Having trouble getting motor separated from tranny...

rnoswal · 12-11-2005, 11:57 PM

Since it is a manual transmission, there are no bolts holding the two together after all the bellhousing bolts are out. The only thing holding the tow peices together now is the output shaft and the pilot bearing. When these two freeze up together they are a bitch to get apart.

If there is a way to see the input shaft and get some WD40 to drain down to the pilot bearing then maybe you can work it loose a bit at a time, but that means tilting the trans up and the front of the engine down. What you are probably going to have to do is get a couple of prybars and stick them in opposite sides between the housing and the engine block and pry hard together. I had one stuck like that on a 22R racing engine and was really cussing up a storm when it finally came apart.

You don't have to unbolt any of the clutch parts or flywheel, it is just stuck. Maybe the disc is stuck to the output shaft splines.

Let us know.

Russ

j3pz · 12-12-2005, 12:36 AM

well there are such bolts. not only do i say this but another person. me my pop and a bud all tried to get the two apart and spent maybe a whole day without success. next day i go to work, come home and there it is on the engine hoist. my dad said he and my lil bro undid the bolts and it came right off. i doesnt make sense to me either why there would be bolts there but obviously there are. also chiltons says this so... id also like to add i was working on a 87. i dont know if the other years would be diff or not...

kwnate · 12-12-2005, 01:31 AM

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/librar.../mt/MT_05.html

This is how I did it...

j3pz · 12-12-2005, 01:43 AM

btw, nate beautiful car

shawn87gta · 12-14-2005, 09:49 PM

Well, I've tried prying but they're still stuck. I have some steel wedges and tapped them in between the motor & tranny to hold the gap I've gained so far, but I'm leary of continuing to drive them in too hard. I'm debating on it - has anyone done this or have any opinions on whether it would work or not? Is there much risk of damaging the bell housing by doing this? I'm not worried about the motor, I just don't want to tear up the tranny. I also wonder if anyone can tell me how far apart the motor & tranny need to come to completely disengage the input shaft to know if I'm close yet or is there still a ways to go?

Thanks!

rnoswal · 12-14-2005, 10:15 PM

Jp3z, the only bolts on a manual trans are the bell housing and the two things on the side that stabilize the lower part of the engine/trans. There is an inspection plate that has to come off to let it pll past the flywheel. There are no other bolts that have to be removed to separate the two.

On the automatic there are 5 or six bolts that holt the torque converter to the flywheel that makes separating the two easier, but still that is not necessary. You can still pull the torque converter straight out after you separate the engine/trans, so there is nothing holding it in after unbolting.

Like I said before, the output shaft is frozen to the outputshaft bearing in the back of the crank. I bent the back of the crank in my 22R engine slighlty just trying to remove the tranny. I pulled and jerked and swore and pried and finally the bearing pulled out with the output shaft. Everything being done, that is the only thing left and it can be a bitch to separate if they are stuck together, but not impossible.

Get big prybars, keep it close to the ground, but support the middle to keep the two parts as straight as possible. Don't give up, it will separate eventually. The only thing that will break is that pilot shaft bearing.

Good luck

Russ

shawn87gta · 12-16-2005, 01:30 PM

Just one word for anyone else who runs into this problem: porta-power! I'd never used one before, but my dad has one and brought it over for me. For those who may not be familiar with this, it's a hydraulic-jack-like device with different attachments that attach to a hose from the hydraulic cylinder. When you jack it, the attachments are activated for different types of motion. I used a "duckbill" spreader, and went from side to side spreading the motor & tranny apart then driving the wedges down to hold the gap I gained. It took about twenty trips side to side but it finally popped loose. I honestly don't think I would've gotten it without this, the duckbill has "1200 lbs" cast into it so I have to assume it exerts that much force when in use. It was all this thing could do to move the motor, and I was practically lying on top of it to jack it further when it finally popped free. My only concern now is the pressure plate, a few of the "fingers" appear to be slightly bowed out further than the rest of them.

Anyway, thanks to everyone who helped. I'm sure there'll be a few more questions as I proceed...!

Jazzsaxsupra · 03-25-2006, 06:58 PM

Personally, I'd just bolt the tranny back on, drain the tranny, pull the driveshaft, disconnect all the wiring/clutch/speedometer stuff, and pull the tranny with the engine... that's what I did when I blew the engine in my supra and had to replace it. If you pull the tranny, beware that you take care of the back-up light switch connector, because they're hard to find if you break them.

jfunez · 05-08-2006, 05:16 AM

retards...... you have to pull the clutch fork from the throwout bearing before attempting to remove the tranny..
on the bell housing there are two covers, remove them and u can see the fork...it has a pin and a "C" clip securing it... remove it an voila.... u r ready..

