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Old 05-11-2008, 03:58 AM   #1
slader99
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Default Heater Union (Coolant Leak)

Symptom: Coolant leak @ rear engine, hoses and clamps are all fine, coolant running down EGR cover. (Note: Mrnickleye pointed out that coolant doesn’t pass behind the EGR cover… Tightening the EGR cover will NOT remedy any coolant leaks in this area.)

I have read several posts on the forum stating the tightening/removing the heater union banjo bolt is impossible while the head is on the block, engine in car. For this minor coolant leak, removing the head adds an unacceptable amount of cost and manhours to the fix. It can be done with a 32 mm socket, 3/8” breaker bar, Drill + 13/16” bit, or dermal without removing the head. Below is a picture showing the heater union and the procedure for fixing this leak. The “union” consists of a union, a banjo bolt, and two washer/gaskets.

1) Go to your local autoparts store and buy a standard 3/8” drive 32mm socket.
2) Drain about 1L of coolant from the Rad.
3) Remove the hose clamp and hose from the top of the banjo bolt.
4) Place socket over fitting to make sure it clears the firewall.
5) You should find that the socket slips over the top of the banjo bolt and bottoms out on the top of the banjo bolt before engaging the 32mm head. If you are unable to slip the socket over the banjo bolt, you purchased a non-standard socket that is too tall, return it for a shorter socket.
6) Remove socket and using drill or dermal, remove about 1/4” material from the inside of the socket creating a 13/16” diameter recess for the heater union banjo bolt. (Note: If you are using a 13/16” bit, be aware that the shape and hardness of the socket material is going to seriously affect the life of the drill bit…..)
7) Blow out the chips, slip the socket over the union (it should now engage the 32mm section of the banjo bolt) attach your 3/8” breaker bar and determine if the bolt is snug. The spec is 43ft.lb. That means if your using a 12” breaker bar you should be pulling on it with about 40lb of force. My union was noticeably loose, so I tightened it and it fixed my leak. Be warned that if you strip the threads out of the head it will be an extremely expensive and time consuming mistake. TIGHTEN WITH CAUTION. If you found this fitting was loose, do your hose back up, top off your coolant, congrats your done, if not, on to step 8.
8) So you decided that your union is already as tight as you feel comfortable with. Remove the remaining clamp and hose from the union, and then remove the union assembly. You will need two new union washers. You are going to need to use grease to stick these unions in place, or better yet, hi-temp silicon.
9) Smear your washers with high temp silicon to stick them to either side of the union. Smear additional silicon on the top and bottom of the union assembly and add the banjo bolt. Put the assembly in place making sure that you don’t knock the union washers off the assembly or your leak will be worse than when you started, if you used silicon or grease you should be fine. This is defiantly the trickiest part of the procedure; it’s sounds easier than it is.
10) Tighten the banjo bolt, attach your two hoses. If you used silicon, it’s probably worth waiting an hour or so for it to set, if you used grease continue on.
11) Top off with coolant and fire her up. If you still leaking coolant, must have been from somewhere other than this fitting!!!

Sorry for the length of this essay, hope it helps!
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:50 AM   #2
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Bloody good write up Slader99, Toyota part #`s below. As you can see you need to order 4 items, the top and bottom gasket/washers have the same part # `s. Very hot in the UK today, need to get on with replacing my shocks. Will follow up with some more info of my experience with replacing that heat union later. Temperature must be around 74 ? F, At last summer has arrived in the UK, catch yer later.
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:34 AM   #3
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Assuming you don't wreak your union bolt and union pipe, you will only have to replace the gasket washers part # 90430-22008.... If you are using silicon you might even be able to reuse them, but for the cost and potential effort saved it makes sense to replace them while you can.

Thanks for the props Bill, I just hope this helps someone out. It took me a long time to decide that I was gonna attack this with the head on engine in car, but rather than make some elaborate tool I decided to go with this socket hack.... Just one more custom toyota SST I guess
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Old 10-22-2008, 02:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slader99 View Post
Symptom: Coolant leak @ rear engine, hoses and clamps are all fine, coolant running down EGR cover. (Note: Mrnickleye pointed out that coolant doesn’t pass behind the EGR cover… Tightening the EGR cover will NOT remedy any coolant leaks in this area.)

