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Old 06-25-2008, 03:24 PM   #1
vdesign
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Default supra newb overheating

Hi guys.. I just bought a toyota supra 86.5 with some over heating problems. I have replaced the upper and lower radiator hose, radiator cap, thermostat twice (thinking the 1st one was bad), the headgasket and bolts are new and upgraded, replaced the water pump yesterday, flushed the radiator (with one of the bottles at a parts store), replaced the belts, and put in a new over flow tank. I felt the fan, the fan still has plenty of tension in it. The smaller fan works. Just put new radiator fluid/water in it and drove it to work this morning and it still gets hot.

When it heats up, its usually when I am at an idle and/or accelerating. It will go about 3/4 of the way up (20 min drive), then go back down and some times it even gets into the red (45 min drive) then goes back down almost immediately after. Then after a while, like the other night, it will shut off. When it shut off, the temp gauge showed just over the half.

The fan shroud is hanging pretty lose on the radiator by some duct tape (bought it like that). Newer engine is installed with about 50k miles.

Last edited by vdesign; 06-25-2008 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 06-25-2008, 03:58 PM   #2
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Just a guess but you're about to experience a bhg.

Unless you have more air in the coolant system than you do coolant.
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Old 06-25-2008, 04:22 PM   #3
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odd.. it just had a hks metal head gasket and arp head studs installed recently
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Old 06-25-2008, 04:24 PM   #4
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But now that I think about it, i always hear a "gurgling" noise coming from the engine before it starts to get hot. But when putting the new coolant in i ran it and let it run the air out and put even more coolant in..

I checked for water in the oil and there wasn't any.

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Old 06-25-2008, 04:45 PM   #5
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If I where you I would check the torque on the arp's whom ever installed it probably went with the TSRM 52ft-lb instead of torquing to HKS reccomended 72ft-lb. You wouldn't necessarly have a blown gasket but more of an undertorqued one. After that sit in the driveway and check the coolent then idle with the heater on and see if you get any bubbles in the radiator and check your passanger floorboard for leaks as well. If all that is fine then try to get it to overheat in the driveway by idling maybe you will catch something like a small leak from your TB hoses. It also might be overly advanced timing, reset to stock. Just some simple suggestions.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:15 PM   #6
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if you have done all that work by yourself, your not a newb haha. your well ahead of half the people that post here

the gurgling means that air is somehow getting into your cooling system. one of your hoses might be a bit loose, allowing air to be sucked in, or you just didnt get all the air out in the beginning.

dont let the car get into the red...super, extremely bad things will happen. MKIII supras tend to blow something up if they overheat...they dont fare well with very high temperatures.

aer you sure the fan clutch isnt bad? and do you have a fan shroud on the car?
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:48 PM   #7
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I do have a shroud on it, the duct taped one. the passenger side of the shroud is broke, so i can't bolt it in. (the whole shroud is still intact, just can't bolt it on)

I'll check the hoses again and see if the head gasket is torqued down enough.

The head gasket not torqued down enough makes the most sense to me
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:26 PM   #8
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If you go with a metal headgasket you know that the head and block have to be extremely smooth and resurfaced very well. The metal headgaskets are more picky then regular headgaskets in that situation.
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdesign View Post
I do have a shroud on it, the duct taped one. the passenger side of the shroud is broke, so i can't bolt it in. (the whole shroud is still intact, just can't bolt it on)
my fan shroud is just like yours, broke around the bolts and loose, and i havent had any overheating problems.
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Old 06-25-2008, 10:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burton51m View Post
If you go with a metal headgasket you know that the head and block have to be extremely smooth and resurfaced very well. The metal headgaskets are more picky then regular headgaskets in that situation.
oops, didnt notice that.

+1...the head needs to be milled to a certain RA for the metal head gasket to seat properly.
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