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Old 06-11-2007, 05:37 PM   #11
Drag0na5h
3" Exhaust
 
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When I had to adjust my TPS a short while back I found that using a hacksaw blade was a good thickness to put between the throttle and stopper. Then using the Ohm meter setting the TPS to any reading that wasn't 0 or 1. NOTE: It was hard for me to get it to the specs according to my Toyota OEM repair manual. But the car drives better now. Maybe do that simple test to see if your TPS is causing the fuel cut. I was ready to buy a new TPS too...but I'm sure like mine yours is still okay. I'm running on 250,000+ miles.
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Old 06-11-2007, 09:01 PM   #12
marc
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it idles fine, at liek a little more than 700rpm..i dont notice any exxesive gasses out of the exhaust..can any1 take a picture of their tps so i can see where theirs is set at? im tryin this whole ohm meter thing tommorow again but i can never get it to spec. and also on one of the fuel lines there seems to be gasoline comming out, but only a microscopic amount, just enought to get the surface of the fuel rail a tinnnnny bit wet, but i dont think thats the cause, its from a bad brass washer on the bottom of it. but idk a pic of sum1 tps wuld help please
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short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
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Old 06-11-2007, 10:29 PM   #13
marc
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ok honstly fuck this car....ive tried to set the tps in every spot, and it just doesnt work...still has the same damn problem with fuel cut around 2k rpm....im readin the tsrm and no matter where i put it the numbers on the ohm meter never change when i move the tps, they always stay at like 6.09k ohm i really feel like blowing this P.O.S. up
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nothing but the best
-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 06-11-2007, 11:01 PM   #14
f00g00
12psi boost
 
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VC to E2 should be the same no matter what you do to it.
VTA to E2 is the one that steadily climbs in resistance as you increase the TPS to wide open throttle.
IDL to E2 should read an open circuit as you just open the throttle from closed fully closed.

If you look at the picture in the TSRM you should be using the second one down. The TPS is mounted 180 degrees out between the NA and the Turbo so the terminals will be reversed. If your reading it mounted on the throttle body and reading the terminals like its an NA then your readings will be off.

Also make sure you aren't touching more than one terminal with one lead.
Using alligator clips helps in this case.

For the proper adjustment with a feeler guage use the measurements in the TSRM when its mounted to the throttle body.

Im looking at page FI-100 and FI-101
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Old 06-11-2007, 11:17 PM   #15
IHateHacks
20psi boost
 
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Thats what mine looks like, its never been removed from my throttle body before. You see that yellow paint mark? That's from the factory.

What terminals are you using when you adjust the sensor?
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Old 06-12-2007, 04:48 PM   #16
marc
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idk then, im beggining to think its not my tps, bt im gettin the code 41 so idk. im just ganna take it to my auto shop at school and have my auto teacher do it
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nothing but the best
-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 06-12-2007, 06:06 PM   #17
marc
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ok well, i had a brilliant idea, i disconnected the tps, like took the connector off of it...it idles at 2k rpm but it drives perfect...so it has got to be the tps..im just ganna take it to my auto class and have him set it and it shuld be fine
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nothing but the best
-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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