I have read several posts on the forum stating the tightening/removing the heater union banjo bolt is impossible while the head is on the block, engine in car. For this minor coolant leak, removing the head adds an unacceptable amount of cost and manhours to the fix. It can be done with a 32 mm socket, 3/8” breaker bar, Drill + 13/16” bit, or dermal without removing the head. Below is a picture showing the heater union and the procedure for fixing this leak. The “union” consists of a union, a banjo bolt, and two washer/gaskets.

1) Go to your local autoparts store and buy a standard 3/8” drive 32mm socket.
2) Drain about 1L of coolant from the Rad.
3) Remove the hose clamp and hose from the top of the banjo bolt.
4) Place socket over fitting to make sure it clears the firewall.
5) You should find that the socket slips over the top of the banjo bolt and bottoms out on the top of the banjo bolt before engaging the 32mm head. If you are unable to slip the socket over the banjo bolt, you purchased a non-standard socket that is too tall, return it for a shorter socket.
6) Remove socket and using drill or dermal, remove about 1/4” material from the inside of the socket creating a 13/16” diameter recess for the heater union banjo bolt. (Note: If you are using a 13/16” bit, be aware that the shape and hardness of the socket material is going to seriously affect the life of the drill bit…..)
7) Blow out the chips, slip the socket over the union (it should now engage the 32mm section of the banjo bolt) attach your 3/8” breaker bar and determine if the bolt is snug. The spec is 43ft.lb. That means if your using a 12” breaker bar you should be pulling on it with about 40lb of force. My union was noticeably loose, so I tightened it and it fixed my leak. Be warned that if you strip the threads out of the head it will be an extremely expensive and time consuming mistake. TIGHTEN WITH CAUTION. If you found this fitting was loose, do your hose back up, top off your coolant, congrats your done, if not, on to step 8.
8) So you decided that your union is already as tight as you feel comfortable with. Remove the remaining clamp and hose from the union, and then remove the union assembly. You will need two new union washers. You are going to need to use grease to stick these unions in place, or better yet, hi-temp silicon.
9) Smear your washers with high temp silicon to stick them to either side of the union. Smear additional silicon on the top and bottom of the union assembly and add the banjo bolt. Put the assembly in place making sure that you don’t knock the union washers off the assembly or your leak will be worse than when you started, if you used silicon or grease you should be fine. This is defiantly the trickiest part of the procedure; it’s sounds easier than it is.
10) Tighten the banjo bolt, attach your two hoses. If you used silicon, it’s probably worth waiting an hour or so for it to set, if you used grease continue on.
11) Top off with coolant and fire her up. If you still leaking coolant, must have been from somewhere other than this fitting!!!

Sorry for the length of this essay, hope it helps!
hi we're having coolant leak onto carpet on left [front os seat..just after havin air fixed by a/c dudes-with new compessor and tx valve.do u think this was related to work done?he put gunk in it to stop the leak.any sugestions?g
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:24 AM   #5
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i would guess the heater core is rotten , problem is they practically build the supra around the heater core
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddmcse View Post
i would guess the heater core is rotten , problem is they practically build the supra around the heater core
thanks,the heater was always on when we picked up car.when a/c man installed new compressor n valve,he had to leave heater hose disconnected n if son wants heat ,he attatches hose under bonnet.does that sound like a heater core problem still ? n shudnt the guy have checked this when he first looked at it?or while he was in there-or is heater core located away from compressor n valve?
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:28 AM   #7
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Is there anyone here how has a predrilled socket i can buy off of them. I dont really feel like going through the hassel of making one if someone has one they are not using.
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:45 PM   #8
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This may be an alternative way to modify the socket; I used a hand held angle grinder with the socket clamped in a vice to grind down the socket to the required length. Depending on the thickness of your wrench this should give you just enough room to clear the firewall/bulkhead.

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Old 12-26-2009, 07:48 PM   #9
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hey not to hijack but im tryint to buy the union above the egr valve for my n/a but the part number doesnt show up when i search it. i think Bills's part numbers are different from the UK. anyone have a link?

thanks
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Old 12-26-2009, 08:24 PM   #10
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Try this link http://www.toyodiy.com click parts reference, select your car, enter your Vin # or follow the instructions. Let us know how you get on. Dont get confused with figure item numbers and Toyota part numbers. The Toyota part numbers should be the same world wide.
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