my baby cared from by someone who understands its not a Prius) 1. The spark plugs are garbage... and I mean... garbage... you know.. the $.50 ones (not platinum!)... lol. How the hell I was getting the performance I was getting with these in it is beyond me and a testament to Toyota engineering... 2. The Plug wires are toast. They will work fine until I get the new ones in, but the ends were in oil for a long time and its startling that they actually fired... 3. The valve cover gaskets (thats the problem btw) have been leaking for a long time. Need replacement. 4. The BOV hose was split, you just couldnt see it while it was connected. (going to replace all those with aftermarket ones.. so told him to just slap it on, and I will do that one myself) 5. Coolant leaking on the turbo side (noticed that before i brought the car in), the hose below the motor (about the size of a vacuum hose but bigger radius) was wet with oil and coolant. Not sure where its coming from, but now that the engine is clean, we should be able to tell. So, I figger money well spent. Now I know what I have to do RFN regardless of my plans to improve it. At least this way, I have a better timetable for what I am doing and how Im gonna get there. Still amazed it ran with that amount of oil sitting in the spark plugs... you could just see the tips of the plug in that area... lol. Dont have pictures because its in their shop... but it was interesting to see. Will post later with compression results. |
Compression Test results:
#1 - 148 psi #2 - 146 psi #3 - 150 psi #4 - 146 psi #5 - 151 psi #6 - 150 psi I think thats acceptable for a motor with about 25k km on it (which is about 15k miles). Sad to think that whoever put the motor in this for the previous owner didn't use the correct spark plugs. Funny to note that the engine runs fine with the wrong plugs and "pretty well shot" wires. Will put in a pic of the wires.. just for interest sakes. |
IM old... I think this is funny... we used to joke about it in highschool and now I see someone selling one. Gives you 100 BHP... lol. (of course.. you do get a T-Shirt)
Welcome to Driftmotion! |
So, is it a natural thing for a Supra to have lots and lots of leaking hoses at this age? Everytime I check to see whats happening under the hood i am finding a new hose that leaks. (Pretty sure my best bet is to pull all and replace all and then be done with it).
Also, dont know if any of you know what the hell this is.. but after I drive for a bit, when i stop I get a squeaking sound (mid range) that sounds almost like metal on metal grinding... is this my lower ball joints? (they need to be replaced). You know how you inch forward slowly then stop at a red light while waiting? The front end will dip slightly when you stop and thats when I hear the noise. Works going front or back, but is very hard to pinpoint where its coming from. Sometimes it sounds like its directly under the stereo (the trans mounts), other times sounds like bad struts.. although they seem to be perfectly fine. Curious... I've stopped driving fast until I localise and fix this as I keep having pictures of a spindle snapping at 90 MPH... |
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It really does sound like struts to me. I guess I would have to hear it though. |
Im thinking I will probably find out what it is when I pop apart stuff for the new lower baal joints. Will do a pic of what I find there.. could be just bad bushings. Hopefully I dont have to rebuild the entire front suspension (of course.. if I do.. thats just one more thing off the list)
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Woot! Found the fenders!!! : ) Adding that to my list of parts to get. Man.. I gotta do a good month in November.. parts added up to too much, cant buy until Nov 28th now... yikes. Ahh well.. car will be parked by then, so I can tear down/rebuild!
Anyway.. anyone interested.. here's where I found the fenders... Champion ToyotaWorld |
Seatbelt tensioner
The little black lever on the door post is the seatbelt tensioner. It allows a slightly less tension on the seatbelt when you are wearing it, to allow you to move forward easier (like reaching into the glovebox).
