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Old 04-12-2007, 09:36 PM   #21
marc
12psi boost
 
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yea i understand man it was just a thought tho lol. not nessecrily what i was ganan do. i was plannin on doin it by hand. and it is wat im ganan do. lol and im not doin this lal by myself ive got my dad if i need him, thats only if i need him. ive planned everythign up to here, and have doen all the work myself up tho this point. soo we will see in a feew weeks whats ganan happen. i can have the head machined and shit for free so that end is no problem
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Old 05-02-2007, 12:59 AM   #22
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ok guys just got the head off and hg pulled, ganna do sum more tommorow to the block.

shuld i go studs, or bolts....the engine is stayin in the car, so if it is incredibly hard to do studs w the engine in the car ill just go w bolts...but i need other opinions.
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nothing but the best
-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 05-02-2007, 01:26 AM   #23
IHateHacks
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If you use studs, the last 4 (2 on each side) closest to the firewall have to be installed after the head is on. No big deal.

Unless you are planning on running more than 14psi with a bigger turbo, ARP bolts will be fine.
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Old 05-02-2007, 01:52 AM   #24
marc
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it wont be hard to do studs when the head is on tho?
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nothing but the best
-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:26 AM   #25
marc
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k, ordered the studs last night, and while i was at it a 3 inch aftermarket turbo elbow to mate with my 3inch megan dp . im planning on shimming the waste gat atleast 4 washers while im doin all this, the supra shuld be bosting a decent amount of power after i finish my hg swap...i cannnot Fckin wait
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nothing but the best
-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 05-02-2007, 12:10 PM   #26
IHateHacks
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The ARP studs have an allen head hole in the top of them and the stud kit will come with the correct size allen wrench. You use that to install them. But do NOT torque the studs. The studs only go in hand tight and you torque the nuts to 70ft/lbs or higher.
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:21 PM   #27
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ok, thank you very much.

if i opt. not to do a metal head gasket, how much boost do u think an original headgasket..graphite maybe, will hold. or how much hp will be safe to run it thru with the use of head studs?
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nothing but the best
-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:24 PM   #28
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A stock head gasket (new) with ARP bolts, has been proven to withstand 14psi all day.

Head studs are meant for full race applications. It's more about the quality of the head gasket install (head and block machine work, etc.) than what hardware you use. ARP head studs are the best in the world, there's nothing better.
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Old 05-02-2007, 08:59 PM   #29
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alright dude. I found this out the scenic way.
Your arp washers have to be installed after setting the head onto the HG.
Because if you set it on the studs and try to install them....., there is no clearance for washers.

So even after dropping the head you still have to remove what studs you have installed to place the washers.

You don't need any studs in the block. The placement pins will catch the head and line it up.

So..., then you install the washers. Now you won't have room to place the nuts on the studs so you thread them and then drop them through the washers. Then hand tighten them with your allen wrench. My studs didn't come with the allen wrench but I have plenty so no big deal.

After you have the studs "finger" tight. Use your deep welled 14mm socket and an extention and tighten the nuts to finger tight. No wratchet. Do it by hand.

Now you are ready for the torque wrench. Follow the bolt pattern in your tsrm. Everyone says to do it in 3 stages of torquing. I did mine in 5 stages and went to 85lbs. ARP says to go to 80 lbs.

Whatever you do..., DO NOT FORGET TO USE THE MOLLY. On the tops and bottom of the studs. A little bit of molly goes a long way.

You will find that the #10 stud is tight even after rotating the cam to the flat spot. If your socket hangs up...., remove the wratchet and wiggle the socket with the extention attached, and they will come loose.

I just did mine over the weekend. This is the easiest way IMO. Take your time. Don't rush the torquing process. I also kept my allen wrench and moved it one spot behind me as I moved forward. Because if you have to leave it for some reason or look up for too long. You'll be lost.

Don't stop torquing half way through a cycle. After all 14 are tight..., take a break. Give them a few minutes to acclimate, smoke a joint or wack off, whatever floats your boat and then go back and repeat the process.

Kidding about the joint and slapping the ham there. lol.

These are just opinions and there is a reason they are free.
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Old 05-02-2007, 09:01 PM   #30
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I also have a top line head gasket that is brand new that I didn't use. Its' thickness is 0.76

If you would like it..., make me an offer, and you cover shipping.
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