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#1 |
20psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Haven/Hamden
Posts: 793
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The ARP studs have an allen head hole in the top of them and the stud kit will come with the correct size allen wrench. You use that to install them. But do NOT torque the studs. The studs only go in hand tight and you torque the nuts to 70ft/lbs or higher.
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#2 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: salem mass
Posts: 329
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ok, thank you very much.
if i opt. not to do a metal head gasket, how much boost do u think an original headgasket..graphite maybe, will hold. or how much hp will be safe to run it thru with the use of head studs?
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#3 |
20psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Haven/Hamden
Posts: 793
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A stock head gasket (new) with ARP bolts, has been proven to withstand 14psi all day.
Head studs are meant for full race applications. It's more about the quality of the head gasket install (head and block machine work, etc.) than what hardware you use. ARP head studs are the best in the world, there's nothing better. |
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#4 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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alright dude. I found this out the scenic way.
Your arp washers have to be installed after setting the head onto the HG. Because if you set it on the studs and try to install them....., there is no clearance for washers. So even after dropping the head you still have to remove what studs you have installed to place the washers. You don't need any studs in the block. The placement pins will catch the head and line it up. So..., then you install the washers. Now you won't have room to place the nuts on the studs so you thread them and then drop them through the washers. Then hand tighten them with your allen wrench. My studs didn't come with the allen wrench but I have plenty so no big deal. After you have the studs "finger" tight. Use your deep welled 14mm socket and an extention and tighten the nuts to finger tight. No wratchet. Do it by hand. Now you are ready for the torque wrench. Follow the bolt pattern in your tsrm. Everyone says to do it in 3 stages of torquing. I did mine in 5 stages and went to 85lbs. ARP says to go to 80 lbs. Whatever you do..., DO NOT FORGET TO USE THE MOLLY. On the tops and bottom of the studs. A little bit of molly goes a long way. You will find that the #10 stud is tight even after rotating the cam to the flat spot. If your socket hangs up...., remove the wratchet and wiggle the socket with the extention attached, and they will come loose. I just did mine over the weekend. This is the easiest way IMO. Take your time. Don't rush the torquing process. I also kept my allen wrench and moved it one spot behind me as I moved forward. Because if you have to leave it for some reason or look up for too long. You'll be lost. Don't stop torquing half way through a cycle. After all 14 are tight..., take a break. Give them a few minutes to acclimate, smoke a joint or wack off, whatever floats your boat and then go back and repeat the process. Kidding about the joint and slapping the ham there. lol. These are just opinions and there is a reason they are free. |
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#5 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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I also have a top line head gasket that is brand new that I didn't use. Its' thickness is 0.76
If you would like it..., make me an offer, and you cover shipping. |
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#6 |
20psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Haven/Hamden
Posts: 793
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Very well put supramacist!
Even with ARP bolts, the cams have to be just right to fit the socket in there. *Sniff* *Sniff* I smell weed.....LOL Funny shit man. Ok back on topic....... |
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#7 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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Man, you can do as you like..., but I went and bought a fat tube of crc brand molly. It was right at 4 bucks. Lube everything as you put it together.
Cuz if your rides like mine..., I'll be working on it again. Oh..., and Thanks Double H. I do what I can when I can do it. Last edited by supramacist; 05-03-2007 at 01:58 AM. |
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