same i roasted my main between cylinders 3 and 4 LOL

i think you should try them out. if your not breaking shit or blowing shit up, your not trying hard enough, LOL
you could always sell them to me...
in the tsrm it says max overbore 84.25
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=48

also try researching cams, heard you can get your cam towers machined for a slightly longer duration/lift.

you should make your own build thread for your car. i am really diggin this overbore talk,:offwall:

if you got the money man then there's nothing to lose, just go with your plan and I would advise upgrading the connecting rods to because you cant be to sure if the stock rods can hold the extra hp/torque plus it never hurts to have that extra security.

Ya I could drop the rotating assembly but the thing is if the rings are bad the block would have to come out anyways for a hone or bore. But I'm just going to do a compression test from there I'll decide what I'm going to do. Plan so far is to paint the talons engine bay and push it out of the car port then pull the supra in for the head removal, send the head to the machine shop for a look over replace whats necessary (possible port and polish) slap'er back together and HOPEFULLY be fine.

You can hone the cylinders with the engine still in the car. Just put a rag in there to protect the crank. (after you pull the oil pan and pull the on rods out) you will have to put a rubber end on the con rod so you don't cratch the crank. It is do able. There is all kinds of ghetto things you can get away with that work just fine.

hahaha well knowing me I'd get to pissed off trying to hone it in the car.

Received the wiper motor from Bak'in yesterday and installed it, tested it out and it only works on low so I have another problem to find. Only two more possible problems left before everything affiliated with the wiper systems been checked and fixed.

Ok, there could be a grounding issue. Is this on your supra. What all have you replaced? I wasn't paying attention. I would say that it could be the switch but when that happens high speed works and low speeds don't. I will have to look at a wiring diagram to help diagnose anything.

well the only things left to change would be the switch in the column or the wcu for the wipers. The WCU was making a lot of noise when my other motor stopped so that's where i'm going to try next, going to try and test resistance and if its good then it have to be the switch its self.

i never got to test the wiper motor i sent out. really hope you get this sorted out...:x:

Hey, hows it going. Ya the Column switch is what I am guessing it is. To be honest I don't know what a WCU is (wiper control unit) Usually if something is making noise it should be replaced. I don't really know, but if you only have two to go then your almost there. I have replaced a few column switches and I know they go bad eventually. (a lot on American cars)

@ Canadianbak'insupra- I'm sure its fine bak'in, I'll get this sorted out soon as I'm done renovating the rents house for them.

After this next payday I should have more then enough to get my cylinder head all redone. Went and got a rough quote on what it might cost, $712 for hot tanking, valve guides, full valve job, decking, and pressure testing for cracks.
The WCU made a buzzing sound, but it stopped after I installed the new wiper motor. So that's where I'm going to go next I think, I know I can get one of those from the only scrapper that has a supra in stock.

I would get the wiper switch too.

You must have a lot of miles on your car. My head only needed $348.00 in machine work. After all, you can get a reman for $500.00.

Ok, once the head is clean you can search for cracks, they usually show right up. They can magnafux them to look for cracks, but not on aluminum. Your head is Aluminum so it cant be hot tanked, but they can put it in their parts cleaner.

The main thing you need is, the head cleaned($35), shaved($65), reground($200) with new valve seals in it.

You can put over sized valves in it, that is where heads can get expensive, then polishing the compustion champers (Better head distribution in the cylinder) Smooth out the exhaust ports (very important) then port match the intake by using the intake gaskets that are going on the car. (don't go beyond 90grit when porting the intake) you want the turbulent air for better fuel mixture. the exhaust should be a smooth as possible for quick evacuation.

Are you building this head so you can add a turbo later? Then you really want the chamber to be polished. (don't run more than 8.5 to 1 compression though, or else it will ping and predetonate.

does a re manufactured head come with all new components? as it sits right now I may end up just buying a valve spring compressor and pulling the valves myself. Then going to polish the valves and domes, port the intake and exhaust runners, so hopefully when I get the pacesetter header it'll be about the same diameter so I get a good flow.

As for miles well my supra has 263k kilometers which is like 165k miles, I've heard of these 5m's getting well into the 300k miles with proper maintenance before calling it quits.

Yes, that is exactly right. If you end up pulling the valves out yourself make sure you know where each valve goes. As they are worn to fit in each hole that they are in. Same with the lifters and rocker arms.

Sometimes when you rebuild a head the engine may smoke because the extra pressure on the rings, but I doubt this will happen, as long as you have changed your oil semi-often (every 7,000 miles or so)

What you have planned may only get small horse power increases. You should look for a junk head and practice polishing. Get the car running for the least amount possible for now and plan for a rebuild in in 65,000 miles. You can get the necessary machine work for the $348 or so I said earlier.

