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#1 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 238
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I doubt I could move the 3600lbs car while it has jack stands on the front, by turning the motor over, trying to torque the front crank bolt.
![]() I thought that might be the trick. As for the oil line, you're saying that I should remove it from the block? And then when I install, I should put the line on the turbo then reattach it to the block? I bought a rebuilt head, and it has all the studs necessary to bolt everything backup. Whhheeewww..... ![]() |
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#2 |
Lexus & 550's
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: In the shadows
Posts: 506
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on the ground or on stands, in gear w/ ebrake on, the cank bolt torqueing will turn the wheels, the ebrake is not strong enough to hold it.... from my experience...
yes disconect turbo lines from the block...the turbo will come off with the lines attatched to the turbo.. and on the studs, it still may be a good idea to heli coil them as they often pull the threads when you tighten the manifold nuts on the studs.. it can be done with the head on with the right tools, but its definately easier off the car.. |
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#3 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 238
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Hmmmm, would you happen to know how much shops charge for that?
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#4 |
Lexus & 550's
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: In the shadows
Posts: 506
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you mean the heli coils? goto the parts store, they sell a kit, make sure you use the correct kit and the correct drill bit? take a stud or nut w/ you? its easy...just put some tape on the drill bit so you dont go too deep as a reference,
no clue on what shops charge, ususally 45-75 per hour.. i did all mine w/ the head on, in about an hr.. but mine were pulled loose or the threads removed with the stud.. |
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