Blown head gasket ?!?!:(:(:(

rnoswal · 02-21-2006, 04:52 AM

Seems like the biggest costs are the gaskets. Like the previous post said, you can save a BUNCH of money if you can do the job yourself. The only problems you can run into are a head that has eaten out water ports and needs valve work. If you do get the valves turned and get the guides checked and new valve stem seals installed, then you have to readjust the valve clearances. You will need a bunch of shims for that job.

Another problem is if the block needs resurfacing, then it has to come out. If you do that, then you maight as well check the bearings, cylinder wear and replace the seals.

I jsut replaced the head gasket on my 87 N/A. It cost me 72.00 for the head gasket and another 35.00 to get the head lightly milled. I also bought a set of ARP head studs for 115.00, almost a must for longevity.

Pulling the head is pretty straight forward though. Undo the battery, drain the water from the engine, use the side drain on the block. Have a different place to store your nuts and bolts for each particular area. Like each part of the intake system, the exhaust system. VAlve covers, mark your distributor so you can put it back in the same place with the engine at TDC. You have to have a metric allen socket to take the head bolts out.

You might want to take pictures of the wiring before you unplug stuff and under the intake, the wiring can be pretty involved. All the plugins are either color coded or will only go one way, but there are a lot of plugs and some of the plactic releases will break due to getting brittle with age.

If any of this seems to intimidating, then get someone to help you who is familiar with fuel injected engines or let a shop do it, but that way will cost a lot!

Let us know how it goes and what you decide.

Russ

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02-21-2006, 04:52 AM	#3
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	Seems like the biggest costs are the gaskets. Like the previous post said, you can save a BUNCH of money if you can do the job yourself. The only problems you can run into are a head that has eaten out water ports and needs valve work. If you do get the valves turned and get the guides checked and new valve stem seals installed, then you have to readjust the valve clearances. You will need a bunch of shims for that job. Another problem is if the block needs resurfacing, then it has to come out. If you do that, then you maight as well check the bearings, cylinder wear and replace the seals. I jsut replaced the head gasket on my 87 N/A. It cost me 72.00 for the head gasket and another 35.00 to get the head lightly milled. I also bought a set of ARP head studs for 115.00, almost a must for longevity. Pulling the head is pretty straight forward though. Undo the battery, drain the water from the engine, use the side drain on the block. Have a different place to store your nuts and bolts for each particular area. Like each part of the intake system, the exhaust system. VAlve covers, mark your distributor so you can put it back in the same place with the engine at TDC. You have to have a metric allen socket to take the head bolts out. You might want to take pictures of the wiring before you unplug stuff and under the intake, the wiring can be pretty involved. All the plugins are either color coded or will only go one way, but there are a lot of plugs and some of the plactic releases will break due to getting brittle with age. If any of this seems to intimidating, then get someone to help you who is familiar with fuel injected engines or let a shop do it, but that way will cost a lot! Let us know how it goes and what you decide. Russ