Clutch/Transmission problem

[mrgdm007]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Who changed your clutch and machined your flywheel? Toyota?
1) It's extremely difficult to machine the oem dual-mass flywheel. Are you sure this was done, properly?
2) Was the clutch plate installed properly? It's possible to put it in backwards (although the clutch usually won't engage if it's in backwards).
3) At the very least, it sounds like the pedal needs to be adjusted to more completely disengage - do you know how to do this?

Note: I just merged this with the other thread - why did you double-post your question?

1)It was toyota and they probably didnt because it was a smaller toyota dealership, so their knowledge was probably limited
2)The clutch engages the but it does seem kind of unnecessarily hard to put each gear into place, not like forcing it in, but like I cant just put it in, I do have to apply a little bit of pressure
3)I dont if its something I could do with basic tool, and not getting under the car then if you could tell me how, other wise I am going to take it to a shop in Tulsa, Oklahoma that have experience with imports and, have been highly recommended from mr2 turbo guys and a few supra guys as well as hondas and other toyota owners, but to start the car, the clutch has to be pressed all the way to the floor, if it is not touching the ground (as far down as it will go) then the car will not start

Originally Posted by pwpanas

1) A lighter flywheel is not a "typical bpu upgrade". BPU upgrades consist of a boost gauge, a fuel cut elimination device (eg BCC), a downpipe, and a boost-raising modification (eg. 'clamp mod' or ebc).
2) Chatter is not caused by an aftermarket flywheel, although transmission 'rattle' while idling is. Eliminating the oem dual-mass flywheel passes all minor rpm changes directly to the transmission, which causes the noise. It's not loud at all, but it is noticeable (especially while running your a/c). Chatter is typically caused by an aggressive carbon clutch disc with a non-carbon (i.e. steel) flywheel and pressure plate.
3) You won't need a twin disc flywheel until you upgrade to a single turbo. The clutch you need depends on the max horsepower (i.e. torque) you need it to handle. For BPU, a single disc clutch is more than sufficient. Tell us the max rwhp you will need this clutch to handle, and we can provide a recommendation.

1) my bad
2) I heard something where you can have your engine set to idle at a little bit higher rpm, like 1000-1200, have you heard of this?
3)max the car will every have is 650wrhp, that wont be for a few years tho, Im just looking to do bpu, and keep the tt set up until I am out of college, so 400rwhp as of know, what do you recommend flywheel wise and clutch wise

Thank you for your help ahead of time