It's acturally really hard to properly port and polish a head. You need a flow bench. Your best bet is to plan a 1jz transplant if you want more power. I am going to throw some money away when I do my 5mge overbore. I will have the heads professionally done ($2000 by a racing outfit) and then bore and hone for the over size. The cost is about as much as to do the transplant, but I will only get 240hp (about the same as a Ferrari 308 of the same period.) The Jz1 will get much more. (not sure on specifics, but it's hundreds more)

You should really keep your car stock and running. Buying new shocks and struts is the best investment on my car. As the 85 supra is an awesome drift car. (I was impressed with my car after the new shocks and struts.) Your car is a fun car just driving it. Take care of it and keep the interior and exterior in the best shape possible to keep it's value. Value is the most important thing with this vintage.

I seriously doubt you need springs and guides. (make sure you replace the timing belt and tensioner pulley though)

http://rabidchimp.com/oversized-stai...ves-5m-6m.html

Rapid chimp has some oversized valves, but they are $432.00 for 12, that is $36 a piece. :crazy:

Rabit chimp is super expensive and I wouldn't really order from them until I had a lot of $ in the bank. I really would like to turbo the 5m in the future because virtually everyone does the 2jz or 1uz swap and I'm not one for following the beaten path.
But your right our supra's are awesome drift cars, I've slid it a bit and loved it, little harder to control then my friends 328i in a slide but once you get the hang of it your set. People seem to think you need to pump a shit ton of power to have a fun car but honestly our cars that put out 160hp is almost enough and 240 i think would be right around the sweet spot for drifting. Not to much power but just enough to keep the tires from grabbing when you don't want them to.
What kind of shock and springs you running? I wanna go kyb AGX's because I've heard there amazing but my friend said go with kyb gas-adjust's (I wont have to retro fit those unlike the AGX's) My friend also found a decent set of lowering springs at groundcotrol.com.

Ya, turbo is the best bang for you buck. You want to polish the chamber then, but make sure the valves stay in when you do this, You don't want to damage the seat. The key to turbo's is focusing on exhaust flow. don't worry about the intake side. (you're gonna need new rings for a turbo and a balanced and polished crank.) A turbo 5mge can cost money too. If you get that exhaust though you at least working your way up there.

Ya, I have a bar welded from the rear wheel wells, to stiffen the back of the car, but their are better ways to do this. Mine what done by someone else. It was used as a rally car.

I had Gabriel ultra's, I got a good deal on them and they are not as bad as people make them out to be. (they hold more pressure than Monroe's) KYB is better though. My upper support struts are kyb's. (I just have the stock springs, they work fine. as long as you stay stock you maintenance requirements are not that much; as it's built for reliability stock; it can take more abuse that way too)

edit* I just realized you you meant springs, not valve springs. I use stock ones either way. Springs don't go bad hardly at all. The only valve springs I seen that were bad were for the 60's. The springs from a McPherson strut system, I am sure it's the same. I have never seen a broken one, just a rusty and dirty one. I try to balance performance with cost, so...... Adjustable shocks are for people that are serious. They balance the car to the weight of the driver. You are talking about only marginal gains and that is really only for people in competition.

Well I'm just looking to stiff'n mine up a bit, makes a world of difference when you drift man. once again my buddies bimer was a prime example.
And As for springs I'm just looking for a short and stiffer spring rate, wanna drop the ride height by an 1.5" or 2" if possible for stability reasons.

not a fan of the bimers.
4500 rpm is not enough.
did you sort out the wipers yet or do i have to send you steering collum switches now, lol

hahaha good one! I'm highly doubtful its the switch, I'm thinking its the control module. I'm going to talk to my journeyman friend and get a second opinion before I go any farther on the wipers.
I was going to send the head in next week but since I just got my 3 speeding ticket today I might have to wait a little longer..... :dunno:

Well I got some big news......... I found some hidden rus.......let me rephrase that I found a lot of hidden rust. Its only paper thin in a couple of spots but its still scaring the heck outta me. I'd hate to just let this car go on the way side while its still very save able........ so I guess I have a decision to make on what I'm going to spend this years safely bonus on. Either put 1500 toward de rusting the supra to prolong its life or put the whole 2k into the talon project........suuuuuccchhh a hard choice. On a brighter note I have been offered a deal on a set of ST lowering springs from another supra owner, would drop the supra 1.5 inches and I should be able to get them for 240 shipped. Oh and the head is finally at the machine shop getting a "face" lift.

Cylinder head update
 

Well since I had the day off I figured what the hell why not work on the supra. So I got working on taking the head off, started at 12 pm and it took me till 3pm to finish. I thought that's not to bad a time for it being the first 5m I've worked on, big thanks to Canadianbak'n for posting the TSRM link for me (along with all the other help :bigthumb:).
To late to take it to the machine shop today so it'll be going tomorrow instead. When I got to taking the cylinder head off it was the moment of truth for me, and boy did it go in my favor! The pistons and cylinder walls are in great shape, can still see all the cross thatching from being honed. The top end looked just as good as the bottom end as well, I feel my spirits being lifted slightly now!

