coolant on top of piston

supramacist · 05-01-2008, 06:08 AM

It scares me that you said you just slapped a gasket on it and whatever other things you rambled on about.

You did this yourself or payed to have it done?

Was any machining involved?

You'll be lucky if you didn't just scrap your engine.

EDIT: anything that requires oil as a lubricant. can NEVER come in contact with coolant.
why? because oil will never bond to that surface after coolant touches it.. if its on top of your piston.
its inside your cylinder walls.

sevenmgte · 05-01-2008, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supramacist

It scares me that you said you just slapped a gasket on it and whatever other things you rambled on about.

You did this yourself or payed to have it done?

Was any machining involved?

You'll be lucky if you didn't just scrap your engine.

EDIT: anything that requires oil as a lubricant. can NEVER come in contact with coolant.
why? because oil will never bond to that surface after coolant touches it.. if its on top of your piston.
its inside your cylinder walls.

no i took the head to a machinist to resuface it and check out all the valves.he resurface it and say the valves look good.
but thanks guys

mkiiisupra · 05-01-2008, 12:46 PM

if you used ARPs they have to be retorqued after a certain mileage its in the instructions that come with em

supramacist · 05-01-2008, 06:34 PM

What did you with the block??? Machine wise?

sevenmgte · 05-02-2008, 02:04 AM

i didn't know that i had to do the block too, so thats why i did not resueface the block last time. this time will sure do it, but i don't know if the block is still reusable does any one know? cause when i turn the crank shaft bolt to rotate the piston there's water/coolant on the wall of piston hole that sucks. one more thing, i drain oil and it was not mix with coolant.thats good right?

supramacist · 05-02-2008, 02:34 AM

It's going to have to be machined inside and out and you're going to have to buy real performance parts instead of just toyota oem.

I'm not sure that you shouldn't cut your losses.

05-01-2008, 06:08 AM	#1
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	It scares me that you said you just slapped a gasket on it and whatever other things you rambled on about. You did this yourself or payed to have it done? Was any machining involved? You'll be lucky if you didn't just scrap your engine. EDIT: anything that requires oil as a lubricant. can NEVER come in contact with coolant. why? because oil will never bond to that surface after coolant touches it.. if its on top of your piston. its inside your cylinder walls. Last edited by supramacist; 05-01-2008 at 06:11 AM.

05-01-2008, 12:46 PM	#3
mkiiisupra Lexus & 550's Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 570 Blog Entries: 1	if you used ARPs they have to be retorqued after a certain mileage its in the instructions that come with em __________________ 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo A/T ------------------------------------------------ Questions about oil? take a look http://www.supramania.com/aehaas/

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05-01-2008, 06:34 PM	#4
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	What did you with the block??? Machine wise?

05-02-2008, 02:04 AM	#5
sevenmgte Intake Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oroville Posts: 31	i didn't know that i had to do the block too, so thats why i did not resueface the block last time. this time will sure do it, but i don't know if the block is still reusable does any one know? cause when i turn the crank shaft bolt to rotate the piston there's water/coolant on the wall of piston hole that sucks. one more thing, i drain oil and it was not mix with coolant.thats good right?

05-02-2008, 02:34 AM	#6
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	It's going to have to be machined inside and out and you're going to have to buy real performance parts instead of just toyota oem. I'm not sure that you shouldn't cut your losses.