Blown Head Gasket repair w/pics

Monkey · 12-30-2006, 03:01 AM

No offense, IHateHacks, but apparently the 5 impacts that you were using to get the crank pulley bolt off were shit. I have an Ingersol Rand 1/2 inch impact, and i have NO problem getting crank bolts off with it. If it wont fit because of space constraints, an extra long 1/2 inch drive ratchet with the appropriate socket will get it off, just as well. By the way, the pry bar in the starter is nothing new. I've been doing that for years, when i get a stubborn crank bolt that won't work with the impact or just ratchet method. It's my last resort when the first two options fail. It hardly ever comes to that option, though. Then again, i'm accustomed to doing things to get the job done, that most of you probably haven't done or seen, before. When you do it long enough, you tend to learn easier ways to do it and short cuts. Time is money, in my line of work. That's why i hate having to wait around for parts. It kills me.

IHateHacks · 12-30-2006, 02:44 PM

"No offense, IHateHacks, but apparently the 5 impacts that you were using to get the crank pulley bolt off were shit."

Yes I agree the craftsman was a POS, but the titanium series IR and the last one I used that required 120psi were definitely not junk. I talked to some other professional mechanics and they said that I should have used a 3/4" impact gun. And I was just being sarcastic about patenting that little trick. It says it right in the TSRM. I just didnt want to f-up one of the teeth on the flywheel, but when there is no other choice, I quickly overcame my fear.

"By the way, the pry bar in the starter is nothing new."

It wasn't in the starter, it was in the starter hole in the bellhousing. And if you were doing it for years why didnt you drop a dime and help me out before when I was asking- "Except for the starter method, how does everyone else loosen their crank bolt?"

No offense but it seems that most (not all) people here are more about 1-uping each other and claiming that they are superior, then about helping each other. To be frank I really dont care how long you say you've been a mechanic or about how you brag you've done something before. I respect someone much much more when they just drop a hint about what Im having trouble with. Those are the people that make me say damn that guy knows his stuff. Sorry, you just made me mad claiming all 5 of the guns were junk when you've never even seen them, you just make a blind assumption. The guns werent even mine so I dont know why Im even mad. Its the fact that you just come to a conclusion with no information other than they didn't get off the crank bolt. Remember a properly torqued 7M crank bolt is torqued to 195 ft-lbs. Most other manufacturers only require around 100 ft-lbs. Those guns take off crank bolts everyday at a BMW dealership because the crank bolts aren't torqued to 195 ft-lbs. All crank bolts are not created equal, but you should have known that.

IHateHacks · 12-31-2006, 09:10 PM

I stripped the head of everything but the cams. I'll have a picture up tomarrow. I'm doing all of this to show all the people who aren't mechanics that anyone can do a head gasket job. You don't have to be superman. You just need the knowledge. Speaking of which, to anyone who wants to know how to get the heater union off (that fitting that the heater hose goes on on the top back of the engine) you'll need a 32mm deep socket.

IHateHacks · 01-01-2007, 04:03 PM

Sending it out today. Next picture will be it looking brand new. Here's a picture of the good ol' EGR cooler. I can see this being the source of a mysterious coolant leak via that big stupid plug Toyota felt the need for putting in there. Ill ask it again (just like the 4 plugs that hold on the no. 3 cylinder head cover) Why did Toyota just throw plugs (at rediculous sizes) in various areas throughout the 7M? Its not like they serve any purpose on planet earth. Why didn't they just cast it over like the rest of the head? I think its pay back for buying a car just because its turbocharged. Compared to other manufacturers Toyota design sucks dick.

IHateHacks · 01-03-2007, 04:05 PM

Does this surface look good enough for a metal head gasket?

ddmcse · 01-04-2007, 02:04 AM

it doesn't look good in the picture.
it needs to be smoother than a babies ass .
the metal is not forgiving where as the carbon or whatever the stock is made from is forgiving.
you might want to re-think it . i put a metal gasket on a block that looked good enough to me once and it lasted about 10k miles . once you do put a metal gasket on it's not likely that you are gonna start boosting less . no infact you'll probably start pushing more into the cylinders to really test the
smooth theory .. you know . i have a lapping tool over here
you've seen some of my bhg footage ?
http://www.ddmcse.com/turbo/bhg_2003.htm

IHateHacks · 01-04-2007, 06:27 PM

The picture really doesnt do it justice. It is really smooth, and looks like a f-in mirror. But I'm gonna play it safe and use a dealer head gasket. Please forgive my inexperience but what is a lapping tool? I used a whiz wheel with very fine grit Scotch 3M on the block, which made it look all swirlly, like it polished the metal. I really never knew cast iron could look like that. But what do I know this is my first head gasket job ever.