More tension when door is open, to help retract the belt when you take it off. Isn't Toyota thoughtful ? The should have spent MORE TIME getting the BHG problem solved. By the way, after owning my supra for 6 years, and moderating this forum for about 3 yrs, I have determined that the headgaskets will go bad (leak again, even just a tiny bit) about every 3 yrs, or 20k miles. I will do a thread on my findings soon, so look for it, I will sticky it in the general section. |
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Thought I would update this (been a while)
As of last week, I found a guy in Calgary that does rust repairs out of his home (its all he does). He only charges 45.00 per hour flat rate + parts currently which is a super duper deal and he seems to be good. Also, all the work is photographed so I will have a journal of repairs. ANYONE who is thinking of buying a Supra in Canada, should read this!! Here's what happened. If you are familiar with this thread, then you may have seen the pictures detailing rust repairs needed on my car. I searched long and hard and NOBODY would touch the car. All they want to do is accident repairs because insurance claims are gravy for them. (weinies!) Anyway, I found this guy (Rust King is what he calls his company) and I saw pics of rust repair on a Mustang that looked similar to my problems.. here's what I found after he got the car and agreed to do the work... The rear wheel wells were far worse than what I could see. The rust was actually behind the undercoating so you couldnt even tell there were huge holes in the wheel well on the passenger side. All that is now repaired with metal.. full seam welds too, no tacking and gluing and bondo. Very nice job there. The driver side was just flakes of metal left and those are now replaced with solid metal. The factory primer was good up to the rust areas so he cut back to that area and replace/reshaped them. (still ongoing btw) There was also a hole from rust behind the rear seat on the passenger side which was quite an odd location for it. That also was replaced with metal and is being sealed. (starting to feel better about the car regardless of the $$ being thrown at it now) The trim along the bottom of the car is all bolt on (I didn't know that) and is rusting in certain areas, so needs to be replaced (behind the front driver side tire is bubbling). that will have to wait as the single piece is 325.00, so I may just go with a body kit and forget replacing it. The rocker panel under the doors is solid metal, mine is in great shape luckily. The quarter panels (i have pics earlier on in this thread) were "bubbling" along the top of the wheel wells. Why? Because the previous owner did the rust repair and rivited sheets of metal over top of the rust (didn't clean up the old rust) then put about 2-3 mm's of bondo over the whole thing just gluing the metal to the quarter panel. Now.. this may work okay in Texas.. but in Canada.. it wont work. Thats why my quarters were falling apart. (now it is solid metal again with just a very thin film of bondo for shaping). And to rebuild the quarter it has about a 1/2 inch flat area around the top of the tire which this guy has had to hand shape. I think this will look very sharp when its complete and I get it painted. The warning? Open up the side panels of the hatch and stick your damn hand inside. Feel around... if you feel dirt.. the wheel wells are likely shot to hell. Press against the top of the wheel well (I did on mine a year after I bought it and my hand went right through!!) Check for flaking or breakage. Most people are aware of the spare tire compartment, but if you live in a wintery (snowy) area, it is very likely your rears are going to be like mine if they were ever done improperly or poorly maintainted. You can use that to lower the purchase price, or just walk away. I had no choice on my car. Do it or watch it fall apart. (I love my Supra.. so no real chioce..) Total cost (not including a paint job) to repair both quarter panels, both wheel wells, the front edge of both wheel well areas (both rusting out beneath the ground effects flare near the rocker panel), the rust part on the front driver side fender, including him removing my interior and putting it back in.. will be about 2400.00. That may seem like a lot to the person who has not costed this out.. but i figger its about 1/2 what I expected.. the kicker is.. now I have to worry about my doors, because if the body work was this bad on the quarters.. I am guessing my door skins are going to present problems in a few years. |
INSIDE THE Driver side WHEEL WELL
