codes 22 24 31

kidthunder650 · 03-29-2007, 12:35 AM

i thought oil was blue smoke. this is black smoke. the person before me took alot of things off the car. no emmisions no ps or ac crusise, ect.
what should i be checking on the turbo, i am new to turbo cars, first one.

IHateHacks · 03-29-2007, 01:21 AM

Hey I build turbo cars too and black smoke=fuel, too much of it I might add. Blue smoke=oil. White smoke=coolant/water.

Kidthunder if I were you, I'd get the ignition timing sorted out first. It is not hard if you know what you are doing. I can post a detailed procedure on how to find TDC and correctly install a CPS, but everytime I give out this info people don't care to use it or don't understand engine dynamics so they just ignore me. Let me know if you wanna correctly set your ignition timing yourself.

IHateHacks · 03-29-2007, 02:10 AM

Unless you are blowing clouds of blue smoke under load or WOT, your turbo is fine.

The only thing you can check with the turbo bolted to the engine is axial shaft play. You can check radial shaft play also, but ANY axial shaft play is very bad.

Axial=in and out

Radial= side to side

JunkerMK3gte · 04-01-2007, 03:38 PM

i was in a hurry to get to the shop. it sounded like it was lamens described. sry about that. on your t/b there is the tps. theres a yellow paint mark from the factory(index mark) the screw and mark should line up. the cam sensor should be about a third of the way up from the bottom of the adjustment slot and last pull off the vacum hose from the pressure regulator, put another on long enough for you to suck on. start the car and suck on it. if you taste gas its bad if the idle changes(listen closely) its good. if not its bad. check that stuff and get back

Reeves · 04-02-2007, 03:26 AM

I have some radial shaft play on my turbo. I believe the oil seals are blown because i get a good amount of blue smoke. It only smokes after I push it then put the clutch in and let it idle, blue smoke will pour out for a bit. There is a lot of oil in the intercooler pipes so im thinking it's pushing oil through into the engine. also no smoke on startup..

What do you guys think?

JunkerMK3gte · 04-04-2007, 12:35 AM

yes, it is the seals/bearings. pull it now and replace/rebuild it before you fry the turbo all together. Garrett turbos has the best of anything you need to do. it costs a bit more, but you wont have to worry about it again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reeves

I have some radial shaft play on my turbo. I believe the oil seals are blown because i get a good amount of blue smoke. It only smokes after I push it then put the clutch in and let it idle, blue smoke will pour out for a bit. There is a lot of oil in the intercooler pipes so im thinking it's pushing oil through into the engine. also no smoke on startup..

What do you guys think?

Reeves · 04-06-2007, 05:46 AM

Im just gonna go ahead and get a whole new turbo from turbonetics.. I think all I need is new manifold, injectors, fuel pump, AFM, and all the electronics that go with it. Plus a good tune.. Right?

Already have a metal headgasket with ARP headstuds and full 3" exhaust.. I also want to get new hardpipes and a blow off valve.. All this money though.. Don't know where Im gonna get it.

If you guys have any advice, throw it my way im. Im always open to suggestions and have found that in fact, I do not know everything =D.

supramacist · 04-12-2007, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Hey I build turbo cars too and black smoke=fuel, too much of it I might add. Blue smoke=oil. White smoke=coolant/water.

Kidthunder if I were you, I'd get the ignition timing sorted out first. It is not hard if you know what you are doing. I can post a detailed procedure on how to find TDC and correctly install a CPS, but everytime I give out this info people don't care to use it or don't understand engine dynamics so they just ignore me. Let me know if you wanna correctly set your ignition timing yourself.

I am interested in this information. If you would be so kind.

IHateHacks · 04-12-2007, 03:36 PM

Ok you asked for it.

The crank pulley is keyed to the crank on the 7M with a woodruff key, so whenever the notch on the crank pulley is lined up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover, the No.1 piston is at TDC. NOW, there are 2 TDC's on a 4 stroke engine, one on the exhaust stroke and one on the compression stroke. The TDC you need to install the CPS correctly is the one on the compression stroke. That is also the TDC when the cam gear matchmarks line up with the notches on the inner timing belt cover. If you have the upper timing belt cover off and spin the crank by hand, you will see that for every 2 times the crank revolves, the cams revolve once. So you hit the 0 degree mark once and the cam gear marks line up, then you spin the crank again and hit the 0 degree mark and NOW the cam gear marks are 180 degrees to the notches on the inner timing belt cover. So what I am trying to explain is, you can't just line the crank up to the 0 on the cover and think you are at the correct TDC. Like I said there are 2 TDC's on every single 4 stroke engine whether its SOHC, DOHC or OHV. SO, the only way to know what is the correct TDC on a supra is, 1. take the upper timing belt cover off and line the crank to the 0 when the cams line up with the notches. Or 2. take the no.1 spark plug out, spin the crank by hand and listen for when air rushes out of the spark plug hole when the crank nears the 0 degree mark. When it rushes out, the valves are closed and the no.1 piston is on TDC of its compression stroke. If air does not rush out then the exhaust valves are open and its on the exhaust stroke.

Obviously the method with taking the upper timing cover off is easier but you have to take the thermostat housing off and then you need to buy coolant. Either way will work and then you can properly install the CPS by lineing up the drilled mark on the shaft with the groove on the CPS housing and you are done.

supramacist · 04-12-2007, 04:48 PM

Alright this makes sense and is basically what I have done. I followed the tsrm and I have 1 and 6 on the top. I guess I was hoping for more of an explanation on the distributor rotor. I marked mine on the dist and the head before I removed it. But I am sure my mark will no longer be on the head. How do I know if it is lined up sinse I am sure my marks will be gone due to the machine shop?

