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Old 04-28-2008, 10:26 PM   #1
mustangtw5901
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Ok, thanks for the help. I think I found and knocked out the main problem of no power to the ecu or B+ in the diagnostic port. It turns out the IGN 7.5 amp fuse in the driver under dash fuse pannel wasent making good enough contact in the socket so I bent the blades a little so now it fits snug. So check engine light is back on and working and now i have power at B+ and at the ig sw at the ecu. I also have 10.8vs at the fuel pump while cranking, so I guess that means I have fuel going to the motor. My problem now is that I still have no spark.
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:33 PM   #2
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Meter the ignitor.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:43 AM   #3
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try this...same thing happened to me i checked and tried everything but it was my alarm. i just had to d/c the battery for about a min then reconnect and it started.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:51 AM   #4
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Factory alarm wiring cuts the starter... so it wouldn't be cranking. Good thought though.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:56 AM   #5
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Well, here is the latest update. I decided to start with checking the cam sensor and I think I found a problem. When I test the pickup coils for resistance as per the tsrm, I have all the correct readings except between plug terminal NE and G. Between G1 and G I had 174 ohms and between G2 and G i also had around 175 ohms. But when I checked NE and G I had an OL reading on the meter indicating excessive resistance or even an open. So I figure this can't be good and head to the local junk yard to find a cam sensor. Luckly I found one, but it looked in worse condition then mine. I bought it thinking I can make one good one out of both. The ohms checked ok on the junk yard unit so I swaped the internals into my housing. I am going to test it out tommrrow and I'll let you all know how it goes. If it still dosent start, then I guess I'll move on to the ignitor. Do you all think that my problem with the cam sensor could prevent the car from getting spark? And also, now that the resistance readings are ok, can the sensor still be faulty? Thanks
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:14 AM   #6
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Wow, you really should have a code 12 and 13 stored in the ECU. I'm quite sure that no NE signal would kill the ignition sequence.
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:47 AM   #7
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Yes, I do have code 12 stored. I was able to check for codes after I got the problem with the ign 7.5amp fuse worked out and was able to get the computer back online. Thats another reason I wanted to start at the cam sensor first.
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