http://gdscentral.net/88supra/bodyrepair1.jpg The front fender is getting repaired rather than replaced (at least at this point it is.. we will see when its ground down what will really happen) http://gdscentral.net/88supra/bodyrepair2.jpg Both sides of the bumper had these brackets rusted... in following pics.. you will see what they attach to. The attachments are completely gone. Ordered new sets with hardware for both sides. http://gdscentral.net/88supra/bodyrepair3.jpg http://gdscentral.net/88supra/bodyrepair4.jpg This is the mudflap/ground effects right behind the driverside front tire, the bubbling shows that the metal inside is rusting. Not replacing this until I decide.. body kit or stay stock. http://gdscentral.net/88supra/bodyrepair5.jpg This is the bumper mount that is rusted completely off where it attaches to the bumper. Same on both sides. http://gdscentral.net/88supra/bodyrepair8.jpg Passenger side quarter (driver side is complete, but I dont have a photo of that yet. You can also see where my gas tank is leaking. I am hoping it is just the gasket and have ordered a new one this week along with all new screws, etc. But I think I will have to drop the gas tank and have it checked over and possibly repaired as the seams look like they "may" be split on this corner. Toyota put a guard on the gas tank that is basically just a plastic beach pail.. all it does is hold dirt against the gas tank. Not designed well. Anyone know if I can remove it safely and leave it off?? http://gdscentral.net/88supra/bodyrepair9.jpg The inisde of the the mudflap/ground effects behind the driverside front wheel.. you can see why its bubbling. All I am doing is sealing it to prevent further degradation for now. http://gdscentral.net/88supra/bodyrepair7.jpg This is the odd rust spot. no idea why it rusted here... but it is repaired now with a patch of metal and being sealed. http://gdscentral.net/88supra/bodyrepair6.jpg |
Does anybody have a suggestion for sideskirts that are bolt ons for the 88? (I could replace front and rear bumpers.. but not sure if I absolutely have to or.. if I dont.. will it look like I'm an idiot?) :D
Also, I have to replace the rear trim on the driver side.. (the black rubber peice that wraps around the car, not sure of a technical name for it, but its what is supposed to protect the car from other doors (yeah right). The new one (there are 2 in the world that Toyota can find for me) is going to be original grey, but mine are black (painted I believe). Is it a hard process to paint, or should I replace the whole trim package (the wrap around door guard... whatever you call it.. lol) |
nice beast u got there, did u find where the oil on the spark plug galley was coming from? where is tht dipstick sticky id like to read it, i have the same frustration with reading the level
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[QUOTE=Grandavi;62395]I read the manual entirely, cover to cover and still cant find what that black swing thingy on the door post is...
http://www.gdscentral.net/88supra/insidedoor1.jpg This to me looks the door switch.. tells the car whether or not the door is open. Haven't looked at my Supra for a bit (snow and all lol) but if I recall there are indicators on the dash for door open.. Hope that helps |
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leaking valve covers has been a problem for everyone since Supras began. The way I solved it on mine is to use a drop of the red loctite on the threads. (only do this if you use allen head bolts because it's difficult to untighten) Get the oil out of the threaded hole with a clean pointed Q-tip and some solvent twisting in the direction of the threads only. I also got rid of the stock phillips screws and got stainless bolts with a allen cap on eBay. The metal washer under the cap was dome shaped. The original black rubber insulators which I think I were faucet washers melted. I replace those with fuel injector O-rings from a 1984 Chrysler laser turbo. Don't over crush the O-rings. If your valve cover rubber seals have gone too flat or stiff, replace it with a new Toyota made one. I use a thin layer of oil resistant silicone on both sides as an extra measure. The result is not much if any oil leakage and the bolts don't work loose. Use a pointed surgical tweezer or a small screwdriver and a bit of paper towel to soak up the oil around the spark plugs. Other oil leak problem areas are the cam position sensor O-ring and the camshaft front oil seals. Those are lectures all by themselves.
Update 5/27/10 Here is a MR2 web site that sells a few Supra parts as well. They have upgrade valve cover bolts / washers for $16 a set. I still recommend using a drop of the red locktite. They also have a cam position / distributor rebuilding kit for $24 that includes an internal shaft oil seal, outer housing O-ring, shaft bearing, and shaft pin. I plan on carefully drilling and or tapping out the old pin to reuse the drive gear. The old pin probably domed over or spread out in a v notch on one or both ends. http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/produ...products_id=66 |
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