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sounds like a solid plan man. I cant remember if you need pistons or not but I suggest evo 9 pistons if your doing a rebuild, they have a better compression ratio and less hot spots.
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ya the 420's, stay away from them!! take it you have a garage with all the essentials in it?
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so i get to pull it, fix that, reinstall and try again...oh well at least it sounded good for two minutes. just picked up the 92 talon the other day, it is CLEAN inside, and all there! everything looks great on it, im gonna replace the whole front body panel (except the bumper) and put a new core support on while i do the head. it is a very nice car for the 450 bux i spent. nice surprise under the hood too, someone did put on a small 16g, but its bone stock other than that. once were moved at the end of this month, i will be tearing into it and getting it running. i need to find a JDM cyclone intake manifold to put on later on. hows the 5m coming along?? (to get back on subject, haha) |
well the 5m's still at a stand still.... might be working on it soon though, found frame damage on my eclipse where it was hit in the rear end, just found it tonight and I'm freaking out a little. lol
So I might be putting the eclipse on hold and going back to the supra if I cant pull the frame back out with a come along. so things are going VERY bad right now and I'm bloody pissed. |
damn thats the pits! unibody frame damage can be spendy. id have it looked at by a shop to get an idea of how you could fix it or how much they can do it for.
as for the 5m, keep pluggin away. im still doing my 7m bits and pieces. most of the major stuff is there, just got a few little things to do. youll have to post some pictures man! |
sorry for the late reply! But ya I'm planning on taking it to 4 or 5 shops to get an estimate done, I was told to just use a come along to pull it out but I tried that and got no where! lol I'm picking up a flawless talon shell tomorrow if everything goes right and I'll take some pics then.
As for the 5M well she's all cozily wrapped under a tarp right now, I was thinking of getting the new rotors and pads soon but we'll see because we finally got a decent snow fall now. We're have an EXTREMELY weird winter...... we were above zero 3 days ago for the last like 3 weeks with no snow all december until now and now were -30 below (which is normal temp)! So your almost ready to put'r back together then eh? |
<cough>MR2s are better</cough> ;)
Frame damage is a killer for me... I seriously hate body work, but I'm not setup to do it myself so I try to avoid it completely. I've got a semi nasty hit in the side of the MR2 where there are three plies that all come together, so it's nothing that'll just "pull out"... I know enough to know that I'll be drilling out spot welds, straightening three plies of sheet metal, matching the curve of the exterior layer to the passenger side and then re-welding.... f u d g e.... I really need to get in well with a body guy and work out some trades. The one thing I could do with my '2' would be to just straighten everything as much as possible and then install the TRD widebody kit. It would cover the afflicted are completely.... but I don't know how I feel about that kit. But, the upside is I am capable of all of the install except the painting. Anyway, sorry for the thread-jack; Just had to share my loathing of body work. |
i feel your pain on the body work Cre. i abhor it. i never want to see another block sander as long as i live.
id love to have an MR2, but theres no way i could find a worth while project here for the right price. that talon was a steal. not to mention, ive found some good parts for it for dirt cheap lately. gm8 rhc6 turbo (brand new), G4CS 2.4l 6 bolt block from a mitsu expo (drop in stroker, aside from pistons), cylcone intake manifold (similar to the mazda and ford variable intake runner length system) and some megan racing coils with kyb gr2's. spent less than 500 on all that. i havent seen the trd kits for mr2's, have to check that out. as for the dsm shell, good deal! keep plugging away man |
Loathing very much welcome! hahaha Ya I'm not a big fan of body work either I'm very new to it so its a trial and error bases for me. Body kit on an MR2.......hhhmmmm I dunno personally I don't like body kits and don't think it'd go well with an MR2 period, but hey if that's what you wanna to go for it and don't forget to post some pics!