Im not liking the idea of it blowing again after 10,000 miles so stock it is.

Still haven't gotten the head back yet. I'm very anxious to put her back together.

Just for those who want to know I've decided to use ARP studs instead of bolts. Do the cams have to be out to torque the ARP nuts?

yama1 · 04-07-2007, 02:46 PM

my bad, I didn't realize there were many more replys after the crank pulley removal. Whoops

88Tsupra · 04-07-2007, 04:36 PM

hey how much does it cost to resurface and lap both top and bottom block...and one more question my idle is funny i know my timing is off because the last owner retarded the shit out of it..but i got it to idle at 900rpm buh on cold nights itll idle around 1200-1100 im thinkin my HG is going bad now

Just to say the last previous owner is a machanic and he said he replaced it with a metal gasket but my concern is that hes lieing

Spudboy · 08-24-2007, 04:09 PM

This is a great thread. I'm feeling your pain.
I just got my head off. The gasket seems perfect. (had it replaced 8k miles ago with stock gasket and bolts...will use metal and ARP now)
I have a fluid leak from my EGR cooler too but the gasket was fine. Maybe the bolts had been to loose but that doesn't acount for the fluid.
You stated I can see this being the source of a mysterious coolant leak via that big stupid plug...
Did you ever learn if that big stupid plug was the source? Or what did you learn?
(I'll have lots more questions later...)

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Sending it out today. Next picture will be it looking brand new. Here's a picture of the good ol' EGR cooler. I can see this being the source of a mysterious coolant leak via that big stupid plug Toyota felt the need for putting in there. Ill ask it again (just like the 4 plugs that hold on the no. 3 cylinder head cover) Why did Toyota just throw plugs (at rediculous sizes) in various areas throughout the 7M? Its not like they serve any purpose on planet earth. Why didn't they just cast it over like the rest of the head? I think its pay back for buying a car just because its turbocharged. Compared to other manufacturers Toyota design sucks dick.

12-30-2006, 03:01 AM	#1
Monkey 3" Exhaust Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Madison, MS. Posts: 51	No offense, IHateHacks, but apparently the 5 impacts that you were using to get the crank pulley bolt off were shit. I have an Ingersol Rand 1/2 inch impact, and i have NO problem getting crank bolts off with it. If it wont fit because of space constraints, an extra long 1/2 inch drive ratchet with the appropriate socket will get it off, just as well. By the way, the pry bar in the starter is nothing new. I've been doing that for years, when i get a stubborn crank bolt that won't work with the impact or just ratchet method. It's my last resort when the first two options fail. It hardly ever comes to that option, though. Then again, i'm accustomed to doing things to get the job done, that most of you probably haven't done or seen, before. When you do it long enough, you tend to learn easier ways to do it and short cuts. Time is money, in my line of work. That's why i hate having to wait around for parts. It kills me. Last edited by Monkey; 12-30-2006 at 03:04 AM.

