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Old 08-24-2007, 04:19 PM   #1
Spudboy
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Looks like you sent your head to the machine shop with cams, valves and cam timing belt pulleys still on?

That didn't cause any problems for them or you?

How did they leak and crack test your head?


Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
The picture really doesnt do it justice. It is really smooth, and looks like a f-in mirror. But I'm gonna play it safe and use a dealer head gasket. Please forgive my inexperience but what is a lapping tool? I used a whiz wheel with very fine grit Scotch 3M on the block, which made it look all swirlly, like it polished the metal. I really never knew cast iron could look like that. But what do I know this is my first head gasket job ever.

Im not liking the idea of it blowing again after 10,000 miles so stock it is.

Still haven't gotten the head back yet. I'm very anxious to put her back together.

Just for those who want to know I've decided to use ARP studs instead of bolts. Do the cams have to be out to torque the ARP nuts?
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Old 08-24-2007, 09:51 PM   #2
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What is this (shinny silver) 1st picture? Drivers right, lower front of block.

When I was disconnecting wires this plastic grey cap came off the "What is this" very easy. The wire and it's connector underneath doesn't make sense to me as to how or where it connects.



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Old 08-25-2007, 06:44 PM   #3
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Oil pressure sender unit.
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Old 08-25-2007, 11:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill UK
Oil pressure sender unit.
Thanks Bill.
How the heck does that wire connect?
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:45 AM   #5
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It slides on.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:20 AM   #6
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Another question...when using ARP studs and nuts, should I put the studs in then somehow gently lower the head on? Or, what's the opinions and experiences from those who have installed these ARP's?
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
It slides on.
Thanks...I can see that now.
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