Well I didnt get the shell ya and probably wont till thaw out cuz we have to much snow now. But a great job opportunity was passed my way so I'm thinking I might take it if the conditions are right. If everything works out in 4 months I'll have to supra restored 100% and 2 450hp+ dsm's up and running, plus have enough to go to school. I'm really pumped! Nice find on the parts 87hilux7mge, you definitely got one hell of a deal............yet again!:bigthumb: All those parts retail at like 2k+. |
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Well i'm finally movie forward on the supra a little bit, I ordered the new rotors and pads all around, just need to figure out why my wiper motor wont work now.......starting to piss me off because its going to be my dd very shorty as I'm parking my new car, and I need it for rainy days as I'm riding my motorcycle on the sunny days.
As she sits now: Attachment 4521 Gotta finish removing the paint on the hood, prime and then repaint yet; so it looks like shit but oh well. Planning on having it read next month as my friend, little brother and I are making the drive to the open track event next month, Hopefully have some vids to post up after. The cars we'll be driving are 2000 bmw 325i (grey), 95 mazda miata (red), and my 84 supra (blue) should be a hell of a time!!:bigthumb: On a side note I got the talon shell its already been stripped cleaned and interior basically all re-installed, just waiting on the engine harness yet then it's time to drop in the engine and tranny. (tranny's actually in front of the supra in the pic) |
new brakes are nice.:bouncy:
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Little update, brakes are all done along with the front wheel bearings and hubs repainted. Most of my focus has been on the talon of late (it is my dream car....). I've narrowed down the wiper problem to the wiper motor for sure now so that will soon be fixed. Sadly though it seems for me that I fix one thing and another thing goes wrong. One of my gaskets blew on the engine, looks to be one of the 2 piece valve cover gaskets which seeps coolant onto the exhaust manifold when the cooling systems pressured up. Got the parts ordered for that now and I'm doing the timing belt at the same time for good measure........so much for beng my dd for the time being.
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let me know if you "really" can't find a wiper motor think i have a few in the warehouse.
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little update
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Ok well of course problems come in three's soooo, as they sit right now I have no wipers, a leaky gasket on the exhaust side of the engine along with a crack exhaust manifold, and I electrical problem. The car doesn't want to stay running unless you rev it, its like its not getting power. I took the alternator off and got it checked out, it was good (better be cuz its brand freak'n new!) and I'm skeptical on the battery being the problem but all I can do is hope that's it.
Also looked into maintenance which I'm surprised I didn't do yet (other then an oil change). Found that my spark plugs we're beyond done, and the crush washers we're sealing anymore so oil gas and carbon had formed a crusty paste in every spark plug port and my plug wires were so old the bottoms had decomposed (forgot to take pic's). So far I Clean all the spark plug holes and replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the distributor cap and check to make sure that part of the system was in good working order; so now all I have left is to replace the spark plug wires. Also looked into my intake system and was blown away..........how my car ran as good as it did I cant fathom! From the filter back was just gritty and slimpy. So I pulled the intake system up to the manifold and started cleaning. Heres what it all looked like: Attachment 4593 Attachment 4594 Then I got an idea.......why not polish the MAF housing to help with air flow and make it look better, so that's what I did. After 10 hours of wet sanding with 400 grit and 800 grit metal sand paper and the polishing here's how she looked. Attachment 4595 Attachment 4596 Attachment 4597 Still not totally happy with it so a revisit will be in order down the road. |
thats some nice work on the throttle body. damn i kinda want to try that out now but i don't have a 5m of my own anymore :(
the manifolds would be a project. how many hours for the TB? |
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So the 7m's have totally different MAF housings? I must look this up..... Also I found that my valve seals might be gone....I came to this conclusion when I cleaned the exes dirt and gas from the intake manifold. It dried and I noticed what appeared to be a lot of carbon build up inside, looked exactly like the exhaust valves on my 4g63 head......sooo if the head gaskets gone (will find out then I pull of the exhaust mani) I guess a head tear down will be in order. :( |
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Quickly started the throttle body tonight...... what a PITA, worked on it for the length of a top gear episode and said screw it Im off to bed!