12-30-2006, 02:44 PM	#2
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	"No offense, IHateHacks, but apparently the 5 impacts that you were using to get the crank pulley bolt off were shit." Yes I agree the craftsman was a POS, but the titanium series IR and the last one I used that required 120psi were definitely not junk. I talked to some other professional mechanics and they said that I should have used a 3/4" impact gun. And I was just being sarcastic about patenting that little trick. It says it right in the TSRM. I just didnt want to f-up one of the teeth on the flywheel, but when there is no other choice, I quickly overcame my fear. "By the way, the pry bar in the starter is nothing new." It wasn't in the starter, it was in the starter hole in the bellhousing. And if you were doing it for years why didnt you drop a dime and help me out before when I was asking- "Except for the starter method, how does everyone else loosen their crank bolt?" No offense but it seems that most (not all) people here are more about 1-uping each other and claiming that they are superior, then about helping each other. To be frank I really dont care how long you say you've been a mechanic or about how you brag you've done something before. I respect someone much much more when they just drop a hint about what Im having trouble with. Those are the people that make me say damn that guy knows his stuff. Sorry, you just made me mad claiming all 5 of the guns were junk when you've never even seen them, you just make a blind assumption. The guns werent even mine so I dont know why Im even mad. Its the fact that you just come to a conclusion with no information other than they didn't get off the crank bolt. Remember a properly torqued 7M crank bolt is torqued to 195 ft-lbs. Most other manufacturers only require around 100 ft-lbs. Those guns take off crank bolts everyday at a BMW dealership because the crank bolts aren't torqued to 195 ft-lbs. All crank bolts are not created equal, but you should have known that. Last edited by IHateHacks; 12-30-2006 at 02:52 PM.

01-04-2007, 02:04 AM	#6
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	it doesn't look good in the picture. it needs to be smoother than a babies ass . the metal is not forgiving where as the carbon or whatever the stock is made from is forgiving. you might want to re-think it . i put a metal gasket on a block that looked good enough to me once and it lasted about 10k miles . once you do put a metal gasket on it's not likely that you are gonna start boosting less . no infact you'll probably start pushing more into the cylinders to really test the smooth theory .. you know . i have a lapping tool over here you've seen some of my bhg footage ? http://www.ddmcse.com/turbo/bhg_2003.htm __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

04-07-2007, 04:36 PM	#9
88Tsupra 12psi boost Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: long beach, CA Posts: 252	hey how much does it cost to resurface and lap both top and bottom block...and one more question my idle is funny i know my timing is off because the last owner retarded the shit out of it..but i got it to idle at 900rpm buh on cold nights itll idle around 1200-1100 im thinkin my HG is going bad now Just to say the last previous owner is a machanic and he said he replaced it with a metal gasket but my concern is that hes lieing __________________ 88turbo targa-white original Pin Stripe custom intake-Tenzo filter.....Momo racing seats and steering wheel... apexi exhaust tip-custom 3" piping. Replaced with RSR GT II NGK plug and wires HID conversion head lights HKS Turbo Timer Type-1 (in black) Tial BOV BIC DDP

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12-31-2006, 09:10 PM	#3
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	I stripped the head of everything but the cams. I'll have a picture up tomarrow. I'm doing all of this to show all the people who aren't mechanics that anyone can do a head gasket job. You don't have to be superman. You just need the knowledge. Speaking of which, to anyone who wants to know how to get the heater union off (that fitting that the heater hose goes on on the top back of the engine) you'll need a 32mm deep socket.

01-01-2007, 04:03 PM	#4
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Sending it out today. Next picture will be it looking brand new. Here's a picture of the good ol' EGR cooler. I can see this being the source of a mysterious coolant leak via that big stupid plug Toyota felt the need for putting in there. Ill ask it again (just like the 4 plugs that hold on the no. 3 cylinder head cover) Why did Toyota just throw plugs (at rediculous sizes) in various areas throughout the 7M? Its not like they serve any purpose on planet earth. Why didn't they just cast it over like the rest of the head? I think its pay back for buying a car just because its turbocharged. Compared to other manufacturers Toyota design sucks dick.

01-03-2007, 04:05 PM	#5
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Does this surface look good enough for a metal head gasket?

01-04-2007, 06:27 PM	#7
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	The picture really doesnt do it justice. It is really smooth, and looks like a f-in mirror. But I'm gonna play it safe and use a dealer head gasket. Please forgive my inexperience but what is a lapping tool? I used a whiz wheel with very fine grit Scotch 3M on the block, which made it look all swirlly, like it polished the metal. I really never knew cast iron could look like that. But what do I know this is my first head gasket job ever. Im not liking the idea of it blowing again after 10,000 miles so stock it is. Still haven't gotten the head back yet. I'm very anxious to put her back together. Just for those who want to know I've decided to use ARP studs instead of bolts. Do the cams have to be out to torque the ARP nuts?

04-07-2007, 02:46 PM	#8
yama1 Stock Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NEWNAN Posts: 5	my bad, I didn't realize there were many more replys after the crank pulley removal. Whoops