supra newb overheating

vdesign · 06-25-2008, 04:24 PM

But now that I think about it, i always hear a "gurgling" noise coming from the engine before it starts to get hot. But when putting the new coolant in i ran it and let it run the air out and put even more coolant in..

I checked for water in the oil and there wasn't any.

simpsons7s · 06-25-2008, 04:45 PM

If I where you I would check the torque on the arp's whom ever installed it probably went with the TSRM 52ft-lb instead of torquing to HKS reccomended 72ft-lb. You wouldn't necessarly have a blown gasket but more of an undertorqued one. After that sit in the driveway and check the coolent then idle with the heater on and see if you get any bubbles in the radiator and check your passanger floorboard for leaks as well. If all that is fine then try to get it to overheat in the driveway by idling maybe you will catch something like a small leak from your TB hoses. It also might be overly advanced timing, reset to stock. Just some simple suggestions.

SideWinderGX · 06-25-2008, 05:15 PM

if you have done all that work by yourself, your not a newb haha. your well ahead of half the people that post here

the gurgling means that air is somehow getting into your cooling system. one of your hoses might be a bit loose, allowing air to be sucked in, or you just didnt get all the air out in the beginning.

dont let the car get into the red...super, extremely bad things will happen. MKIII supras tend to blow something up if they overheat...they dont fare well with very high temperatures.

aer you sure the fan clutch isnt bad? and do you have a fan shroud on the car?

vdesign · 06-25-2008, 05:48 PM

I do have a shroud on it, the duct taped one. the passenger side of the shroud is broke, so i can't bolt it in. (the whole shroud is still intact, just can't bolt it on)

I'll check the hoses again and see if the head gasket is torqued down enough.

The head gasket not torqued down enough makes the most sense to me

burton51m · 06-25-2008, 06:26 PM

If you go with a metal headgasket you know that the head and block have to be extremely smooth and resurfaced very well. The metal headgaskets are more picky then regular headgaskets in that situation.

SideWinderGX · 06-25-2008, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burton51m

If you go with a metal headgasket you know that the head and block have to be extremely smooth and resurfaced very well. The metal headgaskets are more picky then regular headgaskets in that situation.

oops, didnt notice that.

+1...the head needs to be milled to a certain RA for the metal head gasket to seat properly.

supramacist · 06-25-2008, 11:42 PM

The easiest way for the system to suck air is through the overflow can.

The engine spits and sucks into and from this can. If you keep it empty there's your pirate air.

ARP states specs of 70 lbs of torque. So if your mechanic can't read or follow instructions. Get one that can.

I used a 2.mm HKS stopper gasket. I torqued to 85lbs. But that's me.

robertsws · 06-25-2008, 11:55 PM

when i first got my 87 supra non-turbo I had overheating problems too. Although at the same time my fan exploded and punctured my radiator. I thought that it was my fan clutch so i replaced the fan clutch, fan, and radiator and three weeks later the same thing happened. It turned out that all the trouble was due to me removing the plastic engine undercover. It caused the airflow into the engine compartment and through the radiator to be out of wack. IE. excess air flow from under the car into the engine bay and insufficient air flow through the radiator. That lack of air flow through the radiator is what caused my overheating problem. The excess air from under the car into the engine bay caused the fan blades to bend when driving and they hit on something (most likely the radiator) and broke off spinning about in the engine bay puncturing the radiator. Once i put the undercover back on i never had another problem with it overheating.

Although my 91 turbo doesn't have the undercover on it and i've got no problems with it. Nor does it have a fan shroud.

vdesign · 06-26-2008, 02:42 PM

thanks for all the help.

What about the small electric fan in the front? It hasn't been coming on and yesterday it only heated up to almost 3/4.

If the fan isn't it, I will be checking out the head gasket problems.

burton51m · 06-25-2008, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vdesign

I do have a shroud on it, the duct taped one. the passenger side of the shroud is broke, so i can't bolt it in. (the whole shroud is still intact, just can't bolt it on)

my fan shroud is just like yours, broke around the bolts and loose, and i havent had any overheating problems.

06-25-2008, 04:24 PM	#1
vdesign Stock Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 6	But now that I think about it, i always hear a "gurgling" noise coming from the engine before it starts to get hot. But when putting the new coolant in i ran it and let it run the air out and put even more coolant in.. I checked for water in the oil and there wasn't any. Last edited by vdesign; 06-25-2008 at 04:30 PM.