Attachment 4603 Attachment 4604 once again not at all happy with it and I didnt even start on the outside of the TB cuz there to many small spots I wouldnt be able to spiffy up so itd just look like crap. |
Got everything back together today and went to start the car..........it burst into flames!:eek3:
I would have took pictures if I hadn't been so busy putting it out, have no clue what went wrong never had something like this happen to me before at all! |
going to send out the wiper motor for sure this weekend. been hectic...
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Ya it was a fuel leak, I had a couple injector seals blow out. The fuel problems fixed and my cars up and running but I think I just confirmed my suspicion that I have a cylinder head problem.........piss me off. got to do a leak down and compression test first but I'm sure my head gaskets gone or the heads warped.
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Now, those head gaskets seem to blow every 60k miles. I don't know why. I had to have my block shaved on mine, but that is unusual too.
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Also, I was wondering if.... See I bought big bore pistons, the ones from 1985 (toyota racing) and I was wondering if anyone has any experience with them. I am not going to install them for quite a while, but I was wondering how unreliable would a 5mge engine be with them in it? I have no idea, but have you heard anything?
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if they are 85's i would assume dome topped. you will notice no differnece in reliability, but a small compression difference.
the 5mge is a great engine. hands down. |
CanadianBak'inSupra is the guys to listen to man, I'm still very much new to the supra so I'm not the best guy to ask hahaha.:uh:
But higher compression pistons shouldn't cause the engine to be unreliable, might have more HG failures because of more stress on the HG then what its designed to take which could be solved possibly by torquing it tighter. I went out sliding the supra last night (couldn't help it!:dunno:) and after coming out of my first drift the engine died out...... never had that happen! My gut feelings saying more and more that my HG has failed. White smoke when its rev'd (weird there's none when idling), sluggish rev and I don't get how but there's what has to be coolant seeping out of the exhaust manifold gasket on to the header, yet I've looked all around the bottom of the head and found no leaks, its definitely coolant seeping out of the exhaust gasket because i'm going through coolant. So I'm thinking its most likely failed in two spots on the exhaust side (cylinder 2 and 4), but what I don't get its why it only smokes when rev'd shouldn't it smoke at idle to?. I've topped it up the coolant started it up and watched to see if it started to bubble and nothing.... so I might have to pull the plugs and borrow the inspection camera from work and take a peek to see if there's coolant in the cylinders. |
alum heads on cast iron blocks do weird things.
not 100% sure but at higher rpms the cylinders may be under greater pressure, forcing exhaust gases into your coolant, once it initially happens its going to go the other way and coolant will go into your cylinders. get a compression check like you planned. if you do a tear down, give the cylinder head a fine inspection for cracks, what may look like a casting turd/line could be a fatal crack. then go from there... if it turns out your head is cracked, i do have 3 in my garage... and last i checked lordco can still get rebuilt heads for about 500$ |
My pistons were made by Toyota Racing Development they are 85mm wide and give a 10.5 to 1 compression ratio. Toyota made these pistons to compete, using the 5mge, but that was eons ago. I heard reliability would tank if I installed tham...? I was just wondering how bad and if anyone new anyone else that did that. (my hp would be upgraded to about 240hp)
On mechrider89,s car, I would just replace the head gasket because it doesn't sound like he over heated the engine. It just sounds like the head gasket went. I depends on valve stem seals, last rebuild, maintanace, basically engine health. Only he would know that. The one thing I know toyota did was make the torque specs to were you torqued the head to a certain ft lbs and then turned it so many degrees, rather than using the ft lb mark. (such as: 43lbs and then 3/4 turn) You have to watch over torquing the heads though, because I had a guy that over torqued his head bolts and he stretched the threads. (that's bad) You might want to buy some new head bolts too, but I am pretty confident you just need a new head gasket. I hope you get back up and running soon, these cars are so fun!:bouncy: |
thanx for the support guys, the only thing I'm leery on is the resetting the timing, everything else I'm totally fine with. I was going to do a compression test today but with 110 km/h winds thanx I think I'll pass. I really wish I had a leak down tester but being broke puts a kink in that plan.........a speeding ticket didn't help either. :crazy:
Good thing is I have all the gaskets I need but the bad thing is my exhaust manifolds cracked and the bolts are so rusted I'll probably break them off.......god I cant wait till I can afford that pacesetter manifold. Aluminum reacts with steel, you see it all the time on semi trailer rims. Steel eats the aluminum and causes aluminum to become more brittle which can lead to cracks etc... |
Ya, I heard that aluminum react with steel. something about electrons not matching and causing galvanic corrosion, which is rust I think.
