Overpressure in radiator system + ABS and Tracs problems + odometer

[Tedor]

Big thanks from sweden to you pwpanas!


It's a Euro Spec so the odometer most likely records Miles. Beacuse it only has 3" exhaust and FMIC I dont think they have ran too high boost.

The thing is that I have not brought the car yet, haven't seen it IRL yet. He is 250 Miles from me. Ofcourse I will do a Compresseion and Coolant system pressure test if he agrees. Both me and my dad are mechanics so if there is work to do there is no problem, parts costs a lot. We acctualy have acces to a pretty special tool when it comes to checking head gaskets. Ofcourse they could have changed the oil and claim there where no coolant in it.

You said the GTE motor dont have problem blowing headgaskets, lets say it's blown could I expect more that the car have 100K than 62K on the odometer and that it has been driven hard or without coolant? If so I will rip the whole motor apart and do a overhaul.

My thought about the ABS is that the car have been crashed and they replaced the hub with one without ABS, unfortunaly the seller says he dont know much about the car at all.

/Fredrik

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Tedor

...You said the GTE motor dont have problem blowing headgaskets, lets say it's blown could I expect more that the car have 100K than 62K on the odometer and that it has been driven hard or without coolant? If so I will rip the whole motor apart and do a overhaul.

My thought about the ABS is that the car have been crashed and they replaced the hub with one without ABS, unfortunaly the seller says he dont know much about the car at all.

/Fredrik

Glad to help, Fredrik.

What you should expect is that...given the FMIC modification...it may have been run on high boost without high octane fuel - this damages the ring lands and chips away at the metal in the cylinder head, which in turn negatively affects compression (and blow-by). If it fails the compression/leakdown tests, you're definitely looking at a new shortblock (to me, don't try to rebuild it - the 2jz-gte tolerances are far too precise to measure with plastigage). Also, don't think about aftermarket (forged) internals to solve any problems - the oem internals are good to 1000hp as long as you run enough octane in the fuel. Insufficient octane however will detonate and destroy any forged internals just as easily as it will destroy the oem internals.

The ABS issue likely does not have to do with an accident. More likely it has to do with poor maintenance. Just check the codes and troubleshoot accordingly.

[Tedor]

Thanks again!

What is the max boost that the stock Euro spec turbos can handle? Trying to figure out boost vs fuel octane. In sweden we have 95 and 98 octane, unfortunaly the car haven't been driven here, only 5 miles if the seller is correct. Not sure what fuel octane England are using.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Tedor

Thanks again!

What is the max boost that the stock Euro spec turbos can handle? Trying to figure out boost vs fuel octane. In sweden we have 95 and 98 octane, unfortunaly the car haven't been driven here, only 5 miles if the seller is correct. Not sure what fuel octane England are using.

No idea. However:
1) Motor octane is MUCH more important than research octane. You have to find out how the octane of your local "98 octane" fuel is measured, and it's *motor* octane number.
2) With a US-spec Mkiv Supra Turbo, the max safe boost with local 93 octane fuel (calculated at ((R+M)/2)) is about 16psi. Anything more than that gradually destroys the engine (not the turbos).
3) With the US-spec Mkiv Supra Turbo, the oem boost level is about 11.5psi. This of course is very safe with the recommended 93 octane 'premium' fuel.
4) The turbos won't die quickly unless you're running in excess of 28psi. HOWEVER at anything over the stock boost levels, their longevity will be impacted. The more you push them past the oem boost levels, the quicker they'll fail.
5) Again, (I can't stress this enough) the engine is what gets damaged FAST with high boost on pump gas - not the turbos. If you're going to run high boost, use race fuel or methanol injection.

[Tedor]

Yes, thanks!

Like you said the hard thing is to know how hard the engine have been pushed, put that's the think with every car. I want to have a good base to start with like a LHD Targa 6 speed TT 1998 which I belive is the best base, of course less miles would be better but that also cost and I will upgrade parts after they break. If the motor is bad I saw Suprastore selling OEM motors with auto trans for 3k shipped. So the motor is cheper than the 6 speed trans, and to convert a auto to manual is going to cost more.

I heard that Canadian cars have KM/h like we have here in sweden, how can I se on a Supra if it is from Canada or US?

Best Regards Fredrik

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Tedor

Yes, thanks!

Like you said the hard thing is to know how hard the engine have been pushed, put that's the think with every car. I want to have a good base to start with like a LHD Targa 6 speed TT 1998 which I belive is the best base, of course less miles would be better but that also cost and I will upgrade parts after they break. If the motor is bad I saw Suprastore selling OEM motors with auto trans for 3k shipped. So the motor is cheper than the 6 speed trans, and to convert a auto to manual is going to cost more.

I heard that Canadian cars have KM/h like we have here in sweden, how can I se on a Supra if it is from Canada or US?

Best Regards Fredrik

You can probably determine this from the VIN# (vehicle identification number). Share this number with Toyota and most likely they can help you track down the original selling point. Here's some more information on VINs:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_vin/index.html
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_vin/supravin.html

[Tedor]

Thanks again! Still waiting for the VIN from him. If a stock supra got 160 000 Miles on it, how bad is that? I dont know how good or bad the car have been serviced or driven...

/Fredrik