Bhg vs worn rings vs valve guides

[Kuban]

Ran it today. Under these conditions. 1) I took everything off the top of the engine. (midpipe removed, valve covers removed, no.3 cover removed, all spark plugs removed, cold engine, dry comp test, throttle not held in at all).

Number went as followed.

#1 - 50
#2 - 100
#3 - 70
#4 - 120
#5 - 175
#6 - 32

So uhhh yea. interesting. Ill repost later with more details and comments.

[mrnickleye]

Those #'s tell us that it's time to rebuild the entire motor, or swap it out for a JDM motor (cheaper, but not as good as a real good rebuild).

And let this fellow's experience be a lesson to everyone else.

Read before buying:
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ead.php?t=3296

[Kuban]

Originally Posted by mrnickleye

Those #'s tell us that it's time to rebuild the entire motor, or swap it out for a JDM motor (cheaper, but not as good as a real good rebuild).

And let this fellow's experience be a lesson to everyone else.

Read before buying:
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ead.php?t=3296

^ *Engine that is. Did u notice i only have 30k miles on this engine? Not just rebuilt, like someone on this forum previously stated remanufactured by jasper.
That been said. Since if this were a bhg issue i would be having cooling system issues. And im not. In any way shape or form. Then this is def rings/valve related. Also, with number like this shouldnt the car ooooo i dont know NOT RUN? Well this isnt the case. It runs fine. On cold start it takes about 2 seconds of cranking to get started, but after it warms up it idles and runs basically normal. Kinda has me wondering if maybe the valves are gummed up to the point where im losing compression in those other cylenders. I think i might try and throw the engine back together and run like an entire bottle of carb cleaner into the intake while the engine is running. See if that clears things up a bit. Also if it were my rings, id immagine the number would be a little more consistant. Here i have 2 cylenders dangerously low, 2 well below par, one a little below normal, and one perfectly normal if not really good. If there was ring falure its unlikely to happen in 4 cylenders. If there was excesive ring wear then the numbers would be more consitant. BUT if i were to say have stuck valves from carbon build up. Any numbers are game.

Either way. Im not rebuilding a damn thing! Do we know why? Oh yea. Its still under warrenty! Ill let jasper deal with it from here. Unless anyone else thinks the valves sticking sounds like a possiblilty. I also have pics of the top of the head and spark plugs that ill post up tomorrow morning.

[mrnickleye]

OK....to tell how the valves are, run a comp test on each cyl 3x. Watch the FIRST JUMP of the needle each time, then the last reading. Write it all down.

If the FIRST JUMPS are low, then it comes on up to, say, 110psi, then the valve is bad. If it is low, and it only maxes at, say, 60psi, then the valve it REALLY burnt, or sticking open some.

After doing all this, do it all over again, but (using an oilsquirt can) squirt some oil (about 1 ounce) into each cyl before testing it.

If the final #s come up alot, then the rings are shot.

[Kuban]

Originally Posted by mrnickleye

OK....to tell how the valves are, run a comp test on each cyl 3x. Watch the FIRST JUMP of the needle each time, then the last reading. Write it all down.

If the FIRST JUMPS are low, then it comes on up to, say, 110psi, then the valve is bad. If it is low, and it only maxes at, say, 60psi, then the valve it REALLY burnt, or sticking open some.

After doing all this, do it all over again, but (using an oilsquirt can) squirt some oil (about 1 ounce) into each cyl before testing it.

If the final #s come up alot, then the rings are shot.

okay thanks ill try that in a few hours when i get off work. damn third shift

[supramacist]

Does he have to rebuild the head or just replace the rings..?

[mrnickleye]

Originally Posted by supramacist

Does he have to rebuild the head or just replace the rings..?

Do it right. Do it all. Or pay for it later, by doing it all over again.

[Kuban]

This is what jasper lists that comes with the remanufacture. This was done again like i said 30k miles ago.


"GRAPHITE COATED PISTONS:Graphite is a natural lubricant which helps
prevent dry start up and piston scuffing.
MOLY PISTON RINGS:Higher durability, reduce cyl. wall wear.
GRAPHITE HEAD GASKETSliable material that does not tear when casting
expand and contract. Graphite gaskets transfer heat evenly and will
not deteriorate around water passages like Kevlar gaskets do.
VITON VALVE STEM SEALS:This material meters oil from the first running
of engine. Its design is extremely resisant to heat, oil additives and
abrasions. OEM PARTS INSTALLED
OEM REAR MAIN SEALS: Are made of Teflon material which will resist
heat and oil additives w/o damage.
"

[supramacist]

It was I going on about the jasper engine because I thought of buying one for my na. But I don't know anyone that has one till now. And it seems he's not really thrilled. So I'll probably rebuild and then rebuild again.