Having trouble getting motor separated from tranny... - Page 2

rnoswal · 12-14-2005, 10:15 PM

Jp3z, the only bolts on a manual trans are the bell housing and the two things on the side that stabilize the lower part of the engine/trans. There is an inspection plate that has to come off to let it pll past the flywheel. There are no other bolts that have to be removed to separate the two.

On the automatic there are 5 or six bolts that holt the torque converter to the flywheel that makes separating the two easier, but still that is not necessary. You can still pull the torque converter straight out after you separate the engine/trans, so there is nothing holding it in after unbolting.

Like I said before, the output shaft is frozen to the outputshaft bearing in the back of the crank. I bent the back of the crank in my 22R engine slighlty just trying to remove the tranny. I pulled and jerked and swore and pried and finally the bearing pulled out with the output shaft. Everything being done, that is the only thing left and it can be a bitch to separate if they are stuck together, but not impossible.

Get big prybars, keep it close to the ground, but support the middle to keep the two parts as straight as possible. Don't give up, it will separate eventually. The only thing that will break is that pilot shaft bearing.

Good luck

Russ

shawn87gta · 12-16-2005, 01:30 PM

Just one word for anyone else who runs into this problem: porta-power! I'd never used one before, but my dad has one and brought it over for me. For those who may not be familiar with this, it's a hydraulic-jack-like device with different attachments that attach to a hose from the hydraulic cylinder. When you jack it, the attachments are activated for different types of motion. I used a "duckbill" spreader, and went from side to side spreading the motor & tranny apart then driving the wedges down to hold the gap I gained. It took about twenty trips side to side but it finally popped loose. I honestly don't think I would've gotten it without this, the duckbill has "1200 lbs" cast into it so I have to assume it exerts that much force when in use. It was all this thing could do to move the motor, and I was practically lying on top of it to jack it further when it finally popped free. My only concern now is the pressure plate, a few of the "fingers" appear to be slightly bowed out further than the rest of them.

Anyway, thanks to everyone who helped. I'm sure there'll be a few more questions as I proceed...!

j3pz · 12-17-2005, 03:07 AM

i personally would replace the clutch and pressure plate if you havent done so or if it is not new. easy to do it now than after you get it back together. it would suck if you got your motor back in and little later down the road it goes bad.

shawn87gta · 12-17-2005, 05:27 PM

I was told that the clutch assy (and several other parts) was replaced ~10k miles ago when the previous owner replaced a turbo bottom end with a n/a. They blew a piston, tore down the top end far enough to find the damage and stopped working on it. After they stopped on it, a close friend of mine bought it for parts and it sat in his garage for the past few years until I got it. Many of the parts look very low mileage, the turbo, radiator, etc, which makes me believe it was replaced - it looks like they replaced everything you'd expect if they planned to keep the car (obviously they should've researched the correct motor to use...). I have to remove the clutch assy & flywheel from the blown engine anyway so I'll check it before I reuse it.

Jazzsaxsupra · 03-25-2006, 06:58 PM

Personally, I'd just bolt the tranny back on, drain the tranny, pull the driveshaft, disconnect all the wiring/clutch/speedometer stuff, and pull the tranny with the engine... that's what I did when I blew the engine in my supra and had to replace it. If you pull the tranny, beware that you take care of the back-up light switch connector, because they're hard to find if you break them.

jfunez · 05-08-2006, 05:16 AM

retards...... you have to pull the clutch fork from the throwout bearing before attempting to remove the tranny..
on the bell housing there are two covers, remove them and u can see the fork...it has a pin and a "C" clip securing it... remove it an voila.... u r ready..

12-16-2005, 01:30 PM	#12
shawn87gta Stock Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 22	Finally! Just one word for anyone else who runs into this problem: porta-power! I'd never used one before, but my dad has one and brought it over for me. For those who may not be familiar with this, it's a hydraulic-jack-like device with different attachments that attach to a hose from the hydraulic cylinder. When you jack it, the attachments are activated for different types of motion. I used a "duckbill" spreader, and went from side to side spreading the motor & tranny apart then driving the wedges down to hold the gap I gained. It took about twenty trips side to side but it finally popped loose. I honestly don't think I would've gotten it without this, the duckbill has "1200 lbs" cast into it so I have to assume it exerts that much force when in use. It was all this thing could do to move the motor, and I was practically lying on top of it to jack it further when it finally popped free. My only concern now is the pressure plate, a few of the "fingers" appear to be slightly bowed out further than the rest of them. Anyway, thanks to everyone who helped. I'm sure there'll be a few more questions as I proceed...!

12-17-2005, 03:07 AM	#13
j3pz 500whp yet? Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Mechanicsville, MD, US of A, 20659 Posts: 1,060	i personally would replace the clutch and pressure plate if you havent done so or if it is not new. easy to do it now than after you get it back together. it would suck if you got your motor back in and little later down the road it goes bad. __________________ 88 N/A w/ 5spd - stock - not running, bhg 87 turbo/targa w/ 5spd- fidanza light weight flywheel, new oem slave cylinder, apexi air filter, no ac and no heat

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12-14-2005, 10:15 PM	#11
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	Jp3z, the only bolts on a manual trans are the bell housing and the two things on the side that stabilize the lower part of the engine/trans. There is an inspection plate that has to come off to let it pll past the flywheel. There are no other bolts that have to be removed to separate the two. On the automatic there are 5 or six bolts that holt the torque converter to the flywheel that makes separating the two easier, but still that is not necessary. You can still pull the torque converter straight out after you separate the engine/trans, so there is nothing holding it in after unbolting. Like I said before, the output shaft is frozen to the outputshaft bearing in the back of the crank. I bent the back of the crank in my 22R engine slighlty just trying to remove the tranny. I pulled and jerked and swore and pried and finally the bearing pulled out with the output shaft. Everything being done, that is the only thing left and it can be a bitch to separate if they are stuck together, but not impossible. Get big prybars, keep it close to the ground, but support the middle to keep the two parts as straight as possible. Don't give up, it will separate eventually. The only thing that will break is that pilot shaft bearing. Good luck Russ

12-17-2005, 05:27 PM	#14
shawn87gta Stock Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 22	I was told that the clutch assy (and several other parts) was replaced ~10k miles ago when the previous owner replaced a turbo bottom end with a n/a. They blew a piston, tore down the top end far enough to find the damage and stopped working on it. After they stopped on it, a close friend of mine bought it for parts and it sat in his garage for the past few years until I got it. Many of the parts look very low mileage, the turbo, radiator, etc, which makes me believe it was replaced - it looks like they replaced everything you'd expect if they planned to keep the car (obviously they should've researched the correct motor to use...). I have to remove the clutch assy & flywheel from the blown engine anyway so I'll check it before I reuse it.

03-25-2006, 06:58 PM	#15
Jazzsaxsupra Stock Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 14	Personally, I'd just bolt the tranny back on, drain the tranny, pull the driveshaft, disconnect all the wiring/clutch/speedometer stuff, and pull the tranny with the engine... that's what I did when I blew the engine in my supra and had to replace it. If you pull the tranny, beware that you take care of the back-up light switch connector, because they're hard to find if you break them.

05-08-2006, 05:16 AM	#16
jfunez 12psi boost Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: georgia,usa Posts: 338	retards...... you have to pull the clutch fork from the throwout bearing before attempting to remove the tranny.. on the bell housing there are two covers, remove them and u can see the fork...it has a pin and a "C" clip securing it... remove it an voila.... u r ready..