Down to two possible problems - Page 2

slader99 · 05-27-2008, 03:23 AM

Disregard the post below, I didn't notice that you had mentioned the wire with burns went to the frame. No problem with having an extra beefy wire running to ground!

Where was the "burned piece of wire"? Take a picture of its location and post it for us. Insulation missing on a ground wire wouldn't cause you any issues whatsoever. As long as the ground conductors aren't severed, there is no need for insualtion on them.

It sounds to me like its a hot (live wire) that is shorting against your body. That would explain the unwillingness to start even with jumpers attached.

If I were you, I would jumper the car again, and while the ignition switch is in the on position, use your voltmeter to see if there is voltage between that burned wire and the frame of your car. If you want you can skip that step and jump straight to replacing the section of wire with a piece of similar gauge. (You don't want a piece of 26 gauge wire with a 8 gauge section in it, it looks crappy and will be hard to join effectively) If it is indeed a live wire that has been shorting against your body, your battery is probably now pooched because automotive batteries don't take depleting to emtpy very well.....

If that burned piece of wire is your problem, after you've patched up the wire nicely (I'd solder then heat shirnk or electrical tape your joints) the car should have no issue starting when jumpered to a heathly battery.

KingCobra · 05-27-2008, 04:35 AM

OK, gotta love internet troubleshooting!!! LOL

Motor is turning over...

Fuel Pump is working...

EFI Fuse good?

Ignitor is working and sending signal to the coils??? (should have constant 12v to all coils if the ignitor is working). Also help to plug in a noid light to see if you are getting pulses from the ignitor...

Main relay has been checked??? (you can usually swap this relay out with the a/c magnetic clutch, as they share the same relay).

Circuit opening Relay good??? (IIRC this uses the same relay too).

Timing Belt jumped timing??? (not likely but could cause this too).

Although in an unmodified car, these should never be issues, but you might still wanna check these, look at the neutral start switch, and the theft control computer. God forbid if a previous owner didn't know what they were doing wiring something into the car, these could cause problems too.

Just some ideas, suggestions to look into! I could come up with more but these are some things I could quickly think of. Good Luck!

Micahwc · 05-28-2008, 07:29 PM

I am currently looking at the TSRM online, and I believe that the wire that did not have any insulation was not a ground wire. Looking on page 26, there is no grounding point near where this wire is. This wire is against the firewall, a little off center on the passenger side. It runs from the engine to the frame of the car. So if this were a live wire and it was shorting out on the frame, this could be my problem? I'll post a pic of the wire later.

Micahwc · 07-13-2008, 10:18 AM

Problem solved, thanks for your help. As usual, it was something really simple. I replaced the clamp on the negative battery cable with a cheap one from walmart, and replaced the 8 gauge cable with a 4 gauge cable. I also replaced one wire leading to the CPS. The car started on the first try and hasn't given me any problems since.

Thanks a lot for the help.

05-27-2008, 03:23 AM	#11
slader99 Stock Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: canada Posts: 26	Disregard the post below, I didn't notice that you had mentioned the wire with burns went to the frame. No problem with having an extra beefy wire running to ground! Where was the "burned piece of wire"? Take a picture of its location and post it for us. Insulation missing on a ground wire wouldn't cause you any issues whatsoever. As long as the ground conductors aren't severed, there is no need for insualtion on them. It sounds to me like its a hot (live wire) that is shorting against your body. That would explain the unwillingness to start even with jumpers attached. If I were you, I would jumper the car again, and while the ignition switch is in the on position, use your voltmeter to see if there is voltage between that burned wire and the frame of your car. If you want you can skip that step and jump straight to replacing the section of wire with a piece of similar gauge. (You don't want a piece of 26 gauge wire with a 8 gauge section in it, it looks crappy and will be hard to join effectively) If it is indeed a live wire that has been shorting against your body, your battery is probably now pooched because automotive batteries don't take depleting to emtpy very well..... If that burned piece of wire is your problem, after you've patched up the wire nicely (I'd solder then heat shirnk or electrical tape your joints) the car should have no issue starting when jumpered to a heathly battery. Last edited by slader99; 05-27-2008 at 03:33 AM. Reason: ignorance

05-27-2008, 04:35 AM	#12
KingCobra Stock Join Date: May 2008 Location: West Melbourne, FL Posts: 1	OK, gotta love internet troubleshooting!!! LOL Motor is turning over... Fuel Pump is working... EFI Fuse good? Ignitor is working and sending signal to the coils??? (should have constant 12v to all coils if the ignitor is working). Also help to plug in a noid light to see if you are getting pulses from the ignitor... Main relay has been checked??? (you can usually swap this relay out with the a/c magnetic clutch, as they share the same relay). Circuit opening Relay good??? (IIRC this uses the same relay too). Timing Belt jumped timing??? (not likely but could cause this too). Although in an unmodified car, these should never be issues, but you might still wanna check these, look at the neutral start switch, and the theft control computer. God forbid if a previous owner didn't know what they were doing wiring something into the car, these could cause problems too. Just some ideas, suggestions to look into! I could come up with more but these are some things I could quickly think of. Good Luck! __________________ Curtis 89 Supra (BHG) 93 Camry V6 SE 92 Cressida (1JZ-GTE) 94 Supra TT

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05-28-2008, 07:29 PM	#13
Micahwc Intake Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: johnson city TN Posts: 30	I am currently looking at the TSRM online, and I believe that the wire that did not have any insulation was not a ground wire. Looking on page 26, there is no grounding point near where this wire is. This wire is against the firewall, a little off center on the passenger side. It runs from the engine to the frame of the car. So if this were a live wire and it was shorting out on the frame, this could be my problem? I'll post a pic of the wire later.

07-13-2008, 10:18 AM	#14
Micahwc Intake Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: johnson city TN Posts: 30	Problem solved, thanks for your help. As usual, it was something really simple. I replaced the clamp on the negative battery cable with a cheap one from walmart, and replaced the 8 gauge cable with a 4 gauge cable. I also replaced one wire leading to the CPS. The car started on the first try and hasn't given me any problems since. Thanks a lot for the help.