car cranks, but no fuel or spark
 

Hi, I just bought a 1987 supra turbo 5spd and it dosent run. I am working on it, trying to diagnose the problem, but am having some difficulties. What I know is that the engine is not getting fuel or spark. When I turn the ignition on I do not hear the fuel pump run and the check engine light does not illuminate. The engine will crank over. I have checked all the fuses/relays and they all are ok. When I try to jump the fuel pump at the diagnostic port (b+ and fp), the fuel pump does not turn on. I have no power at b+ in the diagnostic port. When I run a jumper from the positive battery terminal to the fp port in the diagnostic box the fuel pump works. At the ecu I have power at the batt terminal and e1, but no power between e1 and +B, e1 and +B1, and e1 and IG SW. I have no power also when going to body ground instead of e1. So does anyone have a clue what problem this might be? I am thinking either ECU or ignition switch? Do these go bad often? Thanks for any help.

Double check the main EFI relay and test the ignition switch via the harness connection underneath the switch beside the steering column. B+ would still have power if the ECU were dead.

Do you have link to, or can you tell me the proceadure for testing the ignition switch? I cant seem to find it on the online tsrm for the 87. Thanks.

I'm at work right now so I don't have my '88 TEWD and TSRM with me. You need to find out the wire colors for IG1 (Black/White) and IG2 (Black/Orange) and test those for continuity with the switch turned and with it just in the "ON" position. IG2 is the main suspect. Both should show 12v when tested against ground.

MK3 TEWD On-Line

Ok, thanks for the help. I think I found and knocked out the main problem of no power to the ecu or B+ in the diagnostic port. It turns out the IGN 7.5 amp fuse in the driver under dash fuse pannel wasent making good enough contact in the socket so I bent the blades a little so now it fits snug. So check engine light is back on and working and now i have power at B+ and at the ig sw at the ecu. I also have 10.8vs at the fuel pump while cranking, so I guess that means I have fuel going to the motor. My problem now is that I still have no spark.

Meter the ignitor.

try this...same thing happened to me i checked and tried everything but it was my alarm. i just had to d/c the battery for about a min then reconnect and it started.

Factory alarm wiring cuts the starter... so it wouldn't be cranking. Good thought though.

Well, here is the latest update. I decided to start with checking the cam sensor and I think I found a problem. When I test the pickup coils for resistance as per the tsrm, I have all the correct readings except between plug terminal NE and G. Between G1 and G I had 174 ohms and between G2 and G i also had around 175 ohms. But when I checked NE and G I had an OL reading on the meter indicating excessive resistance or even an open. So I figure this can't be good and head to the local junk yard to find a cam sensor. Luckly I found one, but it looked in worse condition then mine. I bought it thinking I can make one good one out of both. The ohms checked ok on the junk yard unit so I swaped the internals into my housing. I am going to test it out tommrrow and I'll let you all know how it goes. If it still dosent start, then I guess I'll move on to the ignitor. Do you all think that my problem with the cam sensor could prevent the car from getting spark? And also, now that the resistance readings are ok, can the sensor still be faulty? Thanks

Wow, you really should have a code 12 and 13 stored in the ECU. I'm quite sure that no NE signal would kill the ignition sequence.