FYI..., I tried to send you a pm but your box is full to capacity. lol.

EDIT: my power steering pump also has a woodruff key. I had to shave it down with a file to make it fit.

04-01-2007, 03:38 PM	#4
JunkerMK3gte Stock Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Akron, Ohio Posts: 22	sry i was in a hurry to get to the shop. it sounded like it was lamens described. sry about that. on your t/b there is the tps. theres a yellow paint mark from the factory(index mark) the screw and mark should line up. the cam sensor should be about a third of the way up from the bottom of the adjustment slot and last pull off the vacum hose from the pressure regulator, put another on long enough for you to suck on. start the car and suck on it. if you taste gas its bad if the idle changes(listen closely) its good. if not its bad. check that stuff and get back

04-12-2007, 03:36 PM	#9
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Ok you asked for it. The crank pulley is keyed to the crank on the 7M with a woodruff key, so whenever the notch on the crank pulley is lined up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover, the No.1 piston is at TDC. NOW, there are 2 TDC's on a 4 stroke engine, one on the exhaust stroke and one on the compression stroke. The TDC you need to install the CPS correctly is the one on the compression stroke. That is also the TDC when the cam gear matchmarks line up with the notches on the inner timing belt cover. If you have the upper timing belt cover off and spin the crank by hand, you will see that for every 2 times the crank revolves, the cams revolve once. So you hit the 0 degree mark once and the cam gear marks line up, then you spin the crank again and hit the 0 degree mark and NOW the cam gear marks are 180 degrees to the notches on the inner timing belt cover. So what I am trying to explain is, you can't just line the crank up to the 0 on the cover and think you are at the correct TDC. Like I said there are 2 TDC's on every single 4 stroke engine whether its SOHC, DOHC or OHV. SO, the only way to know what is the correct TDC on a supra is, 1. take the upper timing belt cover off and line the crank to the 0 when the cams line up with the notches. Or 2. take the no.1 spark plug out, spin the crank by hand and listen for when air rushes out of the spark plug hole when the crank nears the 0 degree mark. When it rushes out, the valves are closed and the no.1 piston is on TDC of its compression stroke. If air does not rush out then the exhaust valves are open and its on the exhaust stroke. Obviously the method with taking the upper timing cover off is easier but you have to take the thermostat housing off and then you need to buy coolant. Either way will work and then you can properly install the CPS by lineing up the drilled mark on the shaft with the groove on the CPS housing and you are done. Last edited by IHateHacks; 04-12-2007 at 05:37 PM.

04-12-2007, 04:48 PM	#10
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Alright this makes sense and is basically what I have done. I followed the tsrm and I have 1 and 6 on the top. I guess I was hoping for more of an explanation on the distributor rotor. I marked mine on the dist and the head before I removed it. But I am sure my mark will no longer be on the head. How do I know if it is lined up sinse I am sure my marks will be gone due to the machine shop? FYI..., I tried to send you a pm but your box is full to capacity. lol. EDIT: my power steering pump also has a woodruff key. I had to shave it down with a file to make it fit. Last edited by supramacist; 04-12-2007 at 04:51 PM.

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03-29-2007, 12:35 AM	#1
kidthunder650 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: warwick ri Posts: 52	i thought oil was blue smoke. this is black smoke. the person before me took alot of things off the car. no emmisions no ps or ac crusise, ect. what should i be checking on the turbo, i am new to turbo cars, first one.

03-29-2007, 01:21 AM	#2
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Hey I build turbo cars too and black smoke=fuel, too much of it I might add. Blue smoke=oil. White smoke=coolant/water. Kidthunder if I were you, I'd get the ignition timing sorted out first. It is not hard if you know what you are doing. I can post a detailed procedure on how to find TDC and correctly install a CPS, but everytime I give out this info people don't care to use it or don't understand engine dynamics so they just ignore me. Let me know if you wanna correctly set your ignition timing yourself.

03-29-2007, 02:10 AM	#3
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Unless you are blowing clouds of blue smoke under load or WOT, your turbo is fine. The only thing you can check with the turbo bolted to the engine is axial shaft play. You can check radial shaft play also, but ANY axial shaft play is very bad. Axial=in and out Radial= side to side

04-02-2007, 03:26 AM	#5
Reeves 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 98	I have some radial shaft play on my turbo. I believe the oil seals are blown because i get a good amount of blue smoke. It only smokes after I push it then put the clutch in and let it idle, blue smoke will pour out for a bit. There is a lot of oil in the intercooler pipes so im thinking it's pushing oil through into the engine. also no smoke on startup.. What do you guys think?

04-06-2007, 05:46 AM	#7
Reeves 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 98	Im just gonna go ahead and get a whole new turbo from turbonetics.. I think all I need is new manifold, injectors, fuel pump, AFM, and all the electronics that go with it. Plus a good tune.. Right? Already have a metal headgasket with ARP headstuds and full 3" exhaust.. I also want to get new hardpipes and a blow off valve.. All this money though.. Don't know where Im gonna get it. If you guys have any advice, throw it my way im. Im always open to suggestions and have found that in fact, I do not know everything =D.