Will take some pics in a bit for you guys to look at.
Attachment 4672
Block got a pep talk....its a dsm thing
Attachment 4673
little before machine shop pics
Attachment 4674
Attachment 4675
all my cylinders looked like this so that's a plus





Forgot to say that I did a compression test before cylinder head removal and here's the results (dry test only):
#1- 170 psi
#2- 167 psi
#3- 170 psi
#4- 140 psi cylinder 4 and 6 are where I could see the HG had failed, cylinder 4 had the biggest failure
#5- 170 psi
#6- 150 psi

Just cleaned up parts and such today and measured my head studs, some had about 2mm stretch in them I just hope I can still use them. Also found out the whole felpro seal kit I bought is missing a lot of gaskets which is a huge let down. To add to that my cam towers need some serious machining looks like shavings got in between the cam and races in the towers, but the lobes for the rocker arms are perfect.

Attachment 4676
Worst one, felt litterly like sand paper, yet the cam wasn't to bad.
Attachment 4677
Attachment 4678
before
Attachment 4679
after

Figured well I had the top of the engine off I'd also take the time to give the block and engine bay a nice scrub (its filthy), get some before and after pics of that to.

looks good keep up the good work!

update time
 

ok well since I've been very lazy with the updates I'm just going to plaster everything up.
I got my head from the machine shop last weekend and was impressed with the price, it only cost $189.00. They resurfaced it a 0.006 ,cleaned it up, pressure tested it and installed new valve seals. But when I got to unwrapping my head (lol) the clean job was complete shit and still had rust, old gasket material, and carbon in the exhaust ports. So I spent and extra 2 hours cleaning it more instead of bolting it up and I was pissed off about it. Also got them to look at my cams and cam towers and they said they were in great shape. But continuing on I was waiting on parts till this monday so I couldn't really assemble much but now I'm at the home stretch. I had a little trouble timing the engine but I got it right after an hour, painted up my valve covers to (not my color of choice but its all they had) hope you guys like it. I've got everything back on and bolted up except for the oil pressure regulator, vacuum lines, accessory belts, clutch fan and shroud.
with out further ado here's the pic's:
Attachment 4692
Attachment 4693
Attachment 4694
Attachment 4695
Attachment 4696

stupid upload limit
Attachment 4697

Will take a pic tomorrow morning quickly to show where its at right now.
Attachment 4698

looks good and nice work on the valve covers.:bigthumb:

thanx man!

Well I finished her off today and added my coolant then went to start it........it wouldn't start!
So I checked for spark and had that, checked fuel and i have fuel to the rail then I rechecked my timing and all was good. so then I started checking over everything else double checking everything was connected and all vacuum lines were on, once again everything checked out. Tried to start it again and noticed it was back firing out of the intake, which means it has to be timing! So I checked again and again still good......I'm at a lose.

how about dizzy timing? and have you done a compression test? sucks if the motor is dry and no oil pressure has been built, but you could always prime it, retime it then do a compression test..

thats ruff man, i hate when that crap happens and have definitely suffered through it.

did you put your cams 180 out?? i have done this once before it happens...:dunno:

The compression before I pulled the head was
#1- 170 psi
#2- 165 psi
#3- 170 psi
#4- 140 psi
#5- 170 psi
#6- 150 psi

Here's some pics:
Attachment 4699
intake cam
Attachment 4700
exhaust cam
Attachment 4701
dizzy
Attachment 4702
Crank timing

I pull the timing belt back off and made sure everything was perfect with its timing marks but I noticed I couldn't get the timing belt on then.

Ok well I found my dizzy was 180 degrees out so I flipped that around and turned the key.......VROOM! it started has a little cough and stutter at the start every time but after that she has a steady idle and responds well to throttle. But of course there's bad news I'm hoping my valve aren't hitting my piston on one of the cylinders and its just lifter tick but I'm very worried. I checked the timing another 2 times and its good all around this time tho.......hmmm :dunno:

its a non interference engine, so even if your cams were 180 out your valves cant hit.

did you clean all your lash adjusters??

nothing more then wiping them off and them bleeding them in oil before install.

that should be fine, but more than worth the while to clean them with varsal or brake cleaner first, let dry, then prime with light weight oil

I didn't know it was safe to clean them with break clean hhmmm I may get another shot at cleaning them tho, as my com tower gaskets might be leaking already...... i didn't know they were different so I just grabbed one and installed the cam tower. After I got both on a realized I fucked up :crazy:

Hey and bak'in wondering if you have a wiper control unit laying around?

i can take a look around. do you have a picture?

either way in a few months im getting a free celica supra.

free?? wow your hooked up good, are you going to part it out or keep it?

Here's a pic of the wiper control module. should be brown like this:
Attachment 4703
Its located passenger side kick panel by the door and hidden behind another yellow control module.

ill take a look around, but i am getting a parts supra, so if you have not gotten one by then, i will have one for you.