purcashing 1987 toyota supra soon, YAY! HG questions inside.

[Murd]

You don't need a metal head gasket if you're going to be running stock boost or slightly over stock. Just make sure it's torqued to 70-80ft/lbs. If you're not getting the block lapped you're probably better off NOT getting a metal head gasket as well... Both surfaces need to be extremely smooth to use a metal one. Get a stock head gasket kit from toyota, it should have all the parts you need in it, grommets and all. I'd suggest still taking the head to a machine shop however.

[SideWinderGX]

Originally Posted by Murd

You don't need a metal head gasket if you're going to be running stock boost or slightly over stock. Just make sure it's torqued to 70-80ft/lbs. If you're not getting the block lapped you're probably better off NOT getting a metal head gasket as well... Both surfaces need to be extremely smooth to use a metal one. Get a stock head gasket kit from toyota, it should have all the parts you need in it, grommets and all. I'd suggest still taking the head to a machine shop however.

what id love to do with the car is leave the turbo as it is, then slowly phase in some other parts....which i havent decided yet :-P or maybe i wont, ill just have fun with it and see how long i can keep her alive. either way, she isnt going above 300 HP unless i hit the lotto.

i just wanna fix this problem so i wont have to worry when im driving the supra...much like im worrying now haha. and if i get that stock head gasket kit from Toyota, that wont include ARP studs\bolts, correct?

whats the difference between studs and bolts, anyways?

thanks for all the info

[IHateHacks]

ARP head bolts vs. studs

On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, its probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car. For most applications, however, studs are recommended. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine, with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment. Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Heres why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being twisted while its being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a relaxed modenever crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. The stud should be installed finger tight then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis.

Studs are much more difficult to install with the engine in the car, but are stronger and less prone to stretching. Head Bolts will be easier to install with the engine in the car, but are not reccomended for high-boost applications. On the 7MGTE engine, the most common source of headgasket failure is due to the factory head bolts stretching and failing, therefore, when replacing a headgasket, ARP hardware is a must.

[SideWinderGX]

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

ARP head bolts vs. studs

On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, its probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car. For most applications, however, studs are recommended. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine, with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment. Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Heres why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being twisted while its being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a relaxed modenever crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. The stud should be installed finger tight then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis.

Studs are much more difficult to install with the engine in the car, but are stronger and less prone to stretching. Head Bolts will be easier to install with the engine in the car, but are not reccomended for high-boost applications. On the 7MGTE engine, the most common source of headgasket failure is due to the factory head bolts stretching and failing, therefore, when replacing a headgasket, ARP hardware is a must.

clear as crystal, thank you. now i just gotta worry about what is in the car already, and how much it would possibly cost to fix. i presume fixing it beforehand would be much cheaper than fixing an already blown headgasket

[Murd]

Originally Posted by SideWinderGX

what id love to do with the car is leave the turbo as it is, then slowly phase in some other parts....which i havent decided yet :-P or maybe i wont, ill just have fun with it and see how long i can keep her alive. either way, she isnt going above 300 HP unless i hit the lotto.

i just wanna fix this problem so i wont have to worry when im driving the supra...much like im worrying now haha. and if i get that stock head gasket kit from Toyota, that wont include ARP studs\bolts, correct?

whats the difference between studs and bolts, anyways?

thanks for all the info

Yes you'll have to replace the head bolts. As IHateHacks posted, ARP is the way to go when replacing them, wether you do head bolts again, or go with head studs. Head studs is the prefered item to put on your car for the stated reasons in his post.

If you DO decide to replace the head gasket after purchase, make sure you burp the coolant system properly after refilling. The "waterfall" sound will annoy the hell out of you if you don't. Look in the FAQ section here, there's a good write up on it, as well as how to reduce the problem in the future by modifying the thermostat.