06-25-2008, 05:15 PM	#3
SideWinderGX 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Syracuse, NY Posts: 203	if you have done all that work by yourself, your not a newb haha. your well ahead of half the people that post here the gurgling means that air is somehow getting into your cooling system. one of your hoses might be a bit loose, allowing air to be sucked in, or you just didnt get all the air out in the beginning. dont let the car get into the red...super, extremely bad things will happen. MKIII supras tend to blow something up if they overheat...they dont fare well with very high temperatures. aer you sure the fan clutch isnt bad? and do you have a fan shroud on the car? __________________ my car: 1987 brownish Toyota Supra Turbo, automatic 7MGTE engine with ~100k miles on it.

06-25-2008, 06:26 PM	#5
burton51m Lexus & 550's Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Canton, OH Posts: 536	If you go with a metal headgasket you know that the head and block have to be extremely smooth and resurfaced very well. The metal headgaskets are more picky then regular headgaskets in that situation. __________________

06-25-2008, 11:55 PM	#8
robertsws 3" Exhaust Join Date: May 2008 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland Posts: 63	when i first got my 87 supra non-turbo I had overheating problems too. Although at the same time my fan exploded and punctured my radiator. I thought that it was my fan clutch so i replaced the fan clutch, fan, and radiator and three weeks later the same thing happened. It turned out that all the trouble was due to me removing the plastic engine undercover. It caused the airflow into the engine compartment and through the radiator to be out of wack. IE. excess air flow from under the car into the engine bay and insufficient air flow through the radiator. That lack of air flow through the radiator is what caused my overheating problem. The excess air from under the car into the engine bay caused the fan blades to bend when driving and they hit on something (most likely the radiator) and broke off spinning about in the engine bay puncturing the radiator. Once i put the undercover back on i never had another problem with it overheating. Although my 91 turbo doesn't have the undercover on it and i've got no problems with it. Nor does it have a fan shroud. __________________ 1991 Supra - Turbo - 5spd 60-1 upgraded turbo Lexus AFM 3" exhaust, 4" tip SAFC 2 550cc injectors (2 sets, venom direct fit, RC engineering) 2.5" intercooler and piping Aluminum radiator w/dual electric fans ARP bolts w/MHG Full-auto turbo timer Fidanza Flywheel & Stage 2 Clutch spark plugs and wires. power steering pump cold temp start switch engine top end rebuilt transmission opened up and inspected at a tranny shop when the flywheel and clutch installed last week. Last edited by robertsws; 06-26-2008 at 01:17 AM.

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06-25-2008, 04:45 PM	#2
simpsons7s Stock Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: riverside, ca Posts: 6	If I where you I would check the torque on the arp's whom ever installed it probably went with the TSRM 52ft-lb instead of torquing to HKS reccomended 72ft-lb. You wouldn't necessarly have a blown gasket but more of an undertorqued one. After that sit in the driveway and check the coolent then idle with the heater on and see if you get any bubbles in the radiator and check your passanger floorboard for leaks as well. If all that is fine then try to get it to overheat in the driveway by idling maybe you will catch something like a small leak from your TB hoses. It also might be overly advanced timing, reset to stock. Just some simple suggestions.

06-25-2008, 05:48 PM	#4
vdesign Stock Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 6	I do have a shroud on it, the duct taped one. the passenger side of the shroud is broke, so i can't bolt it in. (the whole shroud is still intact, just can't bolt it on) I'll check the hoses again and see if the head gasket is torqued down enough. The head gasket not torqued down enough makes the most sense to me

06-25-2008, 11:42 PM	#7
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	The easiest way for the system to suck air is through the overflow can. The engine spits and sucks into and from this can. If you keep it empty there's your pirate air. ARP states specs of 70 lbs of torque. So if your mechanic can't read or follow instructions. Get one that can. I used a 2.mm HKS stopper gasket. I torqued to 85lbs. But that's me.

06-26-2008, 02:42 PM	#9
vdesign Stock Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 6	thanks for all the help. What about the small electric fan in the front? It hasn't been coming on and yesterday it only heated up to almost 3/4. If the fan isn't it, I will be checking out the head gasket problems.