12-12-2005, 12:36 AM	#2
j3pz 500whp yet? Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Mechanicsville, MD, US of A, 20659 Posts: 1,060	well there are such bolts. not only do i say this but another person. me my pop and a bud all tried to get the two apart and spent maybe a whole day without success. next day i go to work, come home and there it is on the engine hoist. my dad said he and my lil bro undid the bolts and it came right off. i doesnt make sense to me either why there would be bolts there but obviously there are. also chiltons says this so... id also like to add i was working on a 87. i dont know if the other years would be diff or not... __________________ 88 N/A w/ 5spd - stock - not running, bhg 87 turbo/targa w/ 5spd- fidanza light weight flywheel, new oem slave cylinder, apexi air filter, no ac and no heat Last edited by j3pz; 12-12-2005 at 12:37 AM. Reason: add

12-12-2005, 01:31 AM	#3
kwnate SP58GT Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: USA Posts: 633	http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/librar.../mt/MT_05.html This is how I did it... __________________ Nate

12-12-2005, 01:43 AM	#4
j3pz 500whp yet? Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Mechanicsville, MD, US of A, 20659 Posts: 1,060	btw, nate beautiful car __________________ 88 N/A w/ 5spd - stock - not running, bhg 87 turbo/targa w/ 5spd- fidanza light weight flywheel, new oem slave cylinder, apexi air filter, no ac and no heat

12-16-2005, 01:30 PM	#7
shawn87gta Stock Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 22	Finally! Just one word for anyone else who runs into this problem: porta-power! I'd never used one before, but my dad has one and brought it over for me. For those who may not be familiar with this, it's a hydraulic-jack-like device with different attachments that attach to a hose from the hydraulic cylinder. When you jack it, the attachments are activated for different types of motion. I used a "duckbill" spreader, and went from side to side spreading the motor & tranny apart then driving the wedges down to hold the gap I gained. It took about twenty trips side to side but it finally popped loose. I honestly don't think I would've gotten it without this, the duckbill has "1200 lbs" cast into it so I have to assume it exerts that much force when in use. It was all this thing could do to move the motor, and I was practically lying on top of it to jack it further when it finally popped free. My only concern now is the pressure plate, a few of the "fingers" appear to be slightly bowed out further than the rest of them. Anyway, thanks to everyone who helped. I'm sure there'll be a few more questions as I proceed...!

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12-11-2005, 11:57 PM	#1
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	Since it is a manual transmission, there are no bolts holding the two together after all the bellhousing bolts are out. The only thing holding the tow peices together now is the output shaft and the pilot bearing. When these two freeze up together they are a bitch to get apart. If there is a way to see the input shaft and get some WD40 to drain down to the pilot bearing then maybe you can work it loose a bit at a time, but that means tilting the trans up and the front of the engine down. What you are probably going to have to do is get a couple of prybars and stick them in opposite sides between the housing and the engine block and pry hard together. I had one stuck like that on a 22R racing engine and was really cussing up a storm when it finally came apart. You don't have to unbolt any of the clutch parts or flywheel, it is just stuck. Maybe the disc is stuck to the output shaft splines. Let us know. Russ

12-14-2005, 09:49 PM	#5
shawn87gta Stock Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 22	Well, I've tried prying but they're still stuck. I have some steel wedges and tapped them in between the motor & tranny to hold the gap I've gained so far, but I'm leary of continuing to drive them in too hard. I'm debating on it - has anyone done this or have any opinions on whether it would work or not? Is there much risk of damaging the bell housing by doing this? I'm not worried about the motor, I just don't want to tear up the tranny. I also wonder if anyone can tell me how far apart the motor & tranny need to come to completely disengage the input shaft to know if I'm close yet or is there still a ways to go? Thanks!

12-14-2005, 10:15 PM	#6
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	Jp3z, the only bolts on a manual trans are the bell housing and the two things on the side that stabilize the lower part of the engine/trans. There is an inspection plate that has to come off to let it pll past the flywheel. There are no other bolts that have to be removed to separate the two. On the automatic there are 5 or six bolts that holt the torque converter to the flywheel that makes separating the two easier, but still that is not necessary. You can still pull the torque converter straight out after you separate the engine/trans, so there is nothing holding it in after unbolting. Like I said before, the output shaft is frozen to the outputshaft bearing in the back of the crank. I bent the back of the crank in my 22R engine slighlty just trying to remove the tranny. I pulled and jerked and swore and pried and finally the bearing pulled out with the output shaft. Everything being done, that is the only thing left and it can be a bitch to separate if they are stuck together, but not impossible. Get big prybars, keep it close to the ground, but support the middle to keep the two parts as straight as possible. Don't give up, it will separate eventually. The only thing that will break is that pilot shaft bearing. Good luck Russ

03-25-2006, 06:58 PM	#8
Jazzsaxsupra Stock Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 14	Personally, I'd just bolt the tranny back on, drain the tranny, pull the driveshaft, disconnect all the wiring/clutch/speedometer stuff, and pull the tranny with the engine... that's what I did when I blew the engine in my supra and had to replace it. If you pull the tranny, beware that you take care of the back-up light switch connector, because they're hard to find if you break them.

05-08-2006, 05:16 AM	#9
jfunez 12psi boost Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: georgia,usa Posts: 338	retards...... you have to pull the clutch fork from the throwout bearing before attempting to remove the tranny.. on the bell housing there are two covers, remove them and u can see the fork...it has a pin and a "C" clip securing it... remove it an voila.... u r ready..