Rebuilding 87 7m-gte

Reeves · 04-22-2006, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benesesso

AFTER they are tested for cracks.

Is this standard procedure for a rebuild/headgasket replacement or do I need to tell them to do this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benesesso

I'd use a metal HG in that case.

What thickness and brand headgasket though? Im sure it all depends.. but what does it depend on?

Whats the purpose of the different thickness'?

Reeves · 04-22-2006, 05:17 AM

What type of headgasket would be best? Bead, stopper, or grommet? Im thinking bead?

This is basically what I plan on telling the mechanic: I want to get the engine rebuilt, I want this here HG with these here ARP studs installed, test the head and block for cracks and THEN get some nice flat surfaces on the head and block. After it's done ill come in 2 weeks later and have them retorque (or whatever it is they do) the studs.. Am I missing anything?

Also, am i going to need to tell them the torq specs? (did I say that right?)

Supragirl available for comment?

Thanks for the quick responses so far!! I wouldnt know much about supras, or any car, if it wasnt for this forum!! =D.

rnoswal · 04-22-2006, 07:05 PM

Studs, 82 ft lbs.

Russ

ddmcse · 04-22-2006, 08:31 PM

I went with the stopper 2mm
been that way for 3 years
not cheap
the diff thickness is to compensate for how much you shaved off the block and head .(basically)

i have a few pictures on my website here is a shot of the gasket in question
http://www.ddmcse.com/turbo/images/mhg.JPG

Reeves · 04-25-2006, 01:10 AM

The stopper HG is a good $100 more than the bead HG at least.. Why would I choose the stopper over the bead? Im leaning towards the bead simply because of the price.

Will I be okay just buying a 2.0mm HG or should I wait and see how much needs to be shaved off the head and block? My mechanic is the one dealing with the machine shop, thats why I ask.

~$4000 sound about right for labor and parts on a rebuild?

04-22-2006, 08:31 PM	#4
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	I went with the stopper 2mm been that way for 3 years not cheap the diff thickness is to compensate for how much you shaved off the block and head .(basically) i have a few pictures on my website here is a shot of the gasket in question http://www.ddmcse.com/turbo/images/mhg.JPG __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS Last edited by ddmcse; 04-22-2006 at 08:35 PM.

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04-22-2006, 05:17 AM	#2
Reeves 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 98	What type of headgasket would be best? Bead, stopper, or grommet? Im thinking bead? This is basically what I plan on telling the mechanic: I want to get the engine rebuilt, I want this here HG with these here ARP studs installed, test the head and block for cracks and THEN get some nice flat surfaces on the head and block. After it's done ill come in 2 weeks later and have them retorque (or whatever it is they do) the studs.. Am I missing anything? Also, am i going to need to tell them the torq specs? (did I say that right?) Supragirl available for comment? Thanks for the quick responses so far!! I wouldnt know much about supras, or any car, if it wasnt for this forum!! =D.

04-22-2006, 07:05 PM	#3
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	Studs, 82 ft lbs. Russ

04-25-2006, 01:10 AM	#5
Reeves 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 98	The stopper HG is a good $100 more than the bead HG at least.. Why would I choose the stopper over the bead? Im leaning towards the bead simply because of the price. Will I be okay just buying a 2.0mm HG or should I wait and see how much needs to be shaved off the head and block? My mechanic is the one dealing with the machine shop, thats why I ask. ~$4000 sound about right for labor and parts on a rebuild?