Let us know how it goes though. I can talk you through the timing bit. That is easy. I would set everything at 0, on the compression stroke first, before you start the tear down. It is hard, but it's not a nightmare. I had to replace the pulley on mine. eveything was bad on mine. I spent $1500 on parts this year alone. $700 on parts the year before. Ya, your way ahead of me. Don't worry.:crazy2: |
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LOL don't just REPLACE the head gasket, without proper inspection...
for all we know there could be hair line fractures in the head, or it could be warped without repair... follow the TSRM and you will be good.:http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=EM&P=1 as far as head bolts go strait edge them and inspect your threads. clean the threads in your block to insure proper torque hate to bring it back but compression test will tell all. 14psi max difference between cylinders. as for your pistons. 83mm is stock?? 1982 5mges have 8.8:1 1984 and up get 9.2:1 i ran a quick search on ebay celicasupra.com and a few other sites and came up with nothing on trd pistons, i would say you have some rare shit, considering stock 5mge pistons are discontinued. if your planning on using them i would go for a block and head shave and metal 7mgte head gasket. if toyota did infact make your pistons, there quality and i would not doubt there reliability, but from what i understand stock hg with 9.2:1 pistons was designed for around 180psi, your gona be pushin over 200psi with those pistons, and a aftermarket headgasket would be the solution. |
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ooh ya no worries I was planning on going and getting it hot tanked, and get the surface check, and decked if necessary. Looking at valve guides and springs to because there's no way my valve seals aren't fucked, and the stock valve springs will more then likely fail there spring rate test.
And one way you can check to see if low compression's do to a hg failure or piston rings is to do a leak down test and or a compression test with a cap full of oil dumped into each cylinder. If the compression goes up with the oil its your rings if not the rings are good then. For aluminum I believe there's 3 or for 4 strength stages, I know that semi rims are stage 1. |
wow! thanx for the link bak'in its perfect!
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check the part about cleaning and priming your lash adjusters.
when you drop your oil if there is evidence of lots of coolant you may want to inspect your bearings if that is the case. |
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...ston-Kit/page2
Here is the only place I have seen some one with pistons like mine, but I haven't heard anyone who actually has installed them, so it makes me nervous thinking about installing them. With that high of compression I am not sure if I could use pump gas either. I know headers allow you to run a bit higher compression, the aluminum head helps because aluminum cools quicker, but really I am just guessing. If I went that far I would have to have the block sonic tested to make sure that the cylinder bores can handle it and cryogenically freeze the block to make it stronger. (See the cost is already up there) Then I would have to have the heads flow benched after I ported and polished them, and then get a math guy to help me figure out if the stock cam would would need to be replaced, or if it is ok to use. Custom cams are cheap either. (not to mention getting the crank rebalanced) It would be different if my supra was a tidy one, but it isn't. Toyota used these piston when they first started grand prix or Le Mans or something like that. They are primitive, Toyota technology at it's Genesis. That can't be a good thing. I don't think they are a good idea, so I am looking for someone who has tried this, to spare me the expense. ( Let me know if you heard of anyone doing this, other wise I will likely get curious and throw money at this project, like an idiot, just to find out. Also, if you wanted to check if your rings are bad you can do a wet/dry comparison. Do your compression test then put oil, a few drops, in the chamber. It you get more compression with the oil in the chamber, like a lot more, then your rings are probably bad. You might be able to change the rings with the engine in the car. (I would have but my